**Guys** help me build a boat DF Cyber Storm 33

[pyroM!KE]

Ive decided to build my very first boat..Im not new to FE boats but I am to building them..I have chosen the DF Cyber Storm hull..I pretty much have my electrics figured out..Im going 6s SK180 leopard 4082 ..
Here are my first questions..Is it better to run teflon in the brass tubing for the flexshaft or not? What size flex shaft size? 3/16??
Im looking for 55mph+ reliably..
Any tips would be well appreciated..
Also..Would this be a good hardware kit for this hull?http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...od=ros-monosys

Ill keep the progress up on here complete with pics..I havent ordered anything yet..I will make a big order monday...

[bill34207]

Hi Mike. For the hull size you are actually in a P boat range (4s 2p) for competition use. Running 6s (Q class) you are allowed up to 40" on a hull.
The hardwre kit you have selected is semi good. The .150 flex is a little wimpy for the power you are looking to apply. You will be better off to get the individual components. Speedmaster 3/16 stinger Speedmaster .21 rudder .187 cable (octura and hughey are good as well but the OSE brand was the 1st I hit scrolling down the page) 1/4" brass tube works well for .187 without a teflon liner. I have stopped using the teflon in my boats as it has cost me a couple of flex cables after it started spinning inside the brass tube and the friction melted it to the point of sticking. Pick a motor coupler to match your motor's shaft size and the .187 cable.
I run a Neu 1521/1Y (1577 kv) motor in my DF33 with anywhere from an Octura X447/3 to X450/3 prop depending on water conditions and it runs well in the P mono class.

[pyroM!KE]

Yeah Ive got about everything in the cart.. I am getting the hardware you suggested..Also what do you think about a m545 prop? Would that be a good starting point? I am going with the SK180 and leapord 4082 1550 2y on 6s..

[bill34207]

You may overload your esc on 6s with the m545. You could easily get away with running a m645 on 4s though. I had the Neu in a Genesis cat at one time and ran it on 6s there but with a X640 to X642. The 642 only made it a couple of mph faster and really put a load on the batts. Running 6s 1p it was coming in with the packs around 140 degrees.

[LarrysDrifter]

You can start with an X445. For full eat mode and cool temps, use an X447/3. The latter prop will put you at 60-62 mph on gps.

[pyroM!KE]

Hi Mike. For the hull size you are actually in a P boat range (4s 2p) for competition use. Running 6s (Q class) you are allowed up to 40" on a hull.
The hardwre kit you have selected is semi good. The .150 flex is a little wimpy for the power you are looking to apply. You will be better off to get the individual components. Speedmaster 3/16 stinger Speedmaster .21 rudder .187 cable (octura and hughey are good as well but the OSE brand was the 1st I hit scrolling down the page) 1/4" brass tube works well for .187 without a teflon liner. I have stopped using the teflon in my boats as it has cost me a couple of flex cables after it started spinning inside the brass tube and the friction melted it to the point of sticking. Pick a motor coupler to match your motor's shaft size and the .187 cable.
I run a Neu 1521/1Y (1577 kv) motor in my DF33 with anywhere from an Octura X447/3 to X450/3 prop depending on water conditions and it runs well in the P mono class.

So when you ran the x447 and x450 was it on 6s?

[bill34207]

No. I'm running it on 4s 2p in my DF33 mono. Here's a P mono heat from a couple runs back with the 447 3 blade. Mine is the white one. Didn't realize it until watching the video but did 8 laps on our 1/6 mile course. (I cut a marker and meant to run 7 for the penalty lap). It was still less than 120 degrees on everything in the boat when I brought it in. The one boat that did pass me was RayR's with a Lep 4082 2200 kv. Unfortunately, his motor self destructed about the time he got by and he coasted off to the inside of the course.

[pyroM!KE]

Another questiuon..What is the best resin to use on the motor mount and stuffing tube? Also.Is this hull pretty tough..Do I need to reinforce it?
What is the best method to bond this mount to hull? http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...prod=ose-80600

[bill34207]

I suppose everybody has their own methods but I use 30 minute Zpoxy mixed with milled fiberglass for sticking down that type of mount. If you want to be really sure of it's attachment come back after it's cured with a strip of 5 oz glass cloth that goes up past the holes in the bottom of the mount and about an inch onto the hull.
On the hull itself, I'm not that familiar with the cyber storm. My DF33 had 4" rails pre installed in it when it came in new. (and contribute greatly to bottom strength) It has survived a few years of abuse so far but getting close to needing replacement. About one more "incident" that results in structural damage and I'll be building a new one.

[pyroM!KE]

I suppose everybody has their own methods but I use 30 minute Zpoxy mixed with milled fiberglass for sticking down that type of mount. If you want to be really sure of it's attachment come back after it's cured with a strip of 5 oz glass cloth that goes up past the holes in the bottom of the mount and about an inch onto the hull.
On the hull itself, I'm not that familiar with the cyber storm. My DF33 had 4" rails pre installed in it when it came in new. (and contribute greatly to bottom strength) It has survived a few years of abuse so far but getting close to needing replacement. About one more "incident" that results in structural damage and I'll be building a new one.

Im a newb at this so bear with me..Where do you get milled fiberglass? Also..Im gonna install the Speedmaster stinger..How do you determine where exactly to drill the stuffing hole and mount Stinger mount?

[bill34207]

We were all newbies at one time or another and I'm still no expert. I get my milled glass from a local hobby shop but if you don't have one it can be found at Tower. http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXK312&P=7
Easiest way I've found (had suggested to me when I was still a newb) to locate the stinger is to use double sided tape. Mark your vertical center line on the transom and use the double sided tape to stick the stinger to it with the center of the stinger centered on the mark you made on the transom. On mine the bottom of the stinger is about 3/32 to 1/8" from the bottom of the ride pad. You can actually use the stinger base as a drilling template with this method.

[pyroM!KE]

We were all newbies at one time or another and I'm still no expert. I get my milled glass from a local hobby shop but if you don't have one it can be found at Tower. http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXK312&P=7
Easiest way I've found (had suggested to me when I was still a newb) to locate the stinger is to use double sided tape. Mark your vertical center line on the transom and use the double sided tape to stick the stinger to it with the center of the stinger centered on the mark you made on the transom. On mine the bottom of the stinger is about 3/32 to 1/8" from the bottom of the ride pad. You can actually use the stinger base as a drilling template with this method.

Bill i appreciate all your help.. Using the stinger as a template, can you explain more how to do that..Im not sure I understand how your saying..

Also..Should I get medium (68mm) or large (75mm)turn fins? how do I determine the placement of the turn fins on the transom ?

[bill34207]

Wish I had a hull that needed drilling. Photos can help a lot when trying to explain something like this. OK we'll try anyways. Transom marked with vertical center line (for centering the stinger) Stinger gets removed from the base (this has to be done to access the top mounting bolt hole anyways). Double sided tape (I use a thin clear tape) is applied to the stinger base and position it so the base is centered over the line you made on the transom and with the bottom of it about 3/32" up from the bottom of the ride pad. Drill the mounting holes first then pop the base back off. Open up the mounting holes to the size specified in the sheet that comes with the Speedmaster stinger. Bolt the stinger to the hull and then drill the stuffing tibe hole. Best I recall, the opening in the stinger is either 1/4" or possibly 9/32". Use a short piece of tubing that does fit the hole in the stinger and a drill bit that fits inside the tube. Put the tube in place in the stinger's base hole then drill down through it and through the hull.

On the fins, use the large ones. They should be placed as far outboard as possible and set so the fins are at a 90 degree angle to the hull's V. I do have a photo of the placement for these from my 47" mono.

[pyroM!KE]

Ok.I think I have everything I need in the cart..Before I order everything is there anything recommended to get to assist building? tools ect... anything to help with the build..

[bill34207]

If you have a drill & bits, assorted allen wrenches, some small sockets or nut drivers, pliers, screwdrivers, etc you should be good to go.
Things I'm bad about forgetting are the cooling line bulhead fittings and water exits, prop dogs, prop nuts etc.