Swordfish Pro+ 220 Running Hot

[rickwess]

I bought from pre drilled circuit board from circuit city to make mounting the caps easy. I am using the same series parallel setup you are. The only stuff I could get had trace on one side, a quick trip on the belt sander eliminated that. With a little trimming they will be perfect to hold the caps to connect directly to the wire. Some heat shrink to finish it off. I can do a mock up and take a couple pictures if you like.

Sayal has the circuit board without traces.

I've built a few a these now. This time I put some 1/8" plywood at the base before I covered it in heat shrink. This should make it easier velco to the hull.

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[M3Man03]

I use this stuff instead of any pad:

41D3Lbl2oqL.jpg

http://www.amazon.com/Arctic-Alumina...=thermal+epoxy

Then you don't need to find any way of securing it. The thinner the better for heat transfer.

[rickwess]

I use this stuff instead of any pad:

http://www.amazon.com/Arctic-Alumina...=thermal+epoxy

Then you don't need to find any way of securing it. The thinner the better for heat transfer.

That would be better for a CPU, but the application here is much different. Take a look at the pic of the ESC and tell me how the paste would work.

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[M3Man03]

I actually just re-did mine and think I found a perfect solution.

I took 1/2" aluminum angle, cut 2 pieces to the length of the MOSFETs, applied thermal epoxy to them and the cooling brass tube so they were facing down. 1 side of the angle touched the MOSFETs and one side attached to the brass cooling tube.

Then I put the original aluminum plate across both of the sides, epoxied to it.

I should have taken some pictures during, but I didn't. Turns out to a REAL nice package and gives cooling to the other side of the MOSFETs as well rather than just the plate to equalize the temperature.

Here's 2 pics of the finished product. The black stuff is liquid electrical tape for waterproofing.

Swordfish.jpg
Swordfish2.jpg

[ray schrauwen]

Nice Job!

Sayal has the circuit board without traces.

I've built a few a these now. This time I put some 1/8" plywood at the base before I covered it in heat shrink. This should make it easier velco to the hull.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]116280[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH=CONFIG]116281[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH=CONFIG]116282[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH=CONFIG]116283[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH=CONFIG]116284[/ATTACH]

[rickwess]

Nice Job!

Thanks Ray.

I actually just re-did mine and think I found a perfect solution.

I took 1/2" aluminum angle, cut 2 pieces to the length of the MOSFETs, applied thermal epoxy to them and the cooling brass tube so they were facing down. 1 side of the angle touched the MOSFETs and one side attached to the brass cooling tube.

Then I put the original aluminum plate across both of the sides, epoxied to it.

I should have taken some pictures during, but I didn't. Turns out to a REAL nice package and gives cooling to the other side of the MOSFETs as well rather than just the plate to equalize the temperature.

I like it. I was wondering how to avoid the motor wire solders and the two pieces of angle do that. I already have the 1/2" x 1/2" x 1/16" thick aluminum angle and just ordered the thermal adhesive.

I'm sure my heat issue was prop related, but since I had the ESC open anyway, it might as well put it back together better than it was originally. I'll post pics of the steps, but for now it's off to Orlando for a conference.

[srislash]

Thanks Ray.





I like it. I was wondering how to avoid the motor wire solders and the two pieces of angle do that. I already have the 1/2" x 1/2" x 1/16" thick aluminum angle and just ordered the thermal adhesive.

I'm sure my heat issue was prop related, but since I had the ESC open anyway, it might as well put it back together better than it was originally. I'll post picks of the steps, but for now it's off to Orlando for a conference.

Nothing wrong with overbuilding. You guys have me thinking.

[ray schrauwen]

Where di you buy the thermal epoxy from? Canada or USA?

Thanks Ray.





I like it. I was wondering how to avoid the motor wire solders and the two pieces of angle do that. I already have the 1/2" x 1/2" x 1/16" thick aluminum angle and just ordered the thermal adhesive.

I'm sure my heat issue was prop related, but since I had the ESC open anyway, it might as well put it back together better than it was originally. I'll post pics of the steps, but for now it's off to Orlando for a conference.

[ray schrauwen]

Did you keep the original cooling tubes too or did you remove them or not use them?
Hard to tell from pictures.

I actually just re-did mine and think I found a perfect solution.

I took 1/2" aluminum angle, cut 2 pieces to the length of the MOSFETs, applied thermal epoxy to them and the cooling brass tube so they were facing down. 1 side of the angle touched the MOSFETs and one side attached to the brass cooling tube.

Then I put the original aluminum plate across both of the sides, epoxied to it.

I should have taken some pictures during, but I didn't. Turns out to a REAL nice package and gives cooling to the other side of the MOSFETs as well rather than just the plate to equalize the temperature.

Here's 2 pics of the finished product. The black stuff is liquid electrical tape for waterproofing.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]116313[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]116314[/ATTACH]

[oscarel]

I actually just re-did mine and think I found a perfect solution.

I took 1/2" aluminum angle, cut 2 pieces to the length of the MOSFETs, applied thermal epoxy to them and the cooling brass tube so they were facing down. 1 side of the angle touched the MOSFETs and one side attached to the brass cooling tube.

Then I put the original aluminum plate across both of the sides, epoxied to it.

I should have taken some pictures during, but I didn't. Turns out to a REAL nice package and gives cooling to the other side of the MOSFETs as well rather than just the plate to equalize the temperature.

Here's 2 pics of the finished product. The black stuff is liquid electrical tape for waterproofing.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]116313[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]116314[/ATTACH]

I have 2 castle air controllers I just did this with. One was done with aluminum and the other with copper. Good results with the aluminum and will test the copper this week. Per this chart copper has twice the thermal transfer ability. ONLINEMETALS has good prices and was local and thermal epoxy http://www.ebay.com/itm/221378467457...84.m1439.l2649

[rickwess]

Where di you buy the thermal epoxy from? Canada or USA?

Canada
http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product...-013-_-Product

[rickwess]

Did y0u keep the original cooling tubes too or did you remove them or not use them?
Hard to tell from pictures.

Hi Ray. I took some pics before I left for the conference. I don't have the adhesive yet, but this is how it will look.

I used Plasti-Dip to insulate the exposed battery and motor wire solder joints. Then I did a slight grind on the cooling tubes to get a flat spot. The tubes are shaped like a hex on the outside and a corner was where the angle would attached to.

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The angles go on first then the original plate on top of those.
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[ray schrauwen]

Awesome, thanks!

[ray schrauwen]

I used to be able to get plasti-dip at Canadian Tire but, a search came up almost blank..? My old clear stuff is coagulating.

[rickwess]

I used to be able to get plasti-dip at Canadian Tire but, a search came up almost blank..? My old clear stuff is coagulating.

You can buy Plasti-Dip at Home Hardware. Also, most paint stores carry Xylene which can be used to thin out the out stuff that is turning into gel.