Originally posted by Rumdog
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Newbie new build delta force 26"
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My problem is i just do not see a tiny hole in a rudder capable of flowing enough water to keep the speed control and motor cool. has anyone tried the water pump thing before?. if so did it work? my experience with 10th and 8th scale cars goes way back to the 1980's so i am not really a newbee.
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well i have to agree with rumdog on this one. too much cooling isnt always a good thing. these motors are made to run at 100 degrees. i am curious to see it in action but i guarantee i will not change my mind when mine is at 100 and yours 60, the water in my pond is close to 80 so even if i had more water the temp cant get any lower. i think that the manufactures recomend tempatures for a reason, tolerances and what not. too cold is almost as bad as too hotsee my fleet
: http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...hp?albumid=294
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The motor and esc do not need extra help in being cooled as said. Folks here have tons of experience with fast, high tech boats........................ i guess you just wanted to post your build with no input or recommendations from the members here.
As you said in post #14 "everyone has a opinion! it is my boat i will build it the way i want it."
Good luck.............NEED PARALLEL CONNECTORS?? QUALITY 5.5MM, 8MM, 8 AND 10 AWG, GET THEM HERE:
http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...est!&highlight=
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I like other peoples input and recommendations thats why i posted this thread. put until some one can give me proof that something that i am doing does not work then i am going with it. Just like the first few posts that someone told me that a 11L motor wont work and there is no prop selections. kind of funny seen one on you tube running a 8L on 3s. So far know one has given me any input of proof just what they think! as for motor running at a set temp is a load of crap. the colder the motor is the more efficient it is. electronics like speed controllers are the some way thats been proven. the lake here only gets to 60 deg at the warmest day of the year. the rest of the time its cold.Originally posted by Make-a-Wake View PostThe motor and esc do not need extra help in being cooled as said. Folks here have tons of experience with fast, high tech boats........................ i guess you just wanted to post your build with no input or recommendations from the members here.
As you said in post #14 "everyone has a opinion! it is my boat i will build it the way i want it."
Good luck.............
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well this is a quote from novak, i know they are car motors but they are among the best and most experienced
"From our testing and experience, keeping the external motor operating temperature under 160 degrees F (72 degrees C) will provide the best performance when the car is handling well. At this temperature, the motors’ racing life will last a long time and should require only occasional replacement of the bearings and rotors."see my fleet
: http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...hp?albumid=294
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I don't think anyone said the 11l wouldn't work. In fact it will work okay as many hop up their SV with the ammo 2300 with the stock 45amp esc. I would start with a 438 prop and maybe move to a 440 if temps are okay. Would this be an optimum setup. Probably not.
If you feel you have to over engineer water cooling by all means go for it. IMO you don't need it. I use one rudder pickup on my twin cat and never had a cooling problem in humid Hawaii weather. BUT you will have something different and out of the box.
Good luck with your build. These hulls are fun to run.If all of your wishes are granted, many of your dreams will be destroyed!
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Ya they say under 160 deg f, but they do not say the optimal temp for running the motor. I personaly with experience with cars and trucks would not use novak in any of my stuff. i have a novak rooster in my crawler and its a P.O.S. my opinion. as far as novak being the best "NO".Originally posted by Chuck E Cheese View Postwell this is a quote from novak, i know they are car motors but they are among the best and most experienced
"From our testing and experience, keeping the external motor operating temperature under 160 degrees F (72 degrees C) will provide the best performance when the car is handling well. At this temperature, the motors’ racing life will last a long time and should require only occasional replacement of the bearings and rotors."
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well keep in mind you are using a feigao.....see my fleet
: http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...hp?albumid=294
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Well, with the 11L on 4s and any kind of prop, your motor will be well over 100 degrees. I guarantee it. Your pump, that only works at a dead stop isn't going to drop your temps 40 degrees. IMO it will not help at all. 100 degrees is cold for as motor in fact. Don't you think we'd all be doing this if it worked so well? the tiny rudder hole will pick up PLENTY of water. If your boat is moving, it will do its job. Since you said you'll be running a course, when do you forsee it being stopped all the time?
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If those tiny holes can keep a 15cc nitro engine cool, they can keep your motor and ESC cool.Originally posted by Brushlessracev View PostMy problem is i just do not see a tiny hole in a rudder capable of flowing enough water to keep the speed control and motor cool.
The only boats I've seen with a water pump for cooling are gas boats with a clutch. They need it because at rest the engine is still creating heat, but isn't moving.Originally posted by Brushlessracev View Posthas anyone tried the water pump thing before?. if so did it work? my experience with 10th and 8th scale cars goes way back to the 1980's so i am not really a newbee.
I don't understand why you're over complicating the build without trying the simple way first?Light travels faster than sound, so people may appear to be bright until you hear them speak.
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let him go for it and realize that it isnt optimal,some people learn different ways lol.I agree with just the one pickup ideas as if it aint broke dont fix it I only use rudder pickup for last 6 months and works gr8...maybe the extra weight will keep the boat on the water better hehe shiny side up
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well did some testing, with out the water pump 11L with 4s prop pro boat 40mm x 2.5, max RPM@31562,@ 47 mph draw was 65amps this was with duel rudder pic ups temps stayed @ 120f range, with water pump same set up, temps were at 89F and speed of 59mph max rpm 33323 and 50amp drawOriginally posted by Rumdog View PostWell, with the 11L on 4s and any kind of prop, your motor will be well over 100 degrees. I guarantee it. Your pump, that only works at a dead stop isn't going to drop your temps 40 degrees. IMO it will not help at all. 100 degrees is cold for as motor in fact. Don't you think we'd all be doing this if it worked so well? the tiny rudder hole will pick up PLENTY of water. If your boat is moving, it will do its job. Since you said you'll be running a course, when do you forsee it being stopped all the time?
12 mph increase and 10 amp less draw with 31 deg colder temps. Wow just running cooler i can go up a prop. this was all tested at a lake that had a water temp of 74 deg.
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lets see some real data like eagle tree graphs. or a picture of your gps. i am sure you have an eagle tree because of all the data you have available on a running boat (amps, rpm, temps, gps)
or even better yet a vedeo.
do the math, even without a prop or water
11L = 2326 kv x 15v = 34890 rpm
i am not buying any of your numbers, doesnt add up and this hull doesnt run 60 without a pro setting it up for months. mabye your gps hit 59 when it flipped but otherwise i think you are full of **itsee my fleet
: http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...hp?albumid=294
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