Mr Krabs build

[Xzessperated]

tsc, tsc, tsc...
kids...

that's why I have 2 daughters, hehehehe, the troubles really start when they turn pre-teen...
Paddy, have a rapid recover, show the kids who wears the pants in the house...

Lucky man Jan. My 20 year old daughter is a perfect little angel too.
My father and I fought like cats and dogs too. What goes around, comes around I guess.

Jan your PM may have been a big help. I will PM you after I sleep. Thanks for the help

[old guy]

Hi old man tehe Still 2 feet of ice on the lake and it snowed here again yesterday. any way on the Krabbs set CD it shose the strut at 13mm this might be what you need to get the front lose.
Old Guy

[Simon.O.]

If the strut is moved from 17mm (AndrewG) to 13mm (H&M) the difference in Tub angle is between 1 and 2 degrees.Assuming that you do not adjust the sponson angle this will also increase by the same.
This will now make the tub AoA a little over 3 degrees.
Given the surface area under the tub this may produce a fair bit of compression lift and the associated drag.

I take it that these hulls if built per instructions will allow the tub AoA and sponson AoA to be altered independantly. My one can.
I will set it for minimal Tub AoA 1-2 deg and the sponsons at 4 deg.

I am now just waiting for my coupler and some reasonable weather.

[crabstick]

Hey Simon I hear the weather forcast is for 5 knots on saturday, so it could be the Day..

heres hoping my kb45 and Lipos turn up before the weekened!

[Xzessperated]

Jan, Simon, Rick and crabstick,
Thanks guys for all your help. You have given me some good ideas that I will try one at a time.
Jan has got me thinking that maybe I am using the wrong size props. I can never get my 1521 1D to rev as well as my 1515 1.5y. If you listen to the sound of the engines on my You Tube videos you will hear what I mean.
I will work on the strut depth again also.

[crabstick]

Yeah one change at a time is the only way to do it, then at least you know which one made the difference.

How far below the rear ride shoe does the strut sit ? is it lifting it clear of the water at full throttle in a straight line?

[Xzessperated]

Yeah one change at a time is the only way to do it, then at least you know which one made the difference.

How far below the rear ride shoes does the strut sit ? is it lifting them clear of the water at full throttle in a straight line?

There is just one shoe on the rear of Mr Krabs as you will see in the pic. It does ride clear of the water at full speed.

[slimshady]

slimshady,

If you want to send me the shaft (I'm in the UK), I will make you a copy of it adapted to take 3/16th" props. PM me for my contact details.

Out of interest, what brass props are you using?

Regards,
Paul

Sorry Paul, been a bit busy over the past month or so – PM sent

New toy purchased check out the photo of the radar gun – The manufacture clams it’s within +/- 2 MPH - only problem now is I need a bigger pond and dog drive props.

See you all soon


Slim

[bigwaveohs]

"Taipan" fin?

The strut and rudder are both Speedmaster and the turn fin is a Taipan fin.



The boat will be encouraged to plane with the following.... Neu 1521 1D, Castle 240 esc, Octura V947 prop, 4S 4500 30C lipo

I'm familiar with Speedmaster, but what is a "Taipan" fin? Chinese?

[egneg]

I'm familiar with Speedmaster, but what is a "Taipan" fin? Chinese?

I would like to know as well.

[Xzessperated]

I'm familiar with Speedmaster, but what is a "Taipan" fin? Chinese?

Patrick (great name), Chuck,
Taipan fins are made in Australia and can be purchased through the link below. It is better to email Andrew and ask him if he has them in stock before ordering.
Patrick

http://www.fastelectrics.com/default.asp

[tylerm]

Taipan fins=taipan rigger kits. Nice boats as well.

[slimshady]

Ok sorry all for not posting sooner, My Mr Krabs build has been a bit delayed due to working away from home over the past couple of months, during this time Paul has been the absolute best pool of advice and has also helped sort out my drive problems. I now have a 3/16 dog drive system on a flexi with all the other parts to help.

My latest antics involve blowing the tracks from the upper board of my 5S LiPo and then accidently forcing my cheap Chinese motor to 60KRPM + in the dry trying to re-programme it, with the blips and dashes, oppps, now the end is not connected to the body.

I have now decided to order some better parts from this web site (OSE).

I have ordered a 1521/1D NEU, a 240Amp Hydra ESC, a programming cable, some capacitors, 6mm wire and bullet connectors, a turn fin and I am waiting for the water jacket to come back into stock.

My logic is simply go for it – I will eventually need to order hardware of this calibre, so why not use it now and simply not use it to its full capacity until I am ready for it / correctly set up.

Turning is still a problem and I will almost certainly need the help of Paul again to help me configure my prop shaft (sorry mate).


Off subject to Mr Krabs:

I used the radar gun to clock a couple of boats on our pond at the weekend – some mono 1s using 12 cells were clocked between 28MPH and 31MPH – not bad / very good. Then we had a 4S mono 2 at 38MPH and finally an IC cat with 24MPH. All not bad but the previous week I clocked Pauls X rigger *(now Tim’s little gem) at 59MPH. To be honest Tim had modified the rigger and upped the cells from 2s to 4s but this must be the fastest boat at the club.


See you all soon


Slim

[Xzessperated]

I have now decided to order some better parts from this web site (OSE).

I have ordered a 1521/1D NEU, a 240Amp Hydra ESC, a programming cable, some capacitors, 6mm wire and bullet connectors, a turn fin and I am waiting for the water jacket to come back into stock.

My logic is simply go for it – I will eventually need to order hardware of this calibre, so why not use it now and simply not use it to its full capacity until I am ready for it / correctly set up.

See you all soon

Slim

Slim good to see you giving the boat a motor it deserves. Keep a good check on the heat of the 240 Hydra esc as the motor is an Amp hog and things can get warm. Best to start off testing with a small prop and build up in prop size if you have no heat problems. Do not run more than 4s on that motor. That motor and hull combination is capable of 80+ mph on 4s. I have had mine to 70 mph but for some reason I just can not get the motor to rev like it should. I have listened to quite a few boats running the 1521 on 4s and they scream but mine is only getting slightly excited. I have a new 35C battery to try on it to see if that is the problem and I hope to test that in a few days time.
Good to hear from you and I hope you have a great summer at the pond.

Paddyh

[slimshady]

MR Krabs in 3D

MR Krabs in 3D

Hi all, I have spent a bit of time 3D modelling Mr Krabs ready for my new Neu motor (to see if it fits) – the file I enclose is very very early days and the booms do not line up and the hull, yet, the hull is very sketchy (I am a solid modeller not a surface modeller) so this has been a massive learning curve for me.

I use Autodesk Inventor 2010 and you will need to download a free 3D viewer from Autodesk:

Web link to Autodesk Click

If this doesn’t work copy and paste this address: http://usa.autodesk.com/adsk/servlet...&siteID=123112

Let me know what you think, as mentioned it is very very early days

Slim

Edit ------ Ok apparently this web site cannot support more than 97Kb file size, so if you want the 3D model please PM me with your email address and I will send it on or complain to the administrator and allow me to post the 3D model.