JAE FE21 Build Fiberglass

[Scott T]

Electric, that ski looks better, should be right like that.

[electric]

Decided to correct the mistake on the center ski. I have a good stationary belt sander so I carefully took the wood off on the leading edge. I then fashioned a seperate piece of wood to get the desired effect on the ski. I have not glued it in place because I want to get some response to what I have done before I make it permanent.

Does the length of the wood look right?

As far as the keeping a sharp edge on the length of the center ski, I have some ideas how I will accomplish that.

[electric]

Thanks again for all the help. Just got back in town this evening. I am heading out for the long weekend in the morning. Hopefully, I will have some time to work on it Monday. Never enough free time!!!

[properchopper]

Hey Jim,

If you go with the T-180 and use the banjo fittings, you'll have a width of 168 mm to deal with side-to-side with the banjo's installed. The early T-180 hose barbs unscrewed fairly easily; the latest T-180's have some sealant holding them in pretty tight, and when gripped with pliers to screw them out , the barbs collapse and can break off. Do this :

Insert a 9/64" drill bit into the barb. This will keep it from collapsing when you grip it. I use a needle-nose vice grip.

Hit the area where the barb enters the cooling plate with a small butane torch flame to heat and expand the joint.

Say a prayer to the FE God, and unscrew.

Put some sealant on the banjo threads, be careful not to get the sealant into the passage of the banjo & install.

Here's one I did today for a customer's FE 30 and my P-Sport Fe 30 - room for 4S2P using the banjos. Worked also to stuff a T-180 in my tunnel

Nice build; like the glass tub. May have to try one of them riggeramajiggers

Tony

[Eric Bourlet]

Looking good Electric. I got one of these from Eric as well, so I'm watching your thread with interest.

Just a note on the ski, the wood should be in two pieces. The long back section goes on first, then the front of it is sanded to match the front of the ski (glass part). Then the front wood part is glued on with a slight overhang - just like the front of the sponsons. Download the instructions from Zippkit and it shows what I'm talking about.

Cheers,
Scott

Good points Scott the entire reason I did not attach the sheeting is to allow it to be done after it's painted so that you can get sharp edges. These boats rely on the sharp edges to keep it freed up. This allows you to pull larger props and go faster because they work using Bernoulli rather than fighting it. When done right the bottom of these are not a show piece they need to be block sanded for sharp edges and that little overhang at the front helps too. Now that it looks like you have it sanded to blend I would not redo it but make sure that you block sand it to an angle and not rounded in.

[battlefury]

Opps. My bad it should be Banjo fittings priced at 5 bucks.
You would want your T180 to fit so it these low profile fittings to go along.
Alternatively, a much safer bet would be a suppo ESC 200A. That definatley will fit i am sure.

[electric]

Squeeze it in. It can be purchase at kintec racing at 8 bucks each. Heres how it will look in the end.

Thanks!
Is this the right one's description..?

90 Degree High Flow Water Fittings Since there are no high flow 90 degree micro fittings in any industry Kintec answers the demand. Soon to be the standard in boat fittings these are made with you in mind. Fully adjustable to point in any direction. Small and compact made of brass and comes with fitted o-rings. 10-32 thread.

[battlefury]

I agree with what you are saying and have also wondered wheter a 120 can handle it. hmm. Do you know where I can get the correct 90 degree fittings? I may go ahead an squeeze in the t180 since I have it.

Squeeze it in. It can be purchase at kintec racing at 8 bucks each. Heres how it will look in the end.

[electric]

Looking good Electric. I got one of these from Eric as well, so I'm watching your thread with interest.

Just a note on the ski, the wood should be in two pieces. The long back section goes on first, then the front of it is sanded to match the front of the ski (glass part). Then the front wood part is glued on with a slight overhang - just like the front of the sponsons. Download the instructions from Zippkit and it shows what I'm talking about.

Cheers,
Scott

Hmmm.. Scott,l guess when I get back home and have some time I will re-examine the instructions. I did figure that I would just flush up the wood with the fiberglass under the strut since that still presents a sharp edge and overhang on the back side of the skid.

I think I understand what you are saying about the front part of the center skid, will recheck the instructions...

Thanks for the feedback!

[electric]

watch out because that castle/neu 2200 will eat a 120 esc right away. i ran a 1415 neu 2200 and used the t180 with a different water cooling plate and it worked well. properchopper has some tips on one of his insane hydro threads on using 90 degree fittings that would also work.
http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...ght=neu+rigger

I agree with what you are saying and have also wondered whether a 120 can handle it. hmm. Do you know where I can get the correct 90 degree fittings? I may go ahead an squeeze in the t180 since I have it.

[Scott T]

Looking good Electric. I got one of these from Eric as well, so I'm watching your thread with interest.

Just a note on the ski, the wood should be in two pieces. The long back section goes on first, then the front of it is sanded to match the front of the ski (glass part). Then the front wood part is glued on with a slight overhang - just like the front of the sponsons. Download the instructions from Zippkit and it shows what I'm talking about.

Cheers,
Scott

[Chuck E Cheese]

watch out because that castle/neu 2200 will eat a 120 esc right away. i ran a 1415 neu 2200 and used the t180 with a different water cooling plate and it worked well. properchopper has some tips on one of his insane hydro threads on using 90 degree fittings that would also work.
http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...ght=neu+rigger

[electric]

A few more for the record...

[electric]

Epoxied on the piece underneath, then the same for the wood that goes over the fiberglass. Just got though doing a whole lot of sanding to blend the wood and fiberglass piece together. That will do it for tonight.

[electric]

The build continues. Seems like the new struts are different than the ones pictured at zippkits. Improved I think, because you have a two piece mount that allows you some room to slide the strut up and down to fit properly. I also found it interesting how the 1/4" tube goes through the strut completely and then the sleeve fits inside the brass tube that is in turn inside the strut.