Miss Bud Gen 1 Conversion

[TRXRUSTLER]

Thanks, For the tip.

Chris

[TRXRUSTLER]

I have the the strut, flex shaft, and motor mount all mocked up and almost ready to be epoxied in. I just have to buy a brass stuffing tube when I get ready to start epoxy-in. I have the motor mount just CA glued in so I could see where I was going put it. I still have to cut the flex cable down a little bit. What is the best way to cut a flex cable? I was wondering what collet I need to buy, it is the Proboat miss elam flex cable? I need a 5mm to (Proboat flex cable diameter). I have my Turnigy 120a marine ESC on its way so that should be here in a week or so.

Thanks, Chris

[blackcat26]

To cut the flex I use a side of "side cutters" meant for wire they work great. Just snap and it's cut! I'd buy the Octura short coupler for it sold on this site (much better than proboat's) Does the bottom of the hull have a recessed square for the top of the strut to go in?

[TRXRUSTLER]

No, this is the first gen with the straight shaft, I was going to take epoxy and smooth the transition from the hull to the strut. Will this one fit the proboat flex cable I'm using? http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...ct-ocfhe5mm15S

Chris

[blackcat26]

Transition-wise that would be fine but you are putting a strut that too deep from the factory even deeper. If you are looking for all out performance this will hurt ya.

[TRXRUSTLER]

Do you think I could take a dremel and make a inset for it to sit in? I could lay fiberglass inside the hull to compensate for the indent.

Chris

[blackcat26]

You need to bolt that strut to something I think. Maybe a pc. of ply inside the hull glassed in and then you could use the 4 screws to hold her on.

[RCKong]

Say, blackcat is right I've built one of these too, and you might want to take a step back and maybe look at putting an adjustible strut on the transom. This has alot to do with how the boat runs in the water. Might want to CF the bottom inside, could save alot of grief later.

[TRXRUSTLER]

Someone told me that the carbon fiber is still going to flex, so he said that it isn't worth doing. Also If I buy an ajustable strut then I have to buy a new flex shaft/ prop shaft.

[blackcat26]

The hull I converted was really flimsy. It does need some support whether it be glass or carbon. Yes you will need a new flex/prop shaft if you go that route. If you are happy with a slightly slower boat then don't even worry about it. I always try to push the limit it seems.

[RCKong]

well say if you wreck, the CF might prevent your motor going thru the bottom of the hull. There is little room inside the boat to move things around, to make it ride better, and there is no way to adjust the strut.

[TRXRUSTLER]

That makes sense with the carbon fiber, I guess I will have to get some, also can I use the Z-poxy PT-40 resin with the CF? I think I am just going to try to make what I have work and see how it does. I am planing on buying a miss elam hull anyway so these parts should just transfer over. I just figured that I got this hull for free and wanted to see if I could make it work. Thanks for all the help guys I will post more pics when I get any further.

Chris

[RCKong]

you can use glass cloth too, with resin/hardener kit that works well for $20 ACE Hdwr. Steven sells a speedmaster sport 20 3/16 strut. That's the one I like, it puts the prop off the strut a little.

[TRXRUSTLER]

Should I buy the flat bottom one? Also what flex cable should I buy?

Thanks, Chris

[RCKong]

I would get the round one. stay away from flat surfaces that can plane out. I even round the lead edge of my rudders. A good flexshaft for that size is .150 3/16. The setup you are going to put in it will be a good one for that boat. I run the same thing in my UL-1, it runs solid and fast.