The SQUID motor

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  • raptor347
    Fast Electric Addict!
    • Jul 2007
    • 1086

    #16
    The parts kit for the HyperCo motors ran ~$600 each in '96 dollars. Very expensive, but they did help the US win the F5B WC in 1998.

    The silver windings are only useful when you're trying to get the last percent of efficiency out of a system. I know Tenshock is offering silver wire in a couple of their NAVIGA specific motors.

    Tightening up the air gap definitely improves efficiency. We used to fine tune torque curves in our F5D motors with different diameter rotors. We only had two props available at the time, so it was a case of tuning to the props. I had a half dozen rotors in .005" diameter steps.

    Fun times, back when we had to build everything. Took some serious dedication to get to WC level performance.


    I wonder if you could build a TP3650 down at 60mm length if all the ties were outside the can. I know it could be done with a TP3640.
    Last edited by raptor347; 05-12-2020, 02:26 PM. Reason: Added info
    Brian "Snowman" Buaas
    Team Castle Creations
    NAMBA FE Chairman

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    • donhuff
      Senior Member
      • Dec 2014
      • 561

      #17
      I went to the AMA nats one year 99 or 2000, and managed to win controline aerobatics Beginners class. But We stayed for several days watching all the different stuff going on there, and was amazed at the extent some folks were going to, to get to that level. And the nats is still a long way from World Cup level.

      We got to see a few controline speed F2A guys run. Wowzer, those little 15s turning 38,000 rpm on FAI fuel, sounded awsome. And they are as fast and usually faster than the AMA classes can run, using 70% nitro. Like you said, lots of dedication to get to that level, in any WC class. I didn't see any electrics when I was there.

      You might could do a TP like that and cram it into the short case. But I don't fool with the TP brand because they do not insulate the stator with an epoxy coating like most do. They put silicone sleeves down through the slots instead. And when you unwind one of them, all the stator plates will fall apart and make a mess that's almost impossible to get back together and rewind.
      AmpDaddy
      don huff

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      • raptor347
        Fast Electric Addict!
        • Jul 2007
        • 1086

        #18
        I haven't torn a TP down that far, interesting.

        If you built a stacking tool, you could assemble stacks to what ever length you need. i would bet that the coating isn't epoxy but powder coat. That was the what was used in the aveox stacks.

        All the fun of building monster motors.
        Brian "Snowman" Buaas
        Team Castle Creations
        NAMBA FE Chairman

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        • donhuff
          Senior Member
          • Dec 2014
          • 561

          #19
          Yes if you went that far with it to make a stacking tool it might be easier to do the TP.

          I use powder coat when I redo my stators. I use the regular paint but I know there is an Epoxy powder out there too that works like the powder paint. Some of the guys coating cast bullets use the epoxy system. I use the powder paint, out of an electrostatic gun, to coat my bullets. I use a small fluid bed when coating the stators, I couldn't get the electrostatic gun to get the paint down in the slots that well.

          I think that the coating on most of the cheap chinese motors is a polyester resin like gel coat, sure smells like it when you sand on one.

          Ah yes, monster motors. I follow the hot rodders Golden Rule, only now it's ROTOR displacement (diameter x length) that I seek, instead of cylinder displacement.
          AmpDaddy
          don huff

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