Deck Skins
Once the hatch had been finished its time to add the deck skins, Check all of the bulkheads, supports and formers making sure there are no high or uneven areas, sand to knock down any bumps left from the waterproofing or other flaws. Once your happy with the deck framework its time to add the deck skins, I first apply 2 coats of polycrylic sealer to the underside of all of the deck pieces and let dry. Once dry, sand the sealer a bit with 220 sand paper, wipe clean. I use automotive gasket contact cement as it is high temp and completely waterproof, you can use other glues as you prefer. I coated the deck skin with the cement as well as the bulkheads, supports and formers. Allowed to dry for 20 minutes. Next I laid the skin in place at its location and applied pressure working from the center, outward until the skin was firmly in place and tight. I the repeated the same process with the rear 2 small deck skin pieces as well as the small strip at the transome deck area. I left some overhang around the entire hull, once all of the skins were in place and dry I applied a bead of medium CA around the entire hull where the deck meets the sides and transome also at the hatch opening seams and joints .When the CA had dried I planed and sanded all of the joint areas flush and removed the excess overhang. Here is the hull ready for hardware install and paint prep.
Once the hatch had been finished its time to add the deck skins, Check all of the bulkheads, supports and formers making sure there are no high or uneven areas, sand to knock down any bumps left from the waterproofing or other flaws. Once your happy with the deck framework its time to add the deck skins, I first apply 2 coats of polycrylic sealer to the underside of all of the deck pieces and let dry. Once dry, sand the sealer a bit with 220 sand paper, wipe clean. I use automotive gasket contact cement as it is high temp and completely waterproof, you can use other glues as you prefer. I coated the deck skin with the cement as well as the bulkheads, supports and formers. Allowed to dry for 20 minutes. Next I laid the skin in place at its location and applied pressure working from the center, outward until the skin was firmly in place and tight. I the repeated the same process with the rear 2 small deck skin pieces as well as the small strip at the transome deck area. I left some overhang around the entire hull, once all of the skins were in place and dry I applied a bead of medium CA around the entire hull where the deck meets the sides and transome also at the hatch opening seams and joints .When the CA had dried I planed and sanded all of the joint areas flush and removed the excess overhang. Here is the hull ready for hardware install and paint prep.
Here is my plan for the engine bay, I had picked up a 1/6 scale 426 Hemi Racing engine model kit a while back at the LHS. It was very heavy as it has a metal block, But.......... it has a lot of really nice plastic lightweight detail parts, so I made the top section of the block from balsa and added the top detail pieces. We now have a 426 Hemi. I'll do some adjusting as we get further along. But it fits the bill for this size boat and looks pretty cool!!! 
Comment