I also had a question about props. Would it be safe to run a 3 blade prop at all? I just really like the look of them. I think the only Octura out there like that is the x450. Is that too big or can that somehow be run? Thanks.
37" FighterCat Daytona Project
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Anyone on the help for how to make the holes to mount everything? Looking forward to getting a majority of that work done this week/weekend and I want to make sure I do it right.
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Start off with the tiniest bit you have for a pilot hole, then switch over to the correct sized bit. Use a dremmel or high speed AC powered drill. Not a slow spinning chordless. Use high speed and very light pressure to prevent chipping the gelcoat.
Be carefull with the Great Stuff. It has been written that it can continue to expand and possibly damage a hull. I use the two part expanding foam from US Composites.
Octura make a 447/3Mike Chirillo
www.capitolrcmodelboats.com
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My bad. I got mixed up between three blades and counter rotating props.Mike Chirillo
www.capitolrcmodelboats.com
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Dont use spray foam it will distort your boat it also soaks up water,get some pool noodles cut em up and use that at least you can pull it out if needed and it wont damage your boat.
Mart
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The spray foam is already in there and I was told to use the specific type by many members here on the forums. Just have to use the non-forceful expanding foam which is the window and door specific one.
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The problem with that type of foam is not expansion, but contraction. I used it in a hydro and it worked great - for about a year. Then after the boat was in the summer sun the foam started to shrink. Because it was well-stuck to the top and bottom of the hull it pulled the deck down, warping the deck. I used a knife and hacksaw blade to separate the foam from the underside of the deck, and the deck sprang back up.
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So I finally was able to work on pretty much all of the hardware for the boat. I'm really please with how it came out and it was a lot easier than I expected. Here are the pictures of what got done. A question I have about mounting the brass tubing is, how far down into the stingers should they go? If I put them all the way, there won't be any adjustment. Do I mount it to a balsa support and just barely put it down in so that grease doesn't fly everywhere? Thanks for the help.
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Ur brass tube should have a small portion just sticking out of the transom of ur mounting area. The key is to have adjustable stingers in neg or positive deg. I do recommend that u should apply marine silicon prior at all screws from the rudder mount to ur stingers mounting plate to prevent water entering ur hull
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From ur first picture Fabricate a pair of Wood/carbon fiber transom face plate and epoxy to ur screws mounting section to strengthen the rear
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I agree with battlefury,,, im doing the Carbon cat also and youll need the plates inside at the strut mounting areas for strength,,
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nice carbon layup. Sleek and wet look nicely done. how did you get that effect?
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