Good flowing finish epoxy?

[kfxguy]

I'm having trouble repairing some ride pads on a cat. I'm using west systems 105/207 and the flow out is less than ideal. It's also getting bubbles in it. I have no issues with this when I do inlays because I go back over it with a foam roller. In this situation I need it to flow out as Nicely as possible with minimal air bubbles. I have some west 209 hardener I haven't tried yet but is said not meant for a clear coating or something like that. I'm have to put way to many coats to get it level and by the time I sand it level I'm back down to the carbon doing it all over again. And it's getting old because I'm on about my 5th application of epoxy. Here's what I've tried:


Letting epoxy sit for a bit to let air bubbles escape
Mix slowly to avoid many air bubbles from forming
Epoxy and hardened are fresh (maybe a month or so old)
Heating up lightly with a heat gun to thin it and allow bubbles to escape
Heating up more aggressively still no difference

My shop is around 70 degrees

Last night out of desperation I used the brush to pop the air bubble but where I touch it with a brush it would be a bump in the epoxy. I tried hearing it to flow it out. Nope. I tried running the brush over it to smooth it, more bubbles. Wth! Lol. So ideas? Suggestions? Any other epoxy to try? Hardener? Maybe I could add a pinch of graphite powder to it and tone the bubbles down? But that make make it flow even worse. Help lol

[JimClark]

Lhey make sandable fillers to put in the epoxy

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[Darin Jordan]

Are you using just pure epoxy??

Have you considered mixing in some cabosil (Fumed Silica)? It turns your epoxy into more of a paste (depending on how much you mix in) and will allow you to spread it kind of like Bondo. Not nearly as smooth as Bondo, but it allows it to hold it's form once in place.

It's what good composite guys used to lay into the corners, strakes, sharp edges, etc., prior to doing a layup for a hull.

[Darin Jordan]

Here is an example of what I'm talking about:

http://www.iboats.com/Spectrum-Color-Cabosil/dm/cart_id.168513117--session_id.634459867--view_id.953457

[kfxguy]

Well I was thinking that fillers would not allow it to flow out as well. But. It will allow me to put a thicker layer. Problem is I want it to be clear so the carbon still looks nice. I'm using just west systems 105/207

[JimClark]

You are right it won't flow well but I didn't realize it was on a carbon hull without paint

Well I was thinking that fillers would not allow it to flow out as well. But. It will allow me to put a thicker layer. Problem is I want it to be clear so the carbon still looks nice. I'm using just west systems 105/207

[kfxguy]

You are right it won't flow well but I didn't realize it was on a carbon hull without paint

Sorry I should have mentioned that but I didn't want to write a book and everyone get bored. Lol

[Shooter]

Good topic. I've struggled with the same thing. Even tried pressurizing the mix in a paint can prior to applying (old casting trick). I hate to say it, but we might need to put it in a vacuum canister to remove all the bubbles created during the mix.

[modvp55]

When we use to flow coat the inside of our ski boats that customers wanted to see the balsa core and have it smooth and shiney we would add ramanel (spelling?) to allow vinylester resin to flow out.

[TRUCKPULL]

The 207 should work fine with no bubbles,
I know they say 60 degrees min. temperature , but I use 73 - 75 degrees as a Min. with 207

Have you tried adding 25 to 50% alcohol or acetone to thin it out??

Larry

[JimClark]

I would also think raising the temp some would help with the viscosity

[JimClark]

I got a question on areas where you want a really sharp edge what do carbon hull makers use? I had a carbon 1/10th scale hydro and they just used epoxy with cabosil in it to thicken it and form the sharp edge that carbon cloth couldnt. But is you want a clear finish on your carbon hull what is used?

[srislash]

I have been using my SystemThree laminating resin for my pads Travis. Actually for everything. But for my repairs and such it is thin enough to work into cracks and such and level out nicely even when 1/16" thick(as long as I set it up correctly).

[larryrose11]

I use AdTech 820.
Comes out quite thin and flows nicely. It also feels a lot harder than West once it cures.
I plan on using it when I start doing resin infusion. The thin aspect allows you to put a minimal layer. Wait for it to cure, and block sand it down. The glossy bits after you sand are the low spots.

http://www.sollercomposites.com/composites/Epoxy.html

As for bubbles, it has been recommended to me for infusions that I degas the epoxy after mixing by putting it in a vacuum chamber. Doing this will prevent bubbles in the infusion, similar to what your looking for.

[kfxguy]

I'm gonna try warming the whole can of epoxy and hardener. Maybe that might help. Maybe try the 209. Thin it some. I'll try anything lol. Except I'm not sure how I'd go about putting it in a vacuum. I have a vacuum bag setup. But to me it doesn't seem like it Wouk help because as soon as I brush it on...bubbles again.