Longball would u plz take a photo so I can see what your talkin about, stinger ? thank u.
Shooter I got 1 coat resin w/ 1/2 oz, glass inside an on the bottom outside . then 2nd coat over alllite sand then primer..
started on the stuffin tube block, I'll post a pics soon
There is a small gap at the forward sponson bulkhead and sponson stringer intersection that isn't at the rear sponson bulkhead. I agreed to build one of these for/with Pete and offer any feedback regarding construction. My preferred building methods are a little different than most; making my builds a little on the slow side.
OK, you guys got me. There was a constraint error after I added dihedral to the bulkhead and frames. See comparison of the model and Mike's build. This doesn't affect the build in anyway other than the slots have a tad more gap up front.
I corrected the issues and re-constrained the model. I will also be introducing V5.5 shortly, with even larger bleeds!
OK, you guys got me. There was a constraint error after I added dihedral to the bulkhead and frames. See comparison of the model and Mike's build. This doesn't affect the build in anyway other than the slots have a tad more gap up front.
I corrected the issues and re-constrained the model. I will also be introducing V5.5 shortly, with even larger bleeds!
No worries Pete,
Not an attempt to bust your coconuts... This is what I agreed to do was give you feedback.
You may want to review the rules in each organization regarding sport hydro planes before getting too radical on the vents and other "out side of the box" changes. It would be a shame if you spent all of this time and have an issue with rules making the boat ineligible for records or "sanctioned" event.
Well, after sanding again, it was evident that the second coat of resin just 'sat on top' of the first. Totally unnecessary and exactly as Mike said above. I sanded the second coat completely off. This boat is ready for primer.
And....here we go again! Version 5.5! Made a lot of minor tweaks again including extra notches for 1/8th spruce, deeper air bleeds, cross braced temporary motor mount, and notches in the transom for better alignment of the tub pcs. This build is going fast.
Darryl, I forgot to mention before, it is quite a feat to deck this boat without pre-fab pcs. Matching the curve was not easy on the first boat I built (prior to the pre-fab sheeting). I'm impressed. If you don't mind, please share your methods. Thanks!
Shooter , you are so right about the top skin, what I did is I take a sheet of poster paper an lay the boat upside down
on it an trace around the boat, then cut out the shape , set the boat right side up, lay the cut out on top of the boat,
and place a few pcs of tape to hold it down , then with my finger rub the all edges of the frame , this shows me the
creases of the frame work, this is OLD SCHOOL pattern making but it works for me, also when you do this plz over cut
the plywood then sand down to fit. this can be timely.
remember to take 3/16 more off the inside edges of the top skin where the stringer runs , so your cowl and or lids
will sit on to be tape down. I'll try to get some pics of this to help .
Also Shooter , did you cut out notches on the 2 inner frames that run from the nose to transom so you can run 1 pc 1/8
stringers, sorry if you did on v5.5 , I didnt see it , thanks Shooter for a nice design. Darryl
Shooter ,
Thanks Darryl. That's essentially how I did the first one.....applied pressure and creased the paper. Yes, very time consuming.
Not sure if I understand what location you are talking about regarding the notches. I certainly added more, but it was mostly in the cross stringers, not the axial stringers.
sorry about that , yes the cross stringers is what I ment, that runs throw the sponsons. The guys here like the frame work. and they r giving ideas on the cowl. hoping to get hardware in next weekend,
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