corrosion x

[drwayne]

We paint aircraft airframes with the blue/green CX to prevent the acidity in atmosphere from pitting the surface...every 500 hrs airtime they get a tub+scrub+'paint'. Red CX is used inside the airframe in lower dispersal qty.
Doc W

All my Rx/servos/ESC/motors have the blue gunk poured through/over/under .. I even paint the hardware on back .. foolproof, but smelly !
We get it in gallon pots.

[Brushless55]

Is there advantages to the Blue/Green vs Red CX?

[drwayne]

Is there advantages to the Blue/Green vs Red CX?

For almost a decade I used red, now use blue ....no noticable change.

Why did I change ?.. work gets blue in gallon pots, I had to pay for red !
W

[1945dave]

All my Rx/servos/ESC/motors have the blue gunk poured through/over/under .. I even paint the hardware on back .. foolproof, but smelly !
We get it in gallon pots.

Doc please take a few moments to clarify how you actually pour through/over/under our RC items. Do you open the servos, ESC's and receivers to do this and particularly the motors how do you do this and is any area off-limits? In particular with respect to our brushless motors I am worried about affecting balance.,

Dave

[drwayne]

Doc please take a few moments to clarify how you actually pour through/over/under our RC items. Do you open the servos, ESC's and receivers to do this and particularly the motors how do you do this and is any area off-limits? In particular with respect to our brushless motors I am worried about affecting balance.,

Dave

Hmm
Motors:
I puddle a little around the bearing and let sit for a while,, it works it's way in.. spin the shaft.. sit a little longer.
invert motor, start again. If the windings are visible, I spray a little onto them but this always results in fumes for the first few minutes.. so I would spin it up under power whilst the boat is open to allow it to vent.
The internal spray is purely for anticorrosion properties.. the windings themselves are already coated
ESC:
Anything that shows open air components needs to be dunked . I do not remove heatshrink. no need as this stuff gets into everything
I use a catch bucket, and a delivery bucket. hold esc above catch bucket, pour corrosion X through esc... wait a minute.. swap buckets and go again. Let esc hang above catch bucket for at least an hr, then invert esc at leave another hr for thos elast few puddles to ooze out
slimey little bugger.. wipe off exterior so it doesnt slip from your hands, but leave everything inside fully slimed
Receivers :
I pry off the lid and pour through, let the excess drip out for ~30 mins, then reseal
Servos:
I remove access hatch bolts from base.. loosen the gear cover by a little, and then pour through to cover all. Replace gear cover, then fill and cover the base cavity so that it swims in this gunk. Screw it back together. Wipe off excess.
As a rule, it's good anywhere metallic/conductive/corrosive.. but avoid anywhere loctite is used as it does weaken that after time. I wash with acetone any grub screws before loctite to ensure a firm bond. ( collets, flex retainer, etc )

Polypropanol (IsoPropyl alcohol / propan-2-ol / dimethylcarbinol .. the crap doctors use on pre injection swabs .. comes in 600ml from pharmacy or chem stores ) will clean sufficiently to allow epoxy/glue application over previous CX'd areas.

If you're a professional electronics geek ( like me ) and someone hands an esc for repair covered in brushed on stickysh.it electrical tape the price doubles instantly.. if it's covered in that after market potted gear, it's time to start selling your gold ... POA only
This CX guff is simple to deal with.

But you make your own educated choice what to use... chuckle, some my best bottles wine are paid by another's better ideas !!

W

[1945dave]

Hmm
Motors:
I puddle a little around the bearing and let sit for a while,, it works it's way in.. spin the shaft.. sit a little longer.
invert motor, start again. If the windings are visible, I spray a little onto them but this always results in fumes for the first few minutes.. so I would spin it up under power whilst the boat is open to allow it to vent.
The internal spray is purely for anticorrosion properties.. the windings themselves are already coated
ESC:
Anything that shows open air components needs to be dunked . I do not remove heatshrink. no need as this stuff gets into everything
I use a catch bucket, and a delivery bucket. hold esc above catch bucket, pour corrosion X through esc... wait a minute.. swap buckets and go again. Let esc hang above catch bucket for at least an hr, then invert esc at leave another hr for thos elast few puddles to ooze out
slimey little bugger.. wipe off exterior so it doesnt slip from your hands, but leave everything inside fully slimed
Receivers :
I pry off the lid and pour through, let the excess drip out for ~30 mins, then reseal
Servos:
I remove access hatch bolts from base.. loosen the gear cover by a little, and then pour through to cover all. Replace gear cover, then fill and cover the base cavity so that it swims in this gunk. Screw it back together. Wipe off excess.
As a rule, it's good anywhere metallic/conductive/corrosive.. but avoid anywhere loctite is used as it does weaken that after time. I wash with acetone any grub screws before loctite to ensure a firm bond. ( collets, flex retainer, etc )

Polypropanol (IsoPropyl alcohol / propan-2-ol / dimethylcarbinol .. the crap doctors use on pre injection swabs .. comes in 600ml from pharmacy or chem stores ) will clean sufficiently to allow epoxy/glue application over previous CX'd areas.

If you're a professional electronics geek ( like me ) and someone hands an esc for repair covered in brushed on stickysh.it electrical tape the price doubles instantly.. if it's covered in that after market potted gear, it's time to start selling your gold ... POA only
This CX guff is simple to deal with.

But you make your own educated choice what to use... chuckle, some my best bottles wine are paid by another's better ideas !!

W

Thanks Doc.

That post needs to be archived and placed in the referrence files on this forum. Probably the most meaningful post in many moons and worthy of being classified as a learning, teaching tool for Novice and Experts (a has been drip under pressure)

Thanks Again, Now who is going to be the CX distributor?

Dave

[rawsonreyes]

this is an space age technology

hi guys, like the post very much, the little i know about the cx is this was developed for the space industry it not an very simple stuff as it may seem few years ago there were some info about it in the popular science magazine. i have been using it for over six years you guys can look it up for more specs on the contents and use, best thing for rc water sports in years.no more from water if used right.

[properchopper]

FWIW, some C-X and C-XHD data

CXHDdata[1].pdf CXdata.pdf


CXhotsheet_sm.pdf

[drwayne]

Thanks Doc.

That post needs to be archived and placed in the referrence files on this forum. Probably the most meaningful post in many moons and worthy of being classified as a learning, teaching tool for Novice and Experts (a has been drip under pressure)

Thanks Again, Now who is going to be the CX distributor?

Dave

There's an old adage that says 'dont sh.it in your own nest' . and my favorite is ...'help those that help you'..
OffshoreElectrics

Im sure the non aerosol (sounds&smells like arsehole ) is available from his source.. ask !

Red or Blue ? That choice is for you .....

[MR2NR]

We paint aircraft airframes with the blue/green CX to prevent the acidity in atmosphere from pitting the surface...every 500 hrs airtime they get a tub+scrub+'paint'. Red CX is used inside the airframe in lower dispersal qty.
Doc W

All my Rx/servos/ESC/motors have the blue gunk poured through/over/under .. I even paint the hardware on back .. foolproof, but smelly !
We get it in gallon pots.

When I was maintaining airframes (2001) we used LPS-3 on the landing gear wells and the interior metal surfaces. Is Corrosion X the update is there a FAA PMA for it?