What can possibly go wrong with this set up???

[LiPo Power]

Hi
May I please ask what screws are you referring to?
Motor is mounted with wrap around style mount straight to the railings.
No screws are going in at all.
See picture.
I suspect there was something wrong with wiring inside the motor from factory plus the shaft had a little in and out play and I think for this motor that is a little weird.
My last motor had no play on bearings at all... That could create vibration and who knows what was going on inside of it at RPM....

MarkF brought up an interesting point in the FS thread. Did you check the length of the screws used to mount the motor?

[LiPo Power]

Thanks Mike
Correct me if I am wrong.
Do I understand Hydra 240 LV would do better job here?
Robert

I will be honest with you, I do not think that 240a HV Swordfish can run on 4 and 5s setups. I think the high kv demands of those setups reveal some issues with the 240 amperage ability of the controller, where the lower kv/ higher voltage setups mask its 240 amp ability since you are probably pulling 150amps or less with 6s or higher. The reason I say this, I had two of these esc's, one on 4s2p, and the other on 5s2p. The 4s2p setup ran around for 1 or so laps, and toasted, and that was on a 1515 1y castle, the 5s2p was with a 1518 1y castle and the controller got so hot, I discontinued using it. I put back in the controllers I was running before the changeover (a turnigy 180a and hydra 240a lv), and the boats went right back out, ran fine, no heat issues. These setups were on my tunnel hulls, which run WAY more efficiently than monos. I have heard of great success with this controller on the higher voltage/ lower amp draws tho, but this sounds like an issue that is rearing it ugly head. Also, Doug Smock recently explained D winds vs. Y winds, and D wings are hell on esc's.....

[johnf]

Hi
May I please ask what screws are you referring to?
Motor is mounted with wrap around style mount straight to the railings.
No screws are going in at all.
See picture.
I suspect there was something wrong with wiring inside the motor from factory plus the shaft had a little in and out play and I think for this motor that is a little weird.
My last motor had no play on bearings at all... That could create vibration and who knows what was going on inside of it at RPM....

OH, I didn't realize that is how the motor was mounted. Well, that rules that out.

Hope Neu takes care of you here.

[cybercrxt]

Robert, I would strongly consider a hydra 240lv. I don't know about the updated version of the swordfish as my two, were two of the originals, so maybe the problem is fixed. I switched to the castle ice controllers for a couple big applications, and even air cooled they might be the ticket. I did get a reply back from Castle today, the Hydra Ice controllers are done being tested, and out for production. He did not have a release date yet, but it will be soon I suspect. If they are as good as their air cooled version, I suspect everyone will want one! Mike

[LiPo Power]

Mike
I am a very good Castle Hydra liker.
In the past I lost couple of them also for who knows what reason. That and many other peoples feedback and expirience on them made me go the other direction... :-)
Who knows, maybe I will be back on board with Castle new controllers. Lets see how much the new watercooled ice will be....
Thank You
Robert

Robert, I would strongly consider a hydra 240lv. I don't know about the updated version of the swordfish as my two, were two of the originals, so maybe the problem is fixed. I switched to the castle ice controllers for a couple big applications, and even air cooled they might be the ticket. I did get a reply back from Castle today, the Hydra Ice controllers are done being tested, and out for production. He did not have a release date yet, but it will be soon I suspect. If they are as good as their air cooled version, I suspect everyone will want one! Mike

[cybercrxt]

Robert,

You know, in most cases, when I have seen people complain about burning up a hydra ESC, it usually ends up being something the user did or the crazy setup they were running, especially with the 240 and 120 lv's. Now, the 240HV, that is just another situation where the controller itself is just plain bad. But the low volt hydras, in all honesty, I have only ever lost one, and that was during a SAW event. I got in a hurry trying to get the boat in the water due to low wind, and I plugged one of my leads in backwards for a split second before I realized what I did, and it was over! Totally my fault. Other than that, I have beat on my 240lv in my 36" woodstuff tunnel, running 67mph in heat trim, 5s2p, and its been a great controller. I used a hydra120 lv in a whip 20, again, great controller. I still have both of them actually! Good luck with everything! Mike

[LiPo Power]

...great staff, thanks...
BDW, do you have one I can buy it off you??? 240LV that is....
Great info Mike....

Robert

Robert,

You know, in most cases, when I have seen people complain about burning up a hydra ESC, it usually ends up being something the user did or the crazy setup they were running, especially with the 240 and 120 lv's. Now, the 240HV, that is just another situation where the controller itself is just plain bad. But the low volt hydras, in all honesty, I have only ever lost one, and that was during a SAW event. I got in a hurry trying to get the boat in the water due to low wind, and I plugged one of my leads in backwards for a split second before I realized what I did, and it was over! Totally my fault. Other than that, I have beat on my 240lv in my 36" woodstuff tunnel, running 67mph in heat trim, 5s2p, and its been a great controller. I used a hydra120 lv in a whip 20, again, great controller. I still have both of them actually! Good luck with everything! Mike

[cybercrxt]

Naw, I actually need to order another one for a 27" outboard tunnel 2s2p SAW project I am working on for November IMPBA record trials. I am looking for the boat to do around 65mph. Mike

[Doug Smock]

Robert,
I tried to send you a PM in reference to the first pic. in post 31, but for some reason it isn't working for me.
It is important on the Hydra 240 controls that the two red leads and the two black leads be connected to the "entire'' battery pack. What you have done for paralleling if fine but the wires need to be connected back at the control.

http://www.castlecreations.com/support/documents/hydra_user_guide.pdf

See pics.
Doug

[LiPo Power]

Doug
I do not have any Castle controllers at this time.
I will do that IF I get one in the future. Maybe the new ones are going to be like that out of the box.
Robert

[Doby]

Robert,
I tried to send you a PM in reference to the first pic. in post 31, but for some reason it isn't working for me.
It is important on the Hydra 240 controls that the two red leads and the two black leads be connected to the "entire'' battery pack. What you have done for paralleling if fine but the wires need to be connected back at the control.

http://www.castlecreations.com/support/documents/hydra_user_guide.pdf

See pics.
Doug

It still amazes me that Castle does not do that at the factory if its so important.

[LiPo Power]

What about this....?
My last lost motor had a shaft IN and OUT play....
Would that contribute to the fact that was gone???
Also, some people are saying winding wire coating today is not as good as it was a while back, is it???
Thanks again
Robert

[BakedMopar]

My 1521 1.5d has a little end play. In twenty plus years I have never had a motor that was tight.