Bad day.Smoked esc, cracked motor

[Tony]

So the actually motor mount isn't the problem? Try some 2 ton epoxy.

The motor mount is fine, just got ripped off of the boat.

[Tony]

Ok guys here are the pics.

[AntronX]

Battery wires are long. You could flip your batteries around with their wires facing forward and much closer to your controller and shorten them by half. Also, get 5.5mm connectors for batteries. I would even get 8mm OSE ones. I like how they slide in together easier. Also, what gauge battery and controller wires are? Can you check if you capacitors have bulged out? Look at the side opposite where wire leads used to be on them. Take few close up pictures if you can. I wonder if your controller fried first and taken your motor out too.

[DISAR]

Let me agree that wires are too long. First thing I suspect is your ESC, Chinese 180A for 37" boat on 6s- No WAY. These ESCs like the HM 200A are for smaller boats.
About your cracked magnet I do not know, the 580L motors have good comments until now. Maybe because the motor touches the hull it vibrated a lot and boom.
I have lost many Chinese ESCs but motors are OK.

What I would do is:

a) Reinforce the hull in the motor mount area if it flexes a lot
b) Use a different motor mount like the below and support also the back side of the motor (your stuffing tube might need a re-make!)
http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...od=ose-drmount
or
http://cgi.ebay.com/motor-mount-for-...4.c0.m14.l1262
c) If you can afford buy a NEU 1521 1Y
d) You will need a good quality ESC min. for 8s (Schulze,MGM)

Big Boats = Big Money
I found the hard way too.

[Tony]

Let me agree that wires are too long. First thing I suspect is your ESC, Chinese 180A for 37" boat on 6s- No WAY. These ESCs like the HM 200A are for smaller boats.
About your cracked magnet I do not know, the 580L motors have good comments until now. Maybe because the motor touches the hull it vibrated a lot and boom.
I have lost many Chinese ESCs but motors are OK.

What I would do is:

a) Reinforce the hull in the motor mount area if it flexes a lot
b) Use a different motor mount like the below and support also the back side of the motor (your stuffing tube might need a re-make!)
http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...od=ose-drmount
or
http://cgi.ebay.com/motor-mount-for-...4.c0.m14.l1262
c) If you can afford buy a NEU 1521 1Y
d) You will need a good quality ESC min. for 8s (Schulze,MGM)

Big Boats = Big Money
I found the hard way too.

First of all, I've been running feigao motors with Etti esc, no problems. As for this setup. I was told Etti 150 or S/K 180 amp would be fine with the 580 10L motor....

a) Reinforce the hull with fibre glass, or epoxie?
b)remake stuffing tube. Do you mean straighten the entry angle?
c) NEU 1521 1Y seems like the motor to go with at this point.
d) where do i find the Schulze, MGM esc?

What are my other alternatives , IF i can't get NEU 1521, and the Schulze, MGM esc? Will Etti 150 do
e)shorten the batt wires in half?

[Tony]

Battery wires are long. You could flip your batteries around with their wires facing forward and much closer to your controller and shorten them by half. Also, get 5.5mm connectors for batteries. I would even get 8mm OSE ones. I like how they slide in together easier. Also, what gauge battery and controller wires are? Can you check if you capacitors have bulged out? Look at the side opposite where wire leads used to be on them. Take few close up pictures if you can. I wonder if your controller fried first and taken your motor out too.

ESC:10 awg batt wires , 10awg controller wires to motor.
Batt: 10awg
Capacitor did not bulged out.

However, i made the Y connectors between the esc, and batt wires with 1" long12 awg wires.

ESC=10awg----Y connectors=12awg----10awg=batt

[Flying Scotsman]

Let .
About your cracked magnet I do not know, the 580L motors have good comments until now. Maybe because the motor touches the hull it vibrated a lot and boom.
I have lost many Chinese ESCs but motors are OK.

I found the hard way too.

Tony, that is a good point about the motor vibration and as has been previously mentioned the H&M large cat hulls flex a lot at where you mount the motor and require some method to take the flex out.
Great looking boat

Douggie

[domwilson]

I think that is why FDM applies so much JB weld to the tunnel floor. Except, the JB Weld cracks and doesn't adhere to the fiberglass that well. Mine started doing the same thing.

[Tony]

Tony, that is a good point about the motor vibration and as has been previously mentioned the H&M large cat hulls flex a lot at where you mount the motor and require some method to take the flex out.
Great looking boat

Douggie

Douggie,
Comes to think of it. That could be why the motor mount was ripped out of the boat. Do you think aplying a layer of fibre glass would take care of the flex area? If so, you know where i can get some f/g? Yea, i like this boat. It ran really nice till the magic smoke came out.

[Tony]

I think that is why FDM applies so much JB weld to the tunnel floor. Except, the JB Weld cracks and doesn't adhere to the fiberglass that well. Mine started doing the same thing.

Will epoxie adhere better to fiberglass? I used 5min epoxie on my other cat, but it was on wood. Good stuff. You would have to dremel it off.

[Tony]

Douggie,
Comes to think of it. That could be why the motor mount was ripped out of the boat. Do you think aplying a layer of fibre glass would take care of the flex area? If so, you know where i can get some f/g? Yea, i like this boat. It ran really nice till the magic smoke came out.

Found it. http://cgi.ebay.com/Fiberglass-cloth...d=p3911.c0.m14

[Flying Scotsman]

I just used a thin sheet of aircraft quality plywood at that area on my H&M Supercat M1, but there are better methods today...carbon fibre etc

Douggie

[sailr]

Use a longer setting epoxy. It is much stronger and not as brittle as the 5 minute stuff. I use 30 min. or 1 hour cure epoxy. Clean the fiberglass off really well with some denatured alcohol, rough up the area a bit, and then epoxy away. It will hold quite well. A lot of hulls are made now with epoxy resin rather than polyester resin so do NOT use anything polyester based, like Bondo. It will soften the epoxy resin in the hull. You can always put epoxy over polyester and epoxy. No worries.

Will epoxie adhere better to fiberglass? I used 5min epoxie on my other cat, but it was on wood. Good stuff. You would have to dremel it off.

[sailr]

Tony, not sure where you are, but most auto parts stores have a 'body repair' section. They usually have fiberglass cloth. You are much better off, however, using carbon fiber cloth. Expensive but worth it!

[DISAR]

This the correct way as described above. 1 hour setting epoxy with carbon or carbon-aramid fibre on the area of the motor mount and around. If it still flexes (wait to dry first) apply second layer. Materials example from e-bay
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Epoxy...ltDomainQ5f100
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Carbo...ltDomainQ5f100

Schulze ESCs

http://www.schulze-elektronik-gmbh.de/index_uk.htm

MGM ESCs

http://mgm-compro.com/index.php?cat=brushless-speed-controllers-for-race-boats

USA dealer (I think)

http://www.icare-rc.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=24

If you put a different motor mount where the motor is at an angle you will probably have to remake the stuffing tube. I do not know if the ETTI can do it on 6s you can try it but be prepared. A hydra HV180 or 240 is another solution.