JAE FE21 Build Fiberglass

[Eric Bourlet]

Any updates? I just sent the paperwork off to NAMBA for a 1 minute 23 second competition mile record that I ran on Saturday


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[electric]

Well Eric, it ran great for a few laps and then died. The cheap supo esc I tried out died. I was running the data logger and never pulled much more than 130amps. The supo was rated at 200amps. I am going to get a swordfish esc for it and will let you know how it goes. The top speed was the low 50's. On vacation this week, but when I get back home I will post some data.

[Eric Bourlet]

So how does it drive?

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[LuckyDuc]

I am running a 2200kv Castle Motor so it is going to pull more amps than a UL1 motor I think, Much physically larger motor. The 160 was just a momentary peak.

The above chart was with a UL-1 motor.

[electric]

I am running a 2200kv Castle Motor so it is going to pull more amps than a UL1 motor I think, Much physically larger motor. The 160 was just a momentary peak.

[LuckyDuc]

A spike of 160 amps is not all that difficult to believe. The chart below spiked at 151 amps during take off and had a MAX speed of 55.6mph.

[Eric Bourlet]

wow 160? the most I have seen with my UL1 motor is 130 and that is at 60 mph

[electric]

I did a test run at a small pond by my house this morning and gps's 52mph and max of 160amps. I really think it will go much faster, just need more room to really open it up. At least I know I am in the ball park and will post some new data once I get it to a bigger body of water.

[electric]

The fact that epoxy glass hulls need sealed is a well known. That is why when I listed them I pointed out that they were epoxy glass and needed sanded filled and painted. If you put enough epoxy in the layup that it has no pin holes it will be a weaker and heavier layup. That is why I listed them the way I did when I posted them. You can either brush some epoxy over that area or use thin CA , either way dont use too much,that should fix the problem. I can't wait to hear back how it runs.

Thanks Eric, unfortunately I have close to zero experience working with unfinnished epoxy glass hulls. I did paint on a nice THIN layer of 30 minute epoxy on the unpainted portion last night. Again, not an issue about your hull at all, just something new to me. Part of the hobby is leaning new things. Now I know.

I hope to put all back together today and take it our for a test run.

[Eric Bourlet]

The fact that epoxy glass hulls need sealed is a well known. That is why when I listed them I pointed out that they were epoxy glass and needed sanded filled and painted. If you put enough epoxy in the layup that it has no pin holes it will be a weaker and heavier layup. That is why I listed them the way I did when I posted them. You can either brush some epoxy over that area or use thin CA , either way dont use too much,that should fix the problem. I can't wait to hear back how it runs.

[LuckyDuc]

Yeah, that can happen with glass hulls. I use a 2 part epoxy primer on my fiber glass nitro boats to prevent the fuel from seeping through and underneath the paint causing it to bubble from the inside out. Learned the hard way awhile back.

[electric]

Found something new and interesting last night that I thought I should share with the other owners of the fiberglass hulls. I was looking for my leak and guess where I found it? I glued down the ski on the main hull and then painted it. This means that the hull portion that is under the ski has no paint. Get this, the water is seeping through the fiberglass into the hull. Doesn't happen right away, you have to let a sit a bit and then it literally comes through the glass. So, I am pulling out the insides and putting down a thin coat of epoxy to resolve it.

As they say, there is always something new and different with the hobby. Not a big deal to correct though.

[electric]

You noticed that stand eh? Chuckle, I am boat stand deprived, it was all I could find to use at the moment...

[Insaniac]

More pics. Notice the small piece of metal I have on the servo. I never noticed before that those traxxas waterproof servo's have a small "bump" on the case which creates a slight mounting issue. You can't really see it, but there is a dreaded bit of water in there. I much prefer my hulls to be completely dry.

Looks like a MiniCatRacing boat stand!

[electric]

Yes, I replaced the servo on my FE-30 with the same one and ran into a mounting bracket issue because of the small "bump" in the case...never noticed that before either!
Have you tried the digital version?

No, I can't say that I have tried it yet. Does it not have that "bump"? By the way, I really have had good luck with these Traxxas water proof servo's. I know there are probably better ones out there technically, but these have been great with no failures.