Originally posted by Steven Vaccaro
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Y connector using 5.5 bullets.....
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If you have a flaring tool all the better.Originally posted by dasboata View PostI get it now threw the small hole,,,,,, Hmm instead of banging it,,,, how about using a flaring tool to hold them together
I cut the tubing leaving about 1-1.5mm out each end. Then since I dont have a flaring tool, I use a thin cutoff wheel on my dremel tool to slice a notch in each end. This make the fake flare job much easier. When I'm done hammering the ends the notch allows the brass to open and cause the three connectors to come together tightly.Steven Vaccaro
Where Racing on a Budget is a Reality!
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Ok...now you need to make about 499 more of those and 500 female ones and sell them online at OSE!!! lol!!Originally posted by Steven Vaccaro View PostIf you have a flaring tool all the better.
I cut the tubing leaving about 1-1.5mm out each end. Then since I dont have a flaring tool, I use a thin cutoff wheel on my dremel tool to slice a notch in each end. This make the fake flare job much easier. When I'm done hammering the ends the notch allows the brass to open and cause the three connectors to come together tightly.
-Kent
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The idea of the tubing through the connectors is a great one! Thanks for that tip!Mini Cat Racing USA
www.minicatracingusa.com
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The connection is really between each conector making good contact with each other. I would use a bolt and nut and tighten them togther and then solder/braze and remove the bolt.
Seems that would hold well...hight temp solder is key so if they do get really hot then they would not fall apart...I have some low temp brazing wire as well for this that would take over 1000 degrees to make them come part. Something else will burn first.
I will make some this afternoon as well and try it. Could just leave the bolt in it as long as the wire will go in and solder well.
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Steve's idea
Also if your boat hasn't much room, you could before clamping, angle each connector different to match the tight area in boat. Each situation or boat may be different, so you could resolder to match the wire routing . The T combo in certain boats will work great and others it won't. Neat idea of Steve's. Beats my Big Y connector cables.
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What would keep the bolt from being soldered in there too?
Originally posted by Jeff Wohlt View PostThe connection is really between each conector making good contact with each other. I would use a bolt and nut and tighten them togther and then solder/braze and remove the bolt.
Seems that would hold well...hight temp solder is key so if they do get really hot then they would not fall apart...I have some low temp brazing wire as well for this that would take over 1000 degrees to make them come part. Something else will burn first.
I will make some this afternoon as well and try it. Could just leave the bolt in it as long as the wire will go in and solder well.Mini Cat Racing USA
www.minicatracingusa.com
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I just used the same wire that doorbell buttons are wired with (I'm friends with a couple of electricians)...just used about a foot of it to work with (you just have to strip the covering off of it)...then wrap it around the two wires to be soldered together. Just make sure you bend the wrapped wire ends in so that nothing is poking out after it's all soldered together.Originally posted by kola View PostSorry but what 10 ga copper wire do you use?
Peice of cake!
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