Thanks i used the West Marine Systems two part resin,, brushed it in, i was told to dab it up wright after but i liked the thicker wet look!!PS i have the same motor mounts,, what nipples did you put on yours, the factory ones aim straight up..
37" FighterCat Daytona Project
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If I just use some balsa and laminate it (layer it with glue), won't that be just as good for the transom support? Is there any other reason against balsa use? That's what everyone has told me to use so far.
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Originally posted by ivoryman50 View PostSo I finally was able to work on pretty much all of the hardware for the boat. I'm really please with how it came out and it was a lot easier than I expected. Here are the pictures of what got done. A question I have about mounting the brass tubing is, how far down into the stingers should they go? If I put them all the way, there won't be any adjustment. Do I mount it to a balsa support and just barely put it down in so that grease doesn't fly everywhere? Thanks for the help.
The brass should only go about 10mm into the stingers. Then seal the contact point with epoxy so they stay put. The liner should go slightly further, to prevent any metal to metal with the flex shaft.
Shorten the brass and the flex though, so they aren't the full 300mm. They come extra long as a generic length. I try to keep the length from the tip of the stinger with the prop installs to the front of the motor 10 inches or less. The less length, the less resistance too. Also, the shorter the cable, the stronger it is.FighterCatRacing Team CHING BLING - Ching Bling. Brilliant, Advanced Sparkle for your hull.
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So this isn't specifically about my boat, but I got a Pelican 1200 case today and just made a transmitter case out of it. Really happy with how it turned out.Attached Files
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looks good thow,,,i made a box to carry a bunch of stuff with me to the lake and i just have my controllers standing up in it,,ill post a pic soon,, i to was very happy with it seeing im not a carpender or anything..
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its etti 90 degree fitting found here at OSE Product ID: etti-a030. another observation made, its is more ideal to fit the silicon jacket if you have decided to use inrunner motors such as 2200KV. the can jacket will not fit into the hull because of those tall 90 degress nipples.
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Run 0.187 cables if you going for high RPMS. My new pair of 0.157 cables went like chinese instant noodles after 2 passes only.
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lay some glass to secure the motor mounts like i did for more added insurance. the mounts will not hold well enough if you tack the three points only.
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I was finally able to get my motor mounts tacked in so they hold and I was wondering if anyone had any suggestions/secrets about applying epoxy to the whole motor mount. I have a double tube syringe that you need to mix first and then apply, but the applicator is tiny and it's hard to build it up around the mount itself. Any suggestions would be great. Thanks.
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if the epoxy is the VERY SLOW drying stuff, let GRAVITY be your helper.
mix it up stuff it in place, wait a while, tilt the hull to what ever angle you need, wait a while, do the same thing until you are happy
with the coverage.
dont use a whole mess of the stuff as you will need to put a layer of glass cloth on afterwards.
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You can also use an "epoxy brush" or other similar small brush and apply it that way.
I use old paint caps and small paint brushes to mix & apply the epoxy from bulk mixes. The brushes are throw aways.FighterCatRacing Team CHING BLING - Ching Bling. Brilliant, Advanced Sparkle for your hull.
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I finally got my ESCs in and want to order the props. I would like to know if there is a three blade I would be able to use. Also, if I get cheaper ones for testing, would I just have to match the pitch and diameter? Not really sure how this prop stuff works.
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I just went to the OSE store to order props and can't seem to find the matching carbon filled prop for grp-2317.42. Am I missing something?Last edited by ivoryman50; 09-04-2012, 09:42 AM.
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