Wrapping DF Cyber Storm 32 around 1717

[LarrysDrifter]

Bob is a very very creative person.Always has great ideas and does good work.Damn,I just gave you a compliment.

[suckmywake]

Again with this boat I wanted to try something different with the tabs. I am not a fan of trim tabs and think they are mainly used as hrdw bling on the back of the boat. Yet I am putting them on this boat. I like the bling. I have my reasons. I want to be able to adjust mounting height on transom along with easily able to adjust how far out from center line the tabs sit on hull. I elongated the holes in the SS tabs so I can adjust mounting height from being flush with bottom of hull to up 1/8” up. I glued AL plates on inside of transom and drilled and tapped the mounting holes in Al. I drilled two set of holes ¼” apart and will use long setscrews to seal holes not in use. I can now easily move tabs from outside the hull with only a hex and not have to worry about nuts on inside. This way I can adjust the hulls ride height by moving tabs in or out. With the tab more toward center of hull the boat will ride a little higher. With tabs moved out the transom will sink a little lower.

[suckmywake]

I got the rails, stuffing tube and supports glued in. I am real happy the way the adjustable flood tube on stuffing tube worked out with servo boot. I ran cooling lines and esc/servo wiring thru stuffing tube supports for a clean look. I am adding foam around the stuffing tube to help with floatation. This boat will weight in at 10 1/2lbs with 1717 with 4 5000mah 3s batts so every little bit of floatation foam helps. I got all hardware mounted on back and piano wire drive made. This boat turned out rock solid. I am not unhappy that I put the extra effort in adding the two extra layers of fiberglass all the way up to hatch opening and on hatch with one layer on deck. The rails are 24” long and extend from bottom of hull up to deck

[JMSCARD]

Very Nice Clean Build!! I like the layout for sure!

[suckmywake]

Thanks for the kind words.

[suckmywake]

I ruff cut some styrofoam for floatation and use spray can expand-a-foam to fill in gaps. If you look close in center pic you can see the ¼ “ of spray foam around out side of Styrofoam in center of boat. This method worked out great and is lighter than just pure expand-a-foam. The bow is very ridged and strong now. With the foam done I was able to install motor.

[johnson22456]

"ruff cut" who are you kidding? The foam turned out awesome, and that's probably an under statement.

Now get the rest done so we can see it run this weekend.

[Jeff Wohlt]

VERY nice! Sounding more like Larry, MO and Curly on here. LOL...guess I am going to have to drive down there this summer and bring the big guns :)

[johnson22456]

VERY nice! Sounding more like Larry, MO and Curly on here. LOL...guess I am going to have to drive down there this summer and bring the big guns :)

Better bring some biggens. There's some pretty quick boats on this side of the Show Me State.

[LarrysDrifter]

Come on with it,Jeff. We're ready.:)

[suckmywake]

Will I guess Larry should be Larry but he looks more like Curly. Eric looks most like Larry. That leaves me as Moe. Come on down Jeff you can be Shemp or Joe. I don’t want to be Shemp or Joe.

[TotalPackage]

You talented boy clean az. install .

[suckmywake]

I made a front hatch hold down with a piece of wood with blind nuts that was resin to the hatch then clothed over. A piece of Al was fab. and bolted to that to make a tight fit. I might glue piece of wood under hull deck in front of hatch lip to help disperse any stress on hatch flange from AL. The back hold downs are cheap and easy and is just SS rod that was screwed in to the rails with SS acorn nuts and a rubber washer on top. Yea, I like things that are cheap and easy.

[suckmywake]

The weekend before last got the boat all together and made maiden run. I had small issues. I flipped the boat and bent the hatch and cracked up the gel coat on it. I reinforced hatch way stronger that I thought it needed by adding two extra layer of glass to it but it wasn’t enough. The hatch caved in and wedged itself in the hull opening on its first flip. The front of the hatch was pushed back enough force to clear the lip in hatch opening of hull and wedged itself cockeyed in the hatch opening. The hold downs in the back of the hatch held great. This really was a shock that the hatch fail. I can’t stress enough of how strong this hatch was. It was not easy to bend the hatch to remove from being wedged in. I think it was just an unlucky hit that just hit in the wrong place. I know if hatch wasn’t as strong as it was it would be in two pieces. The masking tape in the pic is showing where the hatch bent. It bent toward the back where it is flatter and has the vent indents and not as concaved as cockpit area. After this mishap I added another layer of FG to hatch and added rails to it. I am running a 1/4:” stuffing tube with a Teflon liner and ceramic bearings in strut. I have found with this set up I do not need to use a lot of grease on the piano wire. I just put a little on wire drive in middle where I contacts the Teflon from the slight stuffing tube bend. I pull wire out for storage after a day of running. I have run boat few times working on getting the set up better and better. So far fastest GPS reading has been 58 with an x447 prop running 6s1p. Motor and esc temps are great after the runs with batts coming in warm. I am now running an x548 and seem to be faster but have not gps this prop or put my eagle tree in boat yet. I think the 1p might be limiting my speed and will be trying 2p shortly.

[JPriami]

Nice build. Love the Keep up Larry sticker lmao. I am to wonder if you do some sort of electrical work after seeing it all hooked up and run. Looks like your used to making wiring look neat and secured. Plus I see a bunch of flex in that last pic lol.