114cm mhz mystic build
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Im using 1840/2 props in this video with the 3674 motors 2075kv that the zonda came with.
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@ twisted, you should run something like 440 or 442 first to see how you go. Not to say that you can't end up with larger props, but you should start small. the 1.9 pitch may cavitate and not get you going. Or will take some effort to gain speed.
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No I just ordered the motors from tppowerusa.com last Friday. I order a bunch of counter rotating props to get me there also. Will try the 1945/2 props first. I'll post it when I get the chance to run it though.
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Did I miss the 100mph run??Originally posted by twissted View Posthttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hPv8K2ImRWY
I know it's harder in a zonda. That's why it's worth doing.
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I know it's harder in a zonda. That's why it's worth doing.
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40000 RPM unload is a maximum if you want to have the choice with your propellers
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@ twisted the setup "will not" give you 100mph just because the hull can handle it. Even harder to do in a Zonda. Not a good idea to promote if you haven't tested and achieved the speed! Will not come by a snap of your fingers.
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4050's at 2200kv on 6s is quite normal for those boats, if you understand how to use the setup and it's limits. But as far as rpm it's ok. I have the same in my hpr115. A mate at the lake running same setup in a Zonda at 85mph.
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isnt 49000 RPM a bit too high? :) about 9-14000 RPM? :) theres such thing as cavitation on propelers
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Originally posted by twissted View Post
This is my Zonda a 107 cm I'm getting new TP 4050 3Y 2220kv motors on 6s I have props from kentec and OSE to try. From 1450/2,1447/2&3,1945/2,1445/2 and 1840/2 props. This will get me over a 100 MPH! If your hull is built to take this kind of speed there will be people standing in line to watch! I found out that the rudder mount is important to the hulls survival. I added another 2 mil of carbon and saddle to make it not flex or shift. I used loc-tite marine epoxy to install.
This is how it looks before I filed and sealed the edges.
49000 RPM unload...
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In regards to the cap bank that parallels both ESCs/packs together:Originally posted by Mattyb1975wahoo View Postthe cap bank idea has been looking good to me regardless. I do car and home audio and I am schooled in the way of capacitance. moy importente lol.
I have been looking ( http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...p8mm-2&cat=136 ) any thoughts? I thought if I ran 4 3s packs doing 6s then parallel the packs I could save money while using in my cars, distribute weight, as well as getting longer run time
If you're running in IMPBA, you have to parallel both sides (packs and ESCs) together to effectively have one "pack". If you are not running in IMPBA I recommend NOT doing this and keeping each side separate. Having everything paralleled presents some safety issues as everything is "hot" when you plug one side in (the leads on the other side can easily short if they touch each other, metal, or cabon fiber). You also run the risk of losing all of your components if there is a failure in one side that causes a short. If each side is kept separate, only the ESC/lipos/etc. on that side are at risk if a failure occurs on that side. Rarely do we see an instance when both sides fail at the same time independently.
There are some rare cases where ESC layout will favor a parallel configuration, but you shouldn't have that issue with your setup.
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I have played with props as well. I'm new to rc boats so I'm trying different things to see what works and what doesn't. I could just fallow what others have done or buy what others have done, but what is the fun in that?



Last edited by twissted; 02-24-2014, 08:41 PM.
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This is my Zonda a 107 cm I'm getting new TP 4050 3Y 2220kv motors on 6s I have props from kentec and OSE to try. From 1450/2,1447/2&3,1945/2,1445/2 and 1840/2 props. This will get me over a 100 MPH! If your hull is built to take this kind of speed there will be people standing in line to watch! I found out that the rudder mount is important to the hulls survival. I added another 2 mil of carbon and saddle to make it not flex or shift. I used loc-tite marine epoxy to install.

This is how it looks before I filed and sealed the edges.Last edited by twissted; 02-23-2014, 04:17 PM.
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The idea possibly is use 4 3s packs. Two in series to each esc. Or possibly 4 6s packs. Each two in parallel to each esc.
My limitations are I can run no higher then 6s with my 180 amp seaking esc's. I believe with the help of Keith I am going to be running black series 2000kv motors
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Sorry but I don' t understand your setup,
4074 / 1700kV motors should be the perfect size with 6S batteries
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