Kevin, the lightening holes serve to lighten the boat but they also allow for water to get out. Try to make sure all the areas are able to drain and air dry.
As Peter noted, I made the deck opening wider to help with component install and battery access. I also added corner bracing and glue blocks to many of the joints. The trade off in the small amount of added weight is worth the strength and rigidity, IMO.
The plans show the drive line offset and I built mine that way, but I'm not sure much if any performance is gained from it.
Sealing your boat is actually a pretty important step. I use west systems for all my builds, but it's expensive and not available at your LHS. I have used Z-Poxy finishing resin, which should be at your LHS, with good results too. At the very least, use an epoxy of some sort and not a fiberglass resin. Epoxy and FG resin don't like to play well together and you could have issues later in the build.
Hope this helps.
Scott
As Peter noted, I made the deck opening wider to help with component install and battery access. I also added corner bracing and glue blocks to many of the joints. The trade off in the small amount of added weight is worth the strength and rigidity, IMO.
The plans show the drive line offset and I built mine that way, but I'm not sure much if any performance is gained from it.
Sealing your boat is actually a pretty important step. I use west systems for all my builds, but it's expensive and not available at your LHS. I have used Z-Poxy finishing resin, which should be at your LHS, with good results too. At the very least, use an epoxy of some sort and not a fiberglass resin. Epoxy and FG resin don't like to play well together and you could have issues later in the build.
Hope this helps.
Scott
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