Finally finished the brackets. Way too much time into these. The CNC at work made it a lot easier to cut out the center though. I won't be playing 'etch-a-sketch' ever again. CNC or nothing.
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...and yes....I ditched the break-away feature on the latest version.Comment
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I want one! NOW!
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she's a real nice boat to build flraptor07 , 1515 2200kv with a twin 4s pack an a t180 esc , oh ya , fassssstComment
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Why? You would rather destroy the transom of your boat!?!?!Originally posted by Shooter View PostComment
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This is probably the better option, from insane racing. Absolutely beautiful, but it's $100!Comment
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Yeah!! Livin' dangerously! I'm not at all saying they don't work, but I've just never seen it. Every time I've ran over someone or something (tends to happen a lot on Wed night!), it just bends up the rudder and kicks the rear end of the boat up. I'd rather just have everything tight. That little brass screw doesn't put a lot of clamp on the bottom and from what I've seen, most people's rudders just end up on an angle after a few runs. I was reading somewhere that you can affect the handling of the boat in a turn with how you have the rudder angled (tucked under pulls the rear down, swung out lifts the rear in a turn). Who knows! It sure was easier to machine!Originally posted by longballlumber View PostComment
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So, for those that have seen Mike's stuffing tube installations, you know that they are a work of art. After talking with him a few weeks ago, I tried to give it a shot. I have (6) layers of very thin (3/4oz) glass on the tube with west systems. So far, so good.Comment
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BTW, I don't know how the pros do it, but I've had pretty good success setting up boats this way:
Prior to gluing in the stuffing tube, I make sure the bend is set-up for 'neutral' strut position. I have two thin pcs of ply under the sponson bottoms to make up for the difference between the bottom of the strut and the centerline of the propshaft. Then, I adjust the strut until the boat bottom is flat to the table, calling this the 'neutral' position.
I loosen the collet on the motor shaft and spin the flex. If it's not absolutely free spinning on the motor shaft, I re-bend. Iterative process between bending and checking until it spins free.
I used to think that a nice solid shaft in the collet slipped into the stuff tube would center it, but there can still be side load. Anyways, this method has worked better for me, for what it's worth!Comment
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Easy... Size the brass screw appropriately. Agreed the balancing act can be tough on proper brass screw size and shear strength. However, you can try and increase the friction between the matting surfaces pretty easy.Originally posted by Shooter View Post
I disagree with your statement... You can just as easily break a rudder; ask me how I know.....
Later,
BallComment
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That's almost the setup I'm gonna use except with a SF 200amp Pro Plus.Originally posted by darryl whitman View PostComment
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Last year I ran a 1515 2200kv with 8000mah, a Castle 240, and an H5 prop. Ran great!Originally posted by flraptor07 View PostComment
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Good idea. I hadn't thought of that. Roughening up the contact surfaces would help. Now I suppose we are going to start discussing static and kinetic friction??Originally posted by longballlumber View PostComment
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I posted some ideas on that . Im tryin some sand mixin clear coat an place it on the last 3" of the sponsons, don't know if it will work ,Comment
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oh ya , on the t180 esc, hard time with space , Shooter how big is the castle esc , might have to rethink this,Comment
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