Norwegian CF daytona!

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  • HYDROJERRY
    Fast Electric Addict!
    • Jan 2010
    • 2503

    #31
    I used thin .78 washers, i ran out of cf plate but i would have done them the same way as yours Bruiser!!! I have the dual water pickups but theres no room to cut and put them in so to simplify it i removed 2 of the nipples from one of them and drilled holes and screwed them threw the hull and i will epoxy them and flip the boat over and cut a small angle in them,, they are much smaller so there easyer to put in..

    Comment

    • Peacock8
      Member
      • Jun 2011
      • 97

      #32
      Started soldering all the motor plugs and battery plugs on the esc today. I have this sport Bec i bought at OSE. Should I just solder it to the lines on one of the esc´s to get power to it. The wiring diagram that came with it puzzles me :D

      This one:
      http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...ortbec&cat=136

      Edit: Found a better guide at dimensionengineering.com. It was just as I predicted :) I´ll solder the two remaining plugs now :)

      Ørjan.
      Last edited by Peacock8; 08-30-2011, 09:38 AM.

      Comment

      • Peacock8
        Member
        • Jun 2011
        • 97

        #33
        Here´s how the setup will be. Of course there will be a mount for the esc. Any pointers on the cooling line flow? Should I cool the jacket before the motor mount?



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        • PapaGriz
          Scale OSFE Rookie
          • Jul 2011
          • 84

          #34
          Wow, that's close quarters. I have no advice to give you but I am really enjoying watching this build.
          It's a beautiful boat.

          Comment

          • Peacock8
            Member
            • Jun 2011
            • 97

            #35
            Yeah, and even then I get a little bend on the flex shaft :D

            Ørjan.

            Comment

            • lars_01
              Senior Member
              • Nov 2009
              • 112

              #36
              Looking real good!
              I think your motors are near horizontal, but i should put the incoming tube at the bottom intake. Motormount last, hotest spot of motor is at the rearend ballbearing, that´s what i experienced.
              I should use a higher Amp bec (http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...c&cat=136)just to be safe.
              Lasse
              111

              Comment

              • HYDROJERRY
                Fast Electric Addict!
                • Jan 2010
                • 2503

                #37
                Hay Peacock have you put everything in it to see how heavy it is,,, mine is super heavy but have never done a twin so maybe its suppose to be like this.. PS im using 2 ETTI 150a esc's are those 80's going to be enough..

                Comment

                • Peacock8
                  Member
                  • Jun 2011
                  • 97

                  #38
                  Yeah, I have tried it. It´s a heavy boat when it´s done. I have taken advice from Benjamin at Fightercat about the esc´s. I believe he knows what he talks about! So the 80´s is going to be enough.

                  Ørjan.

                  Comment

                  • Peacock8
                    Member
                    • Jun 2011
                    • 97

                    #39
                    How about this? Silicon tube sliced up on one side and pushed on the hull lip. Of course going to glue it to the hull. I was thinking putting a tube with a bigger diameter on the inside lip of the hatch to get two silicone tubes squeezing together. I´m going to use 4 hatch bolts(Thumb screews) to secure the hatch down. I was hoping to get a solid seal so I could run without the tape... I´ll see what I can put together. Here´s a pic.

                    Comment

                    • HYDROJERRY
                      Fast Electric Addict!
                      • Jan 2010
                      • 2503

                      #40
                      Why not just put a seal on the inner lip and just bolt it down with the 4 bolts,, a seal like you would get for you home screan door and let the hatch pinch down on it,, think thats what im going to do!!!

                      Comment

                      • Peacock8
                        Member
                        • Jun 2011
                        • 97

                        #41
                        I´m not sure what seal you mean. Only problem I see would be bending it around the corners if it´s a flat seal.

                        Ørjan.

                        Comment

                        • HYDROJERRY
                          Fast Electric Addict!
                          • Jan 2010
                          • 2503

                          #42
                          I got some at home ill take a pic and post it tonight,,,id just cut it and place it edge to edge and if you want put a tad of clear silicone between those edges to make it solid..

                          Comment

                          • Peacock8
                            Member
                            • Jun 2011
                            • 97

                            #43
                            I made this wire diagram to see what I need to make. I´ll use 2 4c 5000mah nano techs. I´ll hook them up in series to get 8 cells total.

                            I have this cap spark kit from fightercat where should i place the capasitor and resistor? I have drawn it in between the two batteries.
                            Any advice/comments?

                            Edit: If anybody wonders I´m going to remove the spark kit on the esc´s I don´t need two and it takes up to much space.

                            Last edited by Peacock8; 09-08-2011, 05:16 PM.

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                            • Peacock8
                              Member
                              • Jun 2011
                              • 97

                              #44
                              Here´s the finished motor mount, well it lacks the epoxy putty around the base of the alu mount. The putty is rock hard so the mount isn´t going anywhere.
                              The back supportplate is removable by two screws. The nuts are glued on the inside since i cant get tool under when its glued into the boat.




                              Here´s what I did design wise. Got some pactra trim tape from kintec. I like the black orange combo. I think I will use orange waterlines from the rudder also.



                              Got the hatch attachment issue sorted out. Got this multipurpose seal. Ill have a seal in the canopy that pushes against the one in the boat. It will be totally waterproof. The white messy stuff is silicone. I used blind nuts that are glued under the hatch lip for the thumb screw mounts.

                              Comment

                              • Peacock8
                                Member
                                • Jun 2011
                                • 97

                                #45


                                7 image posting rule......

                                Edit: Yeah the thumb screws have o-rings attached.

                                Ørjan.

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