41" Delta Force Racing Build - Nitro to Electric

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  • carlcisneros
    replied
    Marin;
    one thing before you finish up on the inside of the boat, PLEASE take that teflon tube liner, remove it,
    and chuck it in the bin.................
    These have been known to grab the flex shaft (even when they are greased up) and completely
    twist the flex shaft and shaft tube into a pretzel in a blink of an eye.

    Believe me here, I DO speak from experience as others here on the forum and OTHER forums can attest.

    your build is looking excellent.

    Leave a comment:


  • Drax21
    replied
    I have been fairly busy this week but I managed to get a little time free to put some decals and install some parts in the boat. I also lengthened the horrible Leopard wires. How's it look?

    DSC_2549.jpgDSC_2551.jpgDSC_2552.jpgDSC_2554.jpg

    Leave a comment:


  • Drax21
    replied
    So I got the batteries today!! No probs with customs, thanks Brian and all the cells in tip-top condition. I also received my extra can of paint just to finish off the boat. I got the spraying done today as it was 27c at points, which is a great turnaround from all the rain!
    DSC_2486.jpgDSC_2487.jpg

    Since the boat is green I reckon a few monster energy decals should work nicely. I normally like to name my boats but I'm having trouble on this one. Any Ideas?

    Leave a comment:


  • Chrisg81983
    replied
    Tim I mysel make a stuffing tube support very similar to the kintec one I use two triangular pieces of aluminum or cf with a slot in it then I drill out a wheel collar to the same size as brass along with drilling and tapping one hole on each side then cut two aluminum spacers out of round stock a 1/4 inch big to go on the sides of the collar and that's all there is to it it is very easy I been sing these for quite some time now with 1/4 cable with no problems they work great and give you some adjustment up and down

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  • Drax21
    replied
    Originally posted by Chrisg81983 View Post
    Tim that 2nd bend is much better it should work perfect and cause no problems for you
    Thanks Chris. I'm gonna wait a couple days more before I make my own stuffing tube mount. Hoping the one from Kintec arrives. In between that I hope for some good weather(been raining here 70+ hours straight) so I can just paint a few places on the boat where the fruit flies attacked and where I removed an area with the vinyl then I'm going to add a few decals and get the clear coat on.

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  • Chrisg81983
    replied
    Tim that 2nd bend is much better it should work perfect and cause no problems for you

    Leave a comment:


  • martin
    replied
    Looking good to me.

    Leave a comment:


  • Drax21
    replied
    Originally posted by martin View Post
    Not sure how you intend to anneal the tube but dont fill with suger & heat, to anneal the tube you simply heat the area + a bit where you intend to bend. Heat the tube until you see it just just turn dull red colour, you can then either let it cool natrually or quench in cold water. Then do your bending either with sugar or whatever way you are going to do it, be carefull the tube when annealed will bend very easy compared with the bending you were doing on the first piece you done.
    No worries and thanks for the advice, I just had another go. I went a bit hard handed on the first bit of tubing hence the flat spot disaster. Here is the 2nd try. I just bent it really slowly this time

    DSC_2478.jpgDSC_2479.jpgDSC_2481.jpg

    Leave a comment:


  • martin
    replied
    Not sure how you intend to anneal the tube but dont fill with suger & heat, to anneal the tube you simply heat the area + a bit where you intend to bend. Heat the tube until you see it just just turn dull red colour, you can then either let it cool natrually or quench in cold water. Then do your bending either with sugar or whatever way you are going to do it, be carefull the tube when annealed will bend very easy compared with the bending you were doing on the first piece you done.

    Leave a comment:


  • Drax21
    replied
    Originally posted by riptide1 View Post
    I agree with Martin, it's good to bend before you cut, also heat the brass up, not holding the heat on too long, then drop it in water. This is a good way to bend brass smoothly. Hopefully the batteries will arrive shortly ..I was surprised to see USPS routed them to south to Miami, FL before sending them overseas.
    Yeah the batteries have been on quite a journey. Need them here so I can work out the correct spaces to slot them in. I still have a length of brass so start again... fill with sugar heat it up, cool it down, then bend

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  • Drax21
    replied
    Originally posted by martin View Post
    How did you get those kinks in the tube, never seen one as bad as that. Dont know exactly how you done the tube but if you cut it to length first then tried to bend youll have trouble bending towards the end of the tube, i allways leave the tube full length & then bend held in both hands & pulling against both thumbs. With the longer tube you have more leverage & you get a nice curve more in the centre of the tube, you then simply cut the tube to length by taking some off both ends so you get the curve in the right place. If your having problems bending the tube then you can anneal the tube first & it bends much easier with more control.
    Ok right I will try again on the brass. Yeah I heard something about the wires not being able to be shortened. I will just add length then.

    Leave a comment:


  • riptide1
    replied
    I agree with Martin, it's good to bend before you cut, also heat the brass up, not holding the heat on too long, then drop it in water. This is a good way to bend brass smoothly. Hopefully the batteries will arrive shortly ..I was surprised to see USPS routed them to south to Miami, FL before sending them overseas.
    Originally posted by Drax21 View Post
    I think my batteries have been held by customs as they are taking ages to arrive. I wonder what excuse they will come up with to charge me now...... and like I said earlier my stuffing tube support is also taking ages.

    I have a length of tubing left to try again with the bending brass maybe using salt this time as the teflon and cable don't quite fill the tube hence the dimples.
    On another note. I will be sitting the esc on top of the motor mount but that means my wires need to be bendy to enter the esc and the current wires are not. Plan is to shorten them and mostly replace with flexible 8AWG wires. I think the Leopard wires are ok to shorten?

    Leave a comment:


  • martin
    replied
    How did you get those kinks in the tube, never seen one as bad as that. Dont know exactly how you done the tube but if you cut it to length first then tried to bend youll have trouble bending towards the end of the tube, i allways leave the tube full length & then bend held in both hands & pulling against both thumbs. With the longer tube you have more leverage & you get a nice curve more in the centre of the tube, you then simply cut the tube to length by taking some off both ends so you get the curve in the right place. If your having problems bending the tube then you can anneal the tube first & it bends much easier with more control.

    Leave a comment:


  • martin
    replied
    Dont shorten the wires on Leopard motors as the part of the windings & not separate wires, youll have all sorts of bother removing the coating on every single strand of wire to be able to re solder the wire.

    Leave a comment:


  • Drax21
    replied
    I think my batteries have been held by customs as they are taking ages to arrive. I wonder what excuse they will come up with to charge me now...... and like I said earlier my stuffing tube support is also taking ages.

    I have a length of tubing left to try again with the bending brass maybe using salt this time as the teflon and cable don't quite fill the tube hence the dimples.
    On another note. I will be sitting the esc on top of the motor mount but that means my wires need to be bendy to enter the esc and the current wires are not. Plan is to shorten them and mostly replace with flexible 8AWG wires. I think the Leopard wires are ok to shorten?

    Leave a comment:

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