On a side note, I have been looking my Castle Ice 100A and wondering about how to cool it. My first thoughts were to add some aluminum tubing with applied thermal grease directly to the cooling fins and install a water pickup to the transom. Then I realized there is differences between marine and air esc's when using a pistol controller. I guess the difference is the throttle end points. I haven't really thought about what rx to use either. I have a Spektrum Dx8 and a Surface Dx3 which I use with the Supervee 27. I know using my surface rx in that boat sucks for range. I also have a Aquacraft pistol Tx and Rx which I think I should use with this airboat project but I guess using an air esc could be an issue.
I have offset the fan forward from the bracket to allow room for a thrust cone attachment behind it.
I want to add the cone to prevent any splash up into the outrunner motor. I think this might even help with the CG of boat too.
You might want to add some more flotation in the opening you have made now,
If it was a air pocket there before you opened it.
Just to be on the safe side I would.
I had a chance to do a static test today. I ran up a fully charged 6s 5000mAh 40C pack at WOT for 5 straight minutes. The esc was just sitting loose in the back of the battery compartment without any cooling whatsoever. It never exceeded 160F in the entire runtime.
I was not able to hold the boat down on the stand with one hand and work the temp gun with the other. It had so much thrust I had to put the boat upon a padded cushion against the wall. This rig has so much thrust I am confident it will do well on the water.
I would still like to devise a way to provide some cooling for the esc even though the temperature shutoff is 240F. If I run the boat conservatively I could probably get close to 8-10 mins run time but the esc will naturally get hotter at half throttle. Perhaps a small 6v esc cooling fan would be enough and I might not need to construct water cooling lines. I will still waterproof the esc in case I manage to capsize the boat.
So far so good, I cant wait to try this on water!
When I get another chance I will do another static test and see if this will shed enough heat. Castle recommends a minimum of 5mph airflow over the esc for safe operation.
When I get another chance I will do another static test and see if this will shed enough heat. Castle recommends a minimum of 5mph airflow over the esc for safe operation.
Yes but here's something to think about, you're just moving air around in a sealed chamber.
Yes that is something i have thought about.
"How effective would this cooling method be if I were only pushing around hot air in a sealed chamber..."
I will have another go with the static tests and see if there is enough air inside the cavity to keep the esc comfortable for ten minutes of run time.
As it was, without a fan, it was capable of running in safe temperatures for the duration. Anything I can do now to mitigate the heat would only improve the situation.
Other thoughts would be air scoops or vents but that would be a nasty way to get water into the boat.
I could put the esc into the thrust tube of the fan itself. A less cosmetic option yes but very effective.
I could install water lines across the heat sink to help bring the temps down but a water pickup on the transom would really increase the drag of the boat. An edf airboat would suffer by that.
Yes indeed and to build something like that could be fun too.
I was googlin' up some other people's cooling block builds too trying to get more info.
Would you be able to provide any building details? How would you rate the effectiveness of your design?
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