The SQUID motor

[donhuff]

I forget what I was going to name this motor. But as soon as my son Lamar saw a picture of it, he came back with a picture of a giant squid, and the motor was named a THE SQUID motor!!!!!!!


DSC_0055.jpg

[ray schrauwen]

Nice!

[T.S.Davis]

So ahhhhh......you got some splain'n to do Lucy.

[HUFFRACING]

Question: What do you get when you "let the smoke out" or FRY a Squid motor?

Answer: Calamari!

Actually we don't know... the smoke seems to stay in these squid motors!

Later,
Lamar

[jaike5]

Yes, an explanation. Like an ingredients list, and method in detail! lots of pics too!!
cheers, Jay.

[T.S.Davis]

I just want to know "what fer?"

[donhuff]

Jay, It's the same motors that we usually use.

Terry, To make more room on the inside, I moved the connections to the outside. And because it looks so danged cool.

[T.S.Davis]

Got it. I clearly need to make a trip to Huntsville with some go straight and 2 lap boats. haha I could bring the hired gun.

[donhuff]

Yes come on down to Huntsville for some record running. And remember, my youngest son owns a brewpub there. A free beer for record winners!

[TRUCKPULL]

Don

I understand a 2D motor or a 4D motor,
What is a 4DDD motor??

Larry

[donhuff]

FINALLY some body noticed that. Thanks Larry.


In the DDD or YYY type of wind, you wire each individual coil by it's self, and run the leads out. So wrap 3 turns around a coil and cut the exit LEAD same length as the entrance LEAD. Now using a new wire, wrap 3 turns on the second coil and exit. Now do the third the same way.

Were going to do just one lead now to show how it works. We ca add the other two leads and 6 coils after were done with this one.

So now bring all the START leads and twist them together, and now all the FINISH leads and twist them together separate from the start lead, so that we have just two leads like if we did all three coils with one bundle like normal.

Do the same thing with the #2 set of three coils, and then the #3 set of coils.

So now we will have 6 leads sticking out of the stator, like on the normal wind. These leads will not necessarily be in the same order as they are in the normal wind unless you were very careful and planned ahead. Notice that one of the squids is color coded and the other is numbered. That's how I kept up with which lead was what. I did it on the 2 delta also because with 18 individual leads sticking out, you better know which one goes where!!!

So you see from that mess, that on each leg we have 3 coils wired individually per leg.


The reason for this is, lets say that we wound a motor in 2 delta and it's kv was not as high as we want to get the rpm that we want. Thats because in the normal 2D wind, we actually have 3 coils wired in a series, per leg. And that means that we actually have 6 turns PER LEG, 3 coils X 2 turns apiece =6 total turns per leg.

A 2 turn, is as low a turn count as will work, 1 turn don't work, and if it did it would decrease the wire length by 50%, and would raise the kv the same amount or a little more.

And now lets say that the lead on that 2 turn bundle above, has a length of 3 feet. If we go to say 4DDD, the length of the wire going around just one coil is now only about 2.1 feet or roughly a 30% reduction in length. And since all three coils are wired parallel, they all get the juice at the same time and all three ACT like they are wound at 1.4 turns and the kv goes up accordingly.

On the Squid motor I did it to get the kv up to where I wanted it for 4s batteries in a record SAW pass. There are times when you would do it to try and get closer to a specific kv because by doing DDD or YYY you can make 2-300 rpm jumps in the kv. But looking at motor data you see that normally moving just one turn number will result in a 600-1000 rpm or more jump in kv.

All this is based on a 9 or 18 slot stator and 6 pole rotor, ie meaning D is 3 coils D is 3 and D is 3 more. The DDD is describing that there are 3 sets of coils per leg.

If we were doing a 4 pole 12 slot motor (which is our most common) it would be called DD or YY, because there are only 2 coils per leg in a 12 slot stator.

[T.S.Davis]

Yes come on down to Huntsville for some record running. And remember, my youngest son owns a brewpub there. A free beer for record winners!

Some of us are still talking about the nats even with this virus crap still lingering. We'll see. Two trips might be tough but no Cup!

[donhuff]

Yeah, I'd do the Nats before I drove that far, for a record trials. The weather in Huntsville is always iffy.

[raptor347]

Well done Don!!! Brings back memories of some custom Aveox motors I wound in the late 90's. Maximize the copper fill in the windows, minimize the end winding losses and funky eddy currents. With good high temp wire it should raise the current capacity significantly. when are you going to start winding with silver wire? At some point the field will saturate, that will be the wall for the base components. Next thing will be fine tuning with magnet grade and rotor air gap.

I wish I had some parts for the old Aveox HyperCo FAI motors. 1409 size, 24 slot hypercobalt stacks and 8 pole pie wedge magnet rotors. We could probably run 2kw through those with cooling. I think we were putting 2.4kw 5 second bursts through them in the nose of airplanes.

[donhuff]

Thanks Brian.

Yes max copper fill really wakes up the AQ especially, because it has such a small amount of wire in it as stock. And the "windows" are huge compared to the other motors in the class.
But the stator lamination's are an old design, and are thick, and appear to be made from a more regular type of steel.

Like you say, the high temp wire, is the best part, about a rewind. especially in the dynamite motors. They have smaller slots and I can't get a big increase in copper fill, the 2000 in particular will hold only 2 or 3 extra strands , but the good insulation on the wire makes is well worth the rewind. Because then you can push it hard and hot and it keeps on running.

The silver wire sounds interesting, and I have looked at it before, BUT it's expensive! And I don't think we're at that "level" YET. I would like to see the difference it makes, if any, compared to a full window of good copper. Someday, if I ever get my dyno built, I'll be able to compare such things.

Magnet grade is something that I haven't done much with, mostly because all or motors have magnets shaped in a certain way to fit a particular stator. The "pie wedge" magnets sounds great, if only I could get some shaped like I want them cheeply, because if it doesn't work, they go in the trash. Actually stuff like that goes into the junk box, so that I can try them in the next experiment.

Air gap is a BIG factor in the power output of our motors. And is one reason that the Dynm 1500 is so strong. It has the tightest air gap of any motor that I have taken apart. I have made a couple of AQ rotor hubs, with larger diameters, and glued the magnets to them so as to close the air gap by half. It does make a difference!

I have made a couple of 8 pole and a couple of 10 pole motors out of my junk box. And they both worked pretty good. I don't think that they are worth the time and trouble though. And by using scrap parts, I wasn't able to get things to the dimensions that I would rather have had.

The Aveox HyperCobalt sounds interesting.