Running Gear installation
I have been swamped with getting the racing season going and doing things with the nats as well as trying to get caught up with builds. I finally made some time to get the Crackerbox rolling once again. The hull build is finished so its time to add running gear, paint and details. So here we go.I decided to build much of the hardware but there is a ton of stuff that can be purchased and used, The install is pretty much the same process. I built a drop in motor mount from 1 inch extruded aluminum angle I cut the angle and drilled it to fit the bolt pattern of the motor Then set a 10 degree wedge block at the motor location and installed the mount to the block in the hulls bottom. I set the mount 12 inches from the transome. You can use any of the adjustable mounts that will fit in the bottom of the hull as well. Next I installed the stuffing tube to the keel center making sure in was centered with the motor shaft and keel center. I used 1/4 inch brass tubing, for the below transome prop I needed to make a slight "J" bend in the tube were the tube exhits the hull bottom.Here are some pics.
I have been swamped with getting the racing season going and doing things with the nats as well as trying to get caught up with builds. I finally made some time to get the Crackerbox rolling once again. The hull build is finished so its time to add running gear, paint and details. So here we go.I decided to build much of the hardware but there is a ton of stuff that can be purchased and used, The install is pretty much the same process. I built a drop in motor mount from 1 inch extruded aluminum angle I cut the angle and drilled it to fit the bolt pattern of the motor Then set a 10 degree wedge block at the motor location and installed the mount to the block in the hulls bottom. I set the mount 12 inches from the transome. You can use any of the adjustable mounts that will fit in the bottom of the hull as well. Next I installed the stuffing tube to the keel center making sure in was centered with the motor shaft and keel center. I used 1/4 inch brass tubing, for the below transome prop I needed to make a slight "J" bend in the tube were the tube exhits the hull bottom.Here are some pics.
Next its time to install the under the transome strut, I made the strut form brass sheet and tubing and silver soldered it together. You can use an Octura or most any struts and mounts here, once again the process in about the same. I first located the transome and keel center and mounted the strut mounting bracket inside the hull on the the transome at that location. I then cut a small slit in the keel hull bottom were the strut will enter the hull. Now I use a perfectly straight rod and align the strut with the stuffing tub and adjust alignment as needed and now glue the stuffing tube in place. Here are some pics of the install.
I made a rudder from some things I had around but any after market rudder that is 3-3 1/2 inches long will work. With the prop at the transome I needed to set the rudder on center on the transome to allow for prop clearance, I first set the servo mount inside the hull at my chosen location then making sure my servo push rod was straight I drilled through the transome and mounted the rudder keeping the assembly very straight and lined up with all steering assembly. Here are a couple of pics.
Now I need to finish the hatch I added some balsa pieces to the cockpit front and then sanded them to contour and shape.
I have built a double shark fin skegg from 2 pieces of 1/16 brass sheet about 1 inch long and shaped them to the desired skegg shape and added a strip 1/4 inch wide brass to the tops of the skeggs and silver soldered them together. I then made a slit in the hull under the motor and slipped the skegg in place making sure it was straight and in line with the strut and stuffing tube. I then water sealed the remaing inside hull center and added a pair of battery bunks and esc pod the the hull floor.
The hull, running gear and all hardware part of the build is finished and time to start getting ready to paint. I filled all seams, minor imperfections and joints on the out side of the hull and hatch with 2 part automotive body glazing putty then sanded them as well as the entire hull smooth with 220 grit sand paper, dry sanding, I cleaned all dust from the hull and wiped it clean with a tack cloth and applied 2 coats of water proof polycrylic sealer then sanded this with 220 grit dry as well. I the cleaned the hull with soap and water and tacked wiped it clean and applied 3 coats of high fill sandable primer and allowed this to dry overnight, and sanded the primer with 320 grit sand paper wet and reapplied 3 coats of primer to the hull and hatch
Its time for final check to make sure everyhing fits and is correct. I made a couple of drivers and have fitted them as well as the motor tub. Here is the hull and detail layout, Next I will get final paint prep finished and paint applied, I am going to do a sray can paint job that will rival most body shop jobs and will give some tips on how to go about getting a really nice paint job using spray cans. Stay tuned!!!
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