I just used the same wire that doorbell buttons are wired with (I'm friends with a couple of electricians)...just used about a foot of it to work with (you just have to strip the covering off of it)...then wrap it around the two wires to be soldered together. Just make sure you bend the wrapped wire ends in so that nothing is poking out after it's all soldered together.
The connection is really between each conector making good contact with each other. I would use a bolt and nut and tighten them togther and then solder/braze and remove the bolt.
Seems that would hold well...hight temp solder is key so if they do get really hot then they would not fall apart...I have some low temp brazing wire as well for this that would take over 1000 degrees to make them come part. Something else will burn first.
I will make some this afternoon as well and try it. Could just leave the bolt in it as long as the wire will go in and solder well.
Also if your boat hasn't much room, you could before clamping, angle each connector different to match the tight area in boat. Each situation or boat may be different, so you could resolder to match the wire routing . The T combo in certain boats will work great and others it won't. Neat idea of Steve's. Beats my Big Y connector cables.
The connection is really between each conector making good contact with each other. I would use a bolt and nut and tighten them togther and then solder/braze and remove the bolt.
Seems that would hold well...hight temp solder is key so if they do get really hot then they would not fall apart...I have some low temp brazing wire as well for this that would take over 1000 degrees to make them come part. Something else will burn first.
I will make some this afternoon as well and try it. Could just leave the bolt in it as long as the wire will go in and solder well.
I cut the tubing leaving about 1-1.5mm out each end. Then since I dont have a flaring tool, I use a thin cutoff wheel on my dremel tool to slice a notch in each end. This make the fake flare job much easier. When I'm done hammering the ends the notch allows the brass to open and cause the three connectors to come together tightly.
Ok...now you need to make about 499 more of those and 500 female ones and sell them online at OSE!!! lol!!
I get it now threw the small hole,,,,,, Hmm instead of banging it,,,, how about using a flaring tool to hold them together
If you have a flaring tool all the better.
I cut the tubing leaving about 1-1.5mm out each end. Then since I dont have a flaring tool, I use a thin cutoff wheel on my dremel tool to slice a notch in each end. This make the fake flare job much easier. When I'm done hammering the ends the notch allows the brass to open and cause the three connectors to come together tightly.
I use k&s brass tubing. Slide the brass though all the holes. Hammer the k&s end so it opens up and tightens them all together. Then solder. This gives both a "glued/soldered" connection and a "mechanical" connection.
I get it now threw the small hole,,,,,, Hmm instead of banging it,,,, how about using a flaring tool to hold them together
ME 2 I am not following you !! The part about hamming them ??
What Steve is saying is the bullet connectors have holes in their sides. Both the male and female. Since the solder arraingement is to have them laid along side each other you align those holes in each bullet with the tubing running thru all 3 pieces. With his method you "flare" or crimp the ends of the tubing to draw the 3 bullets closer to each other. In other words,.......the tubing sticking out of the 2 end bullets is where you use your dikes to cut the tubing. Or take a hammer and flare the 2 ends as described. Either way you do the same thing.
I like a solid conductor running between my 3 bullets. Thats why I use the 10ga wire. To each his own. We both use a mechanical reinforcement method to retain the bullets together in conjunction to the solder.
I was planning on brazing mine. Wonder if a little arctic silver would be good between those?
The connectors look and feel like cast with a gold plating, I think brazing might be too hot and melt the castings but LMK I have some silver soilder and rods here Chris
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