Twin cat p.eells style (cat scratch feaver)

[peells]

Hi all,
I got Bit by the cat building Bug My little orange one is going to be for sale soon and not all stripped out either all you will have to do is add a radio but that is not the topic for the day.
Any way My son and I just Got our plans laser cut and I wanted to show off what I have done so far!

The KIt!



The Parts!!



The parts again:



And Again:



Mocked up:

and Now I have to do it again asi I used up my five pictures so stay tuned here comes another addition to this thread.

[peells]

Here are a few more shots:
with the sides on edge:

And Another:

I know they look like Ace's that is because they are TWINS LOL

Now the Jig is up!!



Frame with clamps: you can see how I put the blocks down between the Stringers to help keep them nice and stright.








And this is where I am today! I have to get my 1/8"x1/8" balsa for my frame work and I will have to start on the nose piece to help keep the frame tips stiff (maybe alittle starch LOL)

[ace028]

Looks good, hopefully mine will look like that by next weekend.

Did you get your 1/8 x 1/8 yet?

[peells]

BEVELING The STRINGERS

oK HERE IS HOW THE BEVELING OF THE STRINGERS IS DONE:




In this view you see I have started the beveling it is to match as closely as possible the angle the bulkheads create.

Now in this view I am showing you How it turns out now at the steps do not bevel into the up right portion keep it square for now.





And here we have one final shot of the beveling of this side BTW the jig you made to hold everything works great for holding the frame work while you sand (use a sanding block and be careful not to break any bulkheads.

[peells]

The Transom Must read if you are Building the boat

Ok before you just start glueing on the transom piece The rectangular one shown here mesure in 1 3/16" in from each end then on the stringers cut off the notched end flat, I made a center line on the transom for later when it is time for alignment of the stand off box for your rudder, BTW the notches are only left there if you desire the rounded corner look and if you need templates for those corners contact me and I will bet them to you.

[peells]

Well I got Busy

Hey All,
Here are some more step by step pictures of What I have been doing,
In this one I have added a Glueing Brace to later be removed which helps keep the Nose running straight.




Here is another picture of it, Notice how I have let the 1/8 x 1/8 balsa run wild this is for bending at another step.




Now you see the 1/8 x 1/8 Balsa all too long I am going to bend it across the top and place a mark on it.




Now before Bending Spray the area with some water!! Or you Will Break the balsa!! Now wait for a couple minutes for the water to soak in it wont take very long like 2 minutes will work.



Here is one I am bending over the top of the stringer, just carefully pull it over until it aligns properly with the point of the stringer then draw a line along the line produced by the junction of the stringer and the 1/8 x 1/8 balsa, and relax the peice.




After Marking both sides and cutting them off you should wind up with something like this. now bend them over and glue them in place. CAREFULLY!!

[Jeff Wohlt]

This is great watching the build! Thanks for all the pics.

[peells]

More Details

in This Picture I am trying to Show you how to make the 1/8 x 1/8 balsa fit into the nose you have to taper the top one and the bottom one I hope you can see it as I am going to show you a couple of shots of this area.








And due to popular demand a shot of the completed frame work well 98% complete I have to add the transom and it's frame work.

[peells]

I am trying to really keep this well documented so I can add some of this to my website and on the plans for this little dude and then bring out it's bigger brother after I perfect the plan!! I have found a couple little tweeks I want to do to this plan yet.

[peells]

The Glued Seam at the Nose

Here is how the finished Seam should look at the Nose Be Carefull Making it!!

[peells]

Making the out Board Steps

Well This evening I decided to put a little time into my little Lady!! and this week end I ordered a couple of 3900KV inrunners with water cooling jackets insane I know but it will be fun. well here is what I have done tonite!!

In this pic I have used the excess wood from the 1/8" balsa the tos of the sponsons were cut from to add extra wide outboard lower stringers so that I could have enough material to cut the steps into the side, the template for the main stringers is used to trace the steps on the side.


Here I am placing the template about 1/8" back from the bulkhead.


this is another shot of the same thing,


Here I am tracing the steps on the side,


In this shot you can see the traced step at each point,

[peells]

in the above picture you can clearly see the extra added blocking for the cutting in of the steps.
And in the next picture I am showing you the blocking for the actual step it's self. I laso cut the angle of the step into the frame work and matched up the blocking to it, I am going to then cover it al with some 1/64" birch plywood so the face of the steps are nice and flat.


You can see thtat I have added all the step blocking and placed the transom, (remember earlier I had it all marked out, Here I have cut the notched tabbed ends off and now it fits real nice.


here is another view and I will have another one after this!!

This one is a little washed out but if you hold your lip just so you can make it out.


Here is a nice full length shot!

[peells]

Skinning the Cat (not a yo yo trick

Well last night I couldn't stop the progress after preping the steps I have made some 1/64" ply backing for the steps and then added some extra blocking to hold the leading edge of the skin on to the step creating a shelf for the skin to rest on (with glue of corse)


You can see my garmet clips I swiped from my wife and they also can be used for chip bag clips when not being used for clamps.


Now look at the transom I have added some small pieces of 1/8"x1/8" balsa to frame that area, when placing the lower blocks I used the top of the lower side rail as a guide for the placement instead of gluing the block (out of lack for a better term) right on the end I placed it 1/8" up from that location, placing it over the top of the original 1/8"x1/8" rail.


Now all I have to do is sand to fit I had the pieces cut over size so I didn't have a accidental shortage of material.

[peells]

The Tub

well, well after some serious looking around I find my build has made the 3rd page of the building blog, well that just wont do!! so I got busy last night and finished the skin on the bottom and the sides of the sponsons, I made a angled nose piece and cut out the Tub and installed it, the making of the tub was a painstaking process as I had to make an exact fit because I am not going to place a ledger to hold it in it will be a glue joint with resin and fiberglass cloth backup but in any event here are some progress photos.



Ok see the line running down the center? that is very important to get right, I first started by measuring the width at the transom and the last stepped area at the back and I made the piece 1/8" wider than needed (just in case) then I used the center line and marked out the 3 3/16" width for the tub (space between the sponsons) then using a stright edge I carefully cut out the bottom.

[peells]

More

Notice here where I have added extra blocking for the steps (I also have put a piece of plywood as a vertical riser in front of the blocking so all my exterior is all birch plywood.


Here is a shot with the angled nose piece in place later I am going to notch it to allow a flush fit with the tub and nose piece.


See how I have slid the nose piece forward? this is to allow me to notch it to the depth of tub sheating so I can get a nice flush fit, (this is a good practice so you use as little as possible filler or if you make a woody)


as you can see at the rear I need to trim the tub where I squared it off when I made it.