I used thin .78 washers, i ran out of cf plate but i would have done them the same way as yours Bruiser!!! I have the dual water pickups but theres no room to cut and put them in so to simplify it i removed 2 of the nipples from one of them and drilled holes and screwed them threw the hull and i will epoxy them and flip the boat over and cut a small angle in them,, they are much smaller so there easyer to put in..
Norwegian CF daytona!
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Started soldering all the motor plugs and battery plugs on the esc today. I have this sport Bec i bought at OSE. Should I just solder it to the lines on one of the esc´s to get power to it. The wiring diagram that came with it puzzles me :D
This one:
http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...ortbec&cat=136
Edit: Found a better guide at dimensionengineering.com. It was just as I predicted :) I´ll solder the two remaining plugs now :)
Ørjan.Last edited by Peacock8; 08-30-2011, 09:38 AM.
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Looking real good!
I think your motors are near horizontal, but i should put the incoming tube at the bottom intake. Motormount last, hotest spot of motor is at the rearend ballbearing, that´s what i experienced.
I should use a higher Amp bec (http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...c&cat=136)just to be safe.
Lasse111
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Hay Peacock have you put everything in it to see how heavy it is,,, mine is super heavy but have never done a twin so maybe its suppose to be like this.. PS im using 2 ETTI 150a esc's are those 80's going to be enough..
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How about this? Silicon tube sliced up on one side and pushed on the hull lip. Of course going to glue it to the hull. I was thinking putting a tube with a bigger diameter on the inside lip of the hatch to get two silicone tubes squeezing together. I´m going to use 4 hatch bolts(Thumb screews) to secure the hatch down. I was hoping to get a solid seal so I could run without the tape... I´ll see what I can put together. Here´s a pic.
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Why not just put a seal on the inner lip and just bolt it down with the 4 bolts,, a seal like you would get for you home screan door and let the hatch pinch down on it,, think thats what im going to do!!!
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I got some at home ill take a pic and post it tonight,,,id just cut it and place it edge to edge and if you want put a tad of clear silicone between those edges to make it solid..
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I made this wire diagram to see what I need to make. I´ll use 2 4c 5000mah nano techs. I´ll hook them up in series to get 8 cells total.
I have this cap spark kit from fightercat where should i place the capasitor and resistor? I have drawn it in between the two batteries.
Any advice/comments?
Edit: If anybody wonders I´m going to remove the spark kit on the esc´s I don´t need two and it takes up to much space.
Last edited by Peacock8; 09-08-2011, 05:16 PM.
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Here´s the finished motor mount, well it lacks the epoxy putty around the base of the alu mount. The putty is rock hard so the mount isn´t going anywhere.
The back supportplate is removable by two screws. The nuts are glued on the inside since i cant get tool under when its glued into the boat.



Here´s what I did design wise. Got some pactra trim tape from kintec. I like the black orange combo. I think I will use orange waterlines from the rudder also.


Got the hatch attachment issue sorted out. Got this multipurpose seal. Ill have a seal in the canopy that pushes against the one in the boat. It will be totally waterproof. The white messy stuff is silicone. I used blind nuts that are glued under the hatch lip for the thumb screw mounts.
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