JAE Builds

[Rumdog]

Are you guy's gonna try the FE hardware for these from zippkits? The strut looks very interesting

[Doug Smock]

Are you guy's gonna try the FE hardware for these from zippkits? The strut looks very interesting

We are all using Speedmaster hardware. I'll post some picks when I set the boat up after paint.

The Zipp strut is interesting. Non adjustable and it looks like it has 2 or 3 degrees of negative built in.

Doug

[Chilli]

I'm using the original version of the Zippkits strut made by Jim Mamaril who frequents the International Waters Forum. Zippkits picked up his design. I checked the angle of the strut on a square and it appears to be dead on at 90 degrees. I'm also using the Zippkits rudder which looks to be very similar to a Fullers rudder. Here's a pic of the strut that Jim made. It's supposed to sit right on top of the ski. This JAE kit and strut make building and running riggers a no brainer for a rigger newbie like myself.

[Chuck E Cheese]

i know that that is what makes the jae 12 rigger run right, 90 degrees off the trandsom and right on top of the ski. i spoke with rod geraghty about it and that is how the boat is designed to work (and it does).
i also will be using jim mamaril's struts on the 21g and 21fe builds i have in progress.

my question for you is what battery pack are you going to use in the FE? i will be running a ul-1 motor and cc240 and haven't determined which pack to use for the best fit and preformance for this application. i was thinking of the 40/80c thunder power in 5000 or 4200mah. they are expensive packs so i want to make sure to get it right on the first try. i have had problems using cheap packs in the past. my tunnel puffed turnigy 5000 30c's using a super-v motor/esc due to large props and i want batteries that can take experimentation with modified h-7 through 1450's. that is why i am choosing to use a cc240 so i think the weak link will be batteries.

[jcald2000]

The weak link WILL BE THE MOTOR in that setup, but you can't go wrong with good battery's.

[Doug Smock]

Hmmmmmm

Is there more than one design out there?? This one is not 90 degrees.

[Chilli]

Thats interesting. I tried to go back and verify my facts, but there are so many JAE threads on IW, I could not find what I was looking for. I hate passing bogus info so someone correct me if I'm wrong. If my memory serves me, Jim came out with a strut and Joe posted that he was working on something similar, but liked Jims design. I thought they had worked something out where Zippkits was going to start producing something similar to Jim's version. Whatever the history, obviously there is some difference between the two. I'm glad you mention the negative strut angle Doug. If the rigger was designed for neutral strut, I wonder how the negative angle will affect how the boat runs?

[teach]

I remember the same Nauti. Couldn't find the post either. Mr. Smock if you are bored could you check to be sure the prop shaft "hole" is bored center (can't think of a better way to explain that). Maybe it's the bottom of the strut isn't at 90 degrees.

[detox]

Is there more than one design out there?? This one is not 90 degrees.

Doug, The strut in your picture looks to have Positive angle built in. Maybe hole is bored at Zero.

[Doug Smock]

I remember the same Nauti. Couldn't find the post either. Mr. Smock if you are bored could you check to be sure the prop shaft "hole" is bored center (can't think of a better way to explain that). Maybe it's the bottom of the strut isn't at 90 degrees.

Teach, Mr.Smock was my dad.

The hole is center, approx 1.2 mm from the bottom of the strut. see pics.

I wouldn't worry about the negative, the man who put the JAE in the record books ( 20 powerplant) said the boat liked a little negative.

Keith I've always called anything below the centerline negative.

Doug

[detox]

According to UL-1 manual page 7 prop side tilted below centerline is called positive angle.

http://manuals.hobbico.com/aqu/aqub20-manual.pdf

[Chuck E Cheese]

i have 3 struts from jim and they all measure out 90 degrees. the z-21 strut in that picture is the one from zip, not jim.

as for the weak link being the motor, that is what i want. then i can prop up untill the motor is on the edge and that is where i want it. i have tried this system in a ul-1 with x445/645's and the problem was cheap batteries (turnigy 3600 30c 4s x 2). to keep the batteries cool i had to go x642. what batteries are you planing on.

i have a starting prop for the jae coming from mark @ props4u, i havent got the specs on it yet but i think it is going to be something like a 1450 cut to around 46mm and cupped 3.0 plus a little pitch. that is what he recomended for the set-up and he usually hits his mark.

[Rumdog]

According to UL-1 manual page 7 prop side tilted below centerline is called positive angle.
http://manuals.hobbico.com/aqu/aqub20-manual.pdf

That is incorrect.

[Chilli]

I did communicate with Jim via PM today. Just to verify what Chuck and I thought, Jim does make his strut angle 90 degrees "neutral" based on input from Rod. The Zippkits strut is based on Jims's design, however Jim still has the rights to make them himself. So there you go. Those who would like a fixed strut have two choices. That was kind of cool that we learned the difference between these two struts are more than just asthetics.

Back to building boats!

[Chuck E Cheese]

just so you know..... all jims parts are sweet stuff. i also got the boom tube collars from him and they are NICE too.... i am a little jealous because all 3 of my struts are the first run without holes. i also wish i would have waited and got the lighter berlin one he i planning. oh well, the weight isnt my bag anyway. my boats all come out a little heaver and tougher than most. i am a fan of double pushrod seals (one inside, one outside), a good layer of epoxy resin sealer, large reciever batteries and all stainless screws just to mention a few things. if the weight was that big of a deal i would not paint the hull or run them with 1 oz less fuel... (or smaller esc perhaps)