I need Shockwave 26 help

[evofan74]

Can someone help please! Sorry not trying to hijack the thread though, but.... I bought a shockwave 26 a week ago and bought a 7 cell intellet 3600 batt to go with it at my trusty hooby shop. Ran the boat once and in about 5 min it almost stopped completely but I was able to get it to limp back to the edge of the pond. The motor was very hot so I let it sit. The net day I ran it again and after a few min it stopped and wouldn't work at all even after cooling down. So i took it back to the hobby store and got a new one today. They are cool because I bought a villain ex from them and have had no overheating probs running two 7 cells.

Talking with the tech at the shop who seems very knowledgeable I told him I read about these stock motors being crap so he recommended a traxxas titan 550 like I have in my Ex but he didn't have any. So I bought a 19 tun trinity chameleon motor. SAme can size so I just swapped it out as soon as I got home and reinstalled my deans plugs. Now I run the boat for about 4 min again, slow for about a min or so to break in the motor and then progressively got faster. After about 4 min the boat starting acting up. I got it to shore and smelled heat. the motor and esc were warm but ok, BUT THE DRIVE SHAFT WAS SIZZLING!! I licked my finger and touched it and the wetness actually audibly sizzled! This was the first run of 4 min.!!!! Is there something wring with the driveshat setup in these boats stock? Are they not greased from factory? Please help, sorry so long.

[saleens7]

probably the 22 turn.....you will want more torque as you are running a somwhat large prop for a 600 sized brushes motor....

[Maggster]

How much clearance do I need between the prop and the bottom of the rudder bracket? I now have about 2-3mm.

Should I be looking at the
19 TURN or the
22 TURN ?

[saleens7]

i ran a 600plane motor (very torquey).....but it doesent spin as much rpms....it should work better w/ the larger prop you have on it...you might want to move the rudder a little lower then...

[Maggster]

It turned out to be the motor. I unhooked the motor and plugged another motor into the esc and it ran fine. I had a motor that I took out of a cordless drill that I knew was a high torque motor, so I put that in just to check it out. Now this motor is older than dirt and basically worn out. There is a lot of slop in the bushings, but in spite of that, the boat is probably twice as fast as it was. The only two problems I had were cavitation, and no coolant flow. If I held the front of the boat and throttled up there was no water flow. If I held the front and pushed the back lower into the water, I did get water flow. I have no idea how to fix that other than getting a new water pickup????

What motor would you recommend for this boat with the stock esc? I see the airplane 600 motors are about 1/2 of what the Graupners run, but they are bushing motors. I am pretty sure I don't want anything bigger than a 600.

I forgot the camera when I went to the lake. I'll try to get some video tomorrow.

Thanks so much for all the help. I was getting pretty frustrated with the whole thing.

[saleens7]

you were probably cavitating.....try tossing it in the water when you launch it.....you might also want to re-position the batt in front of the motor.....when you look at where the batt and motor are mounted in the hull, they are near the middle of the hull....normally, your supposed to have the CoG around 30%....

[Maggster]

OK, that didn't work so well. I tried the 40.5mm prop first. THe boat would barely go, so I brought it in and put the 45mm prop on it. It still acted very doggy. Wouldn't plane and was slower than before. The nose was definitely riding higher though. Then the motor quit responding. I brought it in and checked it the motor was pretty hot and smelled burned. I have no idea how many runs are on it since I got it used. AARRGGHH!

Not sure what to do next. I'll probably check the esc with another motor from one of my cars just to make sure it is the motor and not the esc.

[Maggster]

I hope to test it tomorrow after church. I'll let you know how it goes.

Thanks so much for the help.

[saleens7]

looks alot better now....the water pickup on the rudder should work better also as its designed to be a prop wash type pickup...

[Maggster]

OK, here is an update with where it is right now. I pulled the thrust washer out of the strudder and put it between the coupler and the motor. Hopefully that will do the trick for now. Here are a few pics.

[saleens7]

but he doesent need a 5mm thrust bearing. he needs a 1/8" one....

[saleens7]

oh, you mean that....yes, you should get a thrust bearing....

[Maggster]

Actually there isn't one of those on my boat. The prop threads to the shaft, the shaft hooks to the coupler, the coupler hooks to the motor. Thats it. Is the motor designed to take the thrust?

I looked at the strudder and it looks like the white plastic washer is designed to take the thrust there, but mine doesn't have that.

[Flying Scotsman]

im not quite understanding your question.....what do you mean as thrust up to the motor/coupler?

He is asking about this item Product ID: dh-53136
5mm Thrust Bearing Details

This bearing will reduce motor heat by removing the pressure from the rear motor housing bearing in a brushed or brushless motor.

This will fit most motors with a 5mm output shaft, including the Feigao, Nemesis, AquaCraft SuperVee and 700 motors with 5mm shafts.
Price: $6.69

This is from the OSE site

Doug

[saleens7]

It sure looks to me like yours rides with the nose higher. I have cut the bottom of the hull off where the tube used to come out (what is that called anyway). I just need to epoxy that and then put the new tube in.

Another question. I don't see anything in this driveline to take the thrust up to the motor/coupler joint. Is that OK?

im not quite understanding your question.....what do you mean as thrust up to the motor/coupler?