Originally posted by DISAR
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Bad day.Smoked esc, cracked motor
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OK.
I have the MGM 25035 z-series and so far no problem. I definately agree to buy a good one from the start instead of messing around.Twin Cat 135, Sprintcat40 (single-twin), DF 35", Maritimo, Mean Machine, SV 27
http://www.rcfastboats.com/
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I use this stuff. A LOT cheaper and works great.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Epoxy...d=p3911.c0.m14Mini Cat Racing USA
www.minicatracingusa.com
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some informative videos here about using their products
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/EPOXY...=p4506.c0.m245Mini Cat Racing USA
www.minicatracingusa.com
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There are E series, and Z series ESCs. I'm running either 6S1P or 6S2P sport run setup with atleast 50+ mph range. So which esc would work with Neu 1521 1.5y.Originally posted by DISAR View PostOK.
I have the MGM 25035 z-series and so far no problem. I definately agree to buy a good one from the start instead of messing around.
This guy on Youtube is running with a NEU 1521 1y, prop M445, 6S2P. I''m wondering which esc he is running with. Check out the video.
This guy is running KB45 1200rpm, Turnigy 100amp HV. (I have a brand new Turnigy 100amp HV 2-12 Lipo , and Pistix)
Last edited by Tony; 08-26-2009, 10:25 PM.
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Found one. Will this do?Originally posted by sailr View PostTony, not sure where you are, but most auto parts stores have a 'body repair' section. They usually have fiberglass cloth. You are much better off, however, using carbon fiber cloth. Expensive but worth it!
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...=STRK:MEWAX:ITLast edited by Tony; 08-26-2009, 10:21 PM.
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The E and Z series have the same particulars, the only difference is that the Z-series is compatible with the black box (better to use eagle tree).Originally posted by Tony View PostThere are E series, and Z series ESCs. I'm running either 6S1P or 6S2P sport run setup with atleast 50+ mph range. So which esc would work with Neu 1521 1.5y.
This guy on Youtube is running with a NEU 1521 1y, prop M445, 6S2P. I''m wondering which esc he is running with. Check out the video.
This guy is running KB45 1200rpm, Turnigy 100amp HV. (I have a brand new Turnigy 100amp HV 2-12 Lipo , and Pistix)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wr7KhR4Ixw0&NR=1
If you are running 6s for me it is better to have an ESC rated for 8s. Please read this (takes some time)
Do not believe what you see in youtube or even here sometimes. Maybe the setup runs great for 2-3 times and then takes video etc.. but when the damage happens in the next run nobody knows it.
The 1521 1.5 Y is 1050kv, on 22.2V , 23,000 rpm theoretical. Seem a bit low for the 50mph range. I do not know this hull very much maybe somebody will come in.Last edited by DISAR; 08-27-2009, 05:46 AM.Twin Cat 135, Sprintcat40 (single-twin), DF 35", Maritimo, Mean Machine, SV 27
http://www.rcfastboats.com/
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............................
Necessity is the mother of invention.............
Youtube Video's http://www.youtube.com/user/Titanis2000
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Found this in RRR, NEU 1521 1.5y, 8s2p, 442 Turnigy 100amp HV 2-12 Lipo . Better to contact him, if this setup is OK you can use your ESC and get the rest.
Twin Cat 135, Sprintcat40 (single-twin), DF 35", Maritimo, Mean Machine, SV 27
http://www.rcfastboats.com/
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NEU 1521 1.5y is out of stock. OSE has 1521 1y in stock at the moment.Originally posted by DISAR View PostFound this in RRR, NEU 1521 1.5y, 8s2p, 442 Turnigy 100amp HV 2-12 Lipo . Better to contact him, if this setup is OK you can use your ESC and get the rest.
http://www.rumrunnerracing.com/fefor...light=maritimo
Thanks for the link.
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I have a cat that I had FDM assemble. After looking at your pics I took a look at mine.
The JB weld was starting to lift from the hull. So I sanded the whole area and took some epoxy and fiberglassed the whole thing down. Your mishap just prevented me from having one. Just wished you had of caught yours before this happened.Government Moto:
"Why fix it? Blame someone else for breaking it."
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I would have sand it off and epoxy the mount area had i known JB weld was just junk. Anyways, what epoxy and fiberglass are you using?Originally posted by domwilson View PostI have a cat that I had FDM assemble. After looking at your pics I took a look at mine.
The JB weld was starting to lift from the hull. So I sanded the whole area and took some epoxy and fiberglassed the whole thing down. Your mishap just prevented me from having one. Just wished you had of caught yours before this happened.
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Fine weave glass and 30 min epoxy. Feels real solid now. Tried pulling the mount. It's stuck in there real good now. I think if I tried to pull it out, I'd probably break the hull.Government Moto:
"Why fix it? Blame someone else for breaking it."
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The JB Weld is probably good stuff in it's own right. What I suspect is the cause of the weld breaking away from the hull is zero preparation by the builder.
When epoxy resin cures there's a chemical (I can't remember the name) that rises to the surface & is sort of like a wax or sheen. This needs to be removed before over coating with more epoxy resin or adhesives. All that is required is a scotchbright pad & hot water. Make sure it is dried completely(hairdrier) before overcoating or glueing. I also then wipe it with a cloth dipped in acetone first.
I also do the same procedure with polyester resins too.
Cheers.
Paul.See the danger. THEN DO IT ANYWAY!!!
http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...hp?albumid=319
http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...hp?albumid=320
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If you want maximum adhesion with JBweld once its mixed and setting in the boat heat it with a hair drier to about 175 to 200 degree's . It turns to a watery consistancy and absorbs a lot better into the hull below . the bond will be way strongerNecessity is the mother of invention.............
Youtube Video's http://www.youtube.com/user/Titanis2000
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