BBY Micro Turbine Hydro for SSSH

[Dr. Jet]

It has a great profile.

Joe,

When I'm done, not even Randy will recognize this hull.

You have been instrumental in this build with your hardware package. Now, all we need is a 1/8" strut with a small transom bracket for those who do not want to do a straight shaft (and for the future JetCanard 400 SSSH).

[Dr. Jet]

Most Viewed Thread

6,419 hits on this thread. That makes this the most viewed thread in OSE history (I believe).

And I'm nowhere near finished with the build.

Great. After I posted this the other most hit thread (actually a sticky "Let's see what we all look like) went to 6,420.

[J Solinger]

Joe,

When I'm done, not even Randy will recognize this hull.

You have been instrumental in this build with your hardware package. Now, all we need is a 1/8" strut with a small transom bracket for those who do not want to do a straight shaft (and for the future JetCanard 400 SSSH).

I've been beating my head on the wall over this one. I have designed a small strut but there isn't a drive line to go with it. So that needs to be made too. I don't have a lathe so I'm up against the wall on this one.

[Sneasle]

I wonder if the straight shaft can take that much speed, or if not, what strut and shaft Wilmer was using.

Where do you get cab o sil from?

How did you go about building the hull? Install the the CF/FG matt, install the frame and drive line, and the glue the two halves together? What did you use to make sure that the joint between the halves wouldn't split?

[Dr. Jet]

I've been beating my head on the wall over this one. I have designed a small strut but there isn't a drive line to go with it. So that needs to be made too. I don't have a lathe so I'm up against the wall on this one.

Joe,

Build it around the Octura 1/8" propshaft (drilled for 1/16 wire). That way, low-powered setups can use the 0.030 wire like I did on a couple of hulls, or a 1/16" wire for more powerful systems.

[JimClark]

Doc did you use bearings in the strut for the below setup? In my i/16th I made a .062 wiredrive with a .125 stub and used the octura lead Teflon bearings in the strut.

Jim

Joe,

Build it around the Octura 1/8" propshaft (drilled for 1/16 wire). That way, low-powered setups can use the 0.030 wire like I did on a couple of hulls, or a 1/16" wire for more powerful systems.

[Dr. Jet]

I wonder if the straight shaft can take that much speed, or if not, what strut and shaft Wilmer was using.

The shaft can take the speed, that's not the issue. The issue is the lack of adjustability. With the straight shaft, all you can do is change the balance by moving the battery. With low-power systems, that's not a big deal for dialing-in the ride, but when operating at the edge, you need adjustable thrust angles at the prop PLUS adjustable balance.

Where do you get cab o sil from?

http://www.dmc-ca.com/ They refer to it as Aerosil. Microbaloons will work as well.

How did you go about building the hull? Install the the CF/FG matt, install the frame and drive line, and the glue the two halves together?

Exactly

What did you use to make sure that the joint between the halves wouldn't split?

Glue the top deck on with expanding polyurethane glue (Gorilla Glue). Then fill the lip with epoxy. The epoxy will flow into the gap between the bottom and top halves. When you sand the lip off, there is still an epoxy/Gorilla Glue joint between the deck and hull.

[Dr. Jet]

Doc did you use bearings in the strut for the below setup? In my i/16th I made a .062 wiredrive with a .125 stub and used the octura lead Teflon bearings in the strut.

Jim

I would use the Octura lead-teflon bushings to keep the OD of the strut small. Ball-bearings would make the OD of the strut look huge on these little hulls. I think the goal would be to have the strut OD be the same as the drive dog and the prop hub; i.e. 1/4".

[J Solinger]

I don't think Octura makes an 1/8" stub drilled for .062 wire, I've been looking on and off for a few years and haven't come across them. I'm shooting for a total drive line price of about $10. I have the design, I just dont have the tools.

[Dr. Jet]

I don't think Octura makes an 1/8" stub drilled for .062 wire, I've been looking on and off for a few years and haven't come across them. I'm shooting for a total drive line price of about $10. I have the design, I just dont have the tools.

I have several of them. Octura part number OC4062PS. 2" overall length, bored for 1/16" wire. $2.65 + S&H

[J Solinger]

Wooop there it is. How deep is the 1/16" hole? Damn inconvienient they don't have their stuff online.

[JimClark]

The K&S .125 OD SS tube has the 1/16th holew in it that is what I used for my 1/16th wire drive I made. It works great and the wire goes the full length of the stub

[J Solinger]

I've got a rod of that here. I had the same thing in mind. What did you use for a prop nut?

[Dr. Jet]

I've got a rod of that here. I had the same thing in mind. What did you use for a prop nut?

I've used that method as well. A wheel collar or a piece of fuel tubing will hols the prop on. I've found that the K&S 1/8" SS tube is actually a few thousandths bigger than 0.125".

[Dr. Jet]

How deep is the 1/16" hole?

About 3/4" as I recall. Plenty for the power levels for these little boats.

Damn inconvienient they don't have their stuff online.

I think they would sell a lot more product if they had a website. Even something simple without a lot of "features" would help.