How to stop capillary action on stuffing tube?? Water in Hull

[Drax21]

Is it normal for a stinger to have that big of a gap? I have a regular strut on mine so it's flush against the transom. I would think that you should be able to adjust it instead of filling. I would wait till someone with more experience chimes in.

I have flush struts on my cat but on both my Mono's I am able to adjust the whole angle of the strut thus the gap. I don't get the capillary action on the cat but both the Mono's get it so I'm guessing this is the reason. I have filled one with a flexible silicone, which should allow me to adjust the angle anyway.

[carlcisneros]

filling that small gap with silicon works wonders.

I have been using that trick on all my stingered monos now for over 8 years
and have not had any water enter upthe flex shaft. ( either nitor of FE powered hulls.)

[Drax21]

filling that small gap with silicon works wonders.

I have been using that trick on all my stingered monos now for over 8 years
and have not had any water enter upthe flex shaft. ( either nitor of FE powered hulls.)

Thanks for letting me know, 8 years of dry Mono's sounds good! Look forward to running them on the lake and coming back dry inside.

[BHChieftain]

+1 on using silicon between the stinger bracket and the transom

Here's what I did on my son's Triton mono:
http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...c-to-standard)

Chief

[785boats]

I use a short piece of soft silicone tubing that fits tightly into the stinger & over the stuffing tube. A car muffler extension from the LHS works well.
Here's a pic with the piece in the stinger ready for installation & the rest of the extension sitting on the trim tab. The second pic is with the stinger all bolted up. Different Boat, but you get the idea.
But since yours is already assembled the Silicone sealer would be the easiest option. I only offer this suggestion as an option for your next build.

[Drax21]

I use a short piece of soft silicone tubing that fits tightly into the stinger & over the stuffing tube. A car muffler extension from the LHS works well.
Here's a pic with the piece in the stinger ready for installation & the rest of the extension sitting on the trim tab. The second pic is with the stinger all bolted up. Different Boat, but you get the idea.
But since yours is already assembled the Silicone sealer would be the easiest option. I only offer this suggestion as an option for your next build.

I caught on to the next build bit at the end, so there will be another hmmmm Good idea too with the silicone tubing etc, looks a lot neater than my silicon bodge job but still I have had no water in the hull since filling bottom and top parts where the strut/stinger meets the Hull.

[Insaniac]

Pick up some soft plastic vacuum caps from the auto parts store and punch a hole in the end a little smaller than the flex cable. Slide the cap over the flex and onto the end of the stuffing tube. You can use a tie-wrap on the stuffing tube to hold it in place.

[carlcisneros]

785
that is an excellent idea to use.
also keeps the stinger very adjustable to boot.

[JIM MARCUM]

This is a GREAT thread!!! I'm building an Avenger Pro & a Mean Machine & have ordered 3 different types of stinger drives (they're fairly cheap) to see what works best. But I didn't have a clue about how to hook them up to the stuffing tube. Thanks everyone for some great ideas. You saved me a lot trouble & wasted time, not to mention keeping my cats dry & the electronics alive.

Geez, I love OSE!!! JIM

[Drax21]

This is a GREAT thread!!! I'm building an Avenger Pro & a Mean Machine & have ordered 3 different types of stinger drives (they're fairly cheap) to see what works best. But I didn't have a clue about how to hook them up to the stuffing tube. Thanks everyone for some great ideas. You saved me a lot trouble & wasted time, not to mention keeping my cats dry & the electronics alive.

Geez, I love OSE!!! JIM

True that. The first thing I do before I even start on a boat is tell everyone on OSE and ask for Tips. My boats wouldn't be what they are without the help of the OSE members

[Shooter]

Just something I've learned with heat shrink..... There IS a difference. Use the HIGH TEMP (125°C). It holds up incredibly well. Some of my boats have the same heat shrink after 20+ runs with no signs of splitting and no water entry.

[Drax21]

Just something I've learned with heat shrink..... There IS a difference. Use the HIGH TEMP (125°C). It holds up incredibly well. Some of my boats have the same heat shrink after 20+ runs with no signs of splitting and no water entry.

I have found that since the top and bottom part at the back and the hull has been filled with silicon, I have no need for the heat shrink, no water enters but it does work as a good extension of my stuffing tube anyway