Wrapping DF Cyber Storm 32 around 1717

[suckmywake]

Lets me start of buy saying I am going to over build this boat due to the fact I am going to punish it. I will be trying two different motors in this boat. I could not pass up the deals @ Castle and picked up a1520-1600kv and 1717-1580kv. I will be making the motor mount my self so to be able to hold both motors and see which one I like the best.

Planed setup
* 32” Df Cyber Storm (2 layers of extra fiberglass)
* 1520 and/or 1717 (1717 is 3oz heavier than the 1520)
* 6s1p and/or 6s2p (I like running smaller props higher rpm)
* Seaking T180 with external bec (will be adding caps and mod. water cooling)
* Flood Tube with .098 piano wire drive
* Jeff Wohlts Bearing Strut (mod. for more setback)
* Accu-Tech long trim tabs (mounted up 1/8” above bottom of hull)
* Small OSE turn fins


The first things I made a boat stand.

The boat stand was made also as a C.O.G. balancer.

[suckmywake]

I added two layers of heavy weight fiberglass to hull bottom. Each layer is one piece of cloth and extends from bow to transom and wraps up the sides to hatch opening. One layer of heavy weight cloth added on deck of bow and one layer on transom to reinforce the hull and deck seam of transom. Two layers on hatch. All extra fiberglass resin was squeezed out wiped up and removed with paper towel before curing to keep strength up and weight down. Hull and hatch weigh now about 2 lbs 9 oz. I did not think to weigh hull stock. It looks like running weight of boat will be about 8 lbs 8 oz with 1717 and qty= 2 5000mah 3cells and 10 lbs 6 oz with 1717 and qty=4 5000mah 3 cells.


I fabricated two rails out of ¼” light plywood. They are 24” long and extend far into the bow. The rails in the bow and transom extend up to the deck. They are scribed along hull and deck to match contour of boats hull. The rails will be mounted 4” apart.

[LarrysDrifter]

This looks to be a fun build to watch.Id like to see this one run!

[suckmywake]

Pic of mock up COG
I want to thank properchopper for his help with some COG info on Cyber Storms. The motor will be mounted low in front due to piano wire drive. The Esc will be above the stuffing tube and batts in back. The servo will be outside the rail on starboard side close to transom lying on its side. If I want or need to run 6s2p the addition batts will be place outside rail @ COG. With extra fiberglass in hull I am having some problems getting low percent COG. I think the extra weight of fiberglass added a lot of weight to the bow of the boat since hull is mostly bow.

[suckmywake]

This is pic. of the parts for the motor mount. Since I’m going to run two different dia. and length motors with same mount it calls for some creative problem solving. I think motor mount will be a sandwich of 1/8” Al and 2.5mm carbon fiber. I hope the carbon fiber will keep the Al from bending and the Al will keep the carbon fiber from snapping. Right now I am not planning on a front mount or support for the motors but have some ideas and may change my mind.

[suckmywake]

This is how I plan on mounting servo with parts from OSE AL. servo mount. I need to keep steering rod outside the rails to leave room for bats. The servo will be mounted far toward the transom to help COG. The flat head countersunk screws will go thru the rail to hold servo mounts. These screws will be able to be removed and servo will be able to slide forward with the mounts if service is needed.

[suckmywake]

I modified Jeff Wohlt strut to be adjustable. I wanted to be able to not only adjust up and down but forward and aft. I made a stand off block and got some longer mounting screws and drilled adjustment slot in factory brackets. I can adjust it anywhere from 2” to 3” off back off transom. The stuffing tube will be able to make up for this adjustment. The piano wire will have to be shortened or lengthen but piano wire is cheap and I make my own piano wire drives set up.

[LarrysDrifter]

I see the sticker on the transom in post 7.You can have your fast overbuilt mono,but all I have to do is turn a little short...for you know what...smartass.

[Rumdog]

hahahahhaaa

[suckmywake]

I am glad you finialy caught up enought to read it.

[madgadget]

incoming Larry, return fire!

[suckmywake]

I tell Larry this all the time. The thing I enjoy the most about this hobby is giving him Cr*p. Larry is a good guy. We have alot of fun running RC together.

[suckmywake]

I am putting a flood tube in this boat. I will be doing it a little different. This flood tube will be a lot shorter than others that I have seen and I will be using a steering bellow as a seal. I got this idea from my full size inboard v drive wakeboard boat that uses a rubber bellow and graphite slip flange to seal the prop shaft were it goes thru the bottom of the hull. I wanted to be able change props shaft height while running different dia, pitch, mutli blade props and different boat weight from running 2 or 4 batts (1p or 2p). I believe with the power, speed and the rpms FE boats reach the props wants to go to surface of the water and will raise the boat as it seeks the surface. The larger or higher pitch the prop the more lift is created. Lifting props and higher pitch x6 prop will lift transom more than lower pitch x4 props. My own personal experience is I have yet to get an x6 prop to outperform an x4 prop. The higher the boat run the less drag it has from the less wetted surface and boat should be faster but handling can suffer. The dreaded mono wobble can occur if boat gets to high and has a too narrow of a ride pad. Of course the angle of the hull and weight of boat has effect on this also. I also think that extending or decreasing the distance between the prop and the transom is basically like lengthening or shorting hull length or think of it as the ability for the prop to carry the bow or the running COG. The closer the prop is to the transom the more the prop will carry the bow and vise a versa.

[johnson22456]

Looks good bob. Get that thing together because we might actually have some wet water this weekend.

[properchopper]

Lookin' Good, Bob ! I get jazzed when I see creativity like you've demonstrated. I like the way you handled the rudder bracket placement & filled the void - I mounted my rudder lower & when it came time to install the trim tabs I had a rude awakening