Raptor Rigger Build

[tth]

why? do you have a thing for tomatoes?

Count again Jeepers

[andym]

Detox you are going to love this boat, I am more than happy with mine. The most stable rigger I have built and just as fast as any.

[raptor347]

Detox,
Use the plate mount for the motor, it really stiffens the tub up. Either notch it from the top to clear wires (like Darin's) or drill a couple holes o clear cooling and wires.

Andy,
Turned out nice, glad you're having fun with it.

[andym]

Hey Brian, gel coat would be great. Lots of pin holes to fill and paint

[Jeepers]

Count again Jeepers

weird the pics of the sponsons on the stove were not there when I wrote that!!!

just given Teach a hard time, because I race with him!!!

[raptor347]

Hey Brian, gel coat would be great. Lots of pin holes to fill and paint

Unfortunately, gelcoat and epoxy don't mix. All the parts are vac-bagged so there isn't much excess resin in there.

Besides, it's lighter if done properly.

The Euro guys (H&M, MHZ etc.) use a type of paint that's not available here.

[detox]

The pin holes in my unfinished Raptor Rigger are VERY minor when compaired to my unfinished Phil Thomas SS21 hull.


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[Darin Jordan]

The pin holes in my unfinished Raptor Rigger are VERY minor when compaired to my unfinished Phil Thomas SS21 hull.


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Probably be helpful to many here if you guys would give a little how to on the best way to prep boats like this for paint...

[andym]

It was just a thought for the guys that are happier with the ARR type of build. I did not mind at all and have filling pin holes down to a fine art.I use a stop putty and scrapper then sand then a high build primer, then sand and paint. No problems

[detox]

Probably be helpful to many here if you guys would give a little how to on the best way to prep boats like this for paint...

For minor pin holes I use red lacquer spot puddy. After priming I apply this puddy using my finger tip to small low spots and holes. Let puddy dry, then sand. Then spray primer again. You can purchase the Bondo brand in a tube at most any autoparts store.

Here is a tip Brian told me about while I was building my SS21. For lots of pin holes use dry wall spackling paste. Prep hull by cleaning then sanding. Smear paste on entire hull by hand, wipe off excess, let dry, sand off excess, then spray primer. For large holes and imperfections I use micro balloons mixed with finishing epoxy before using the spackling paste.

When painting hull be sure to use the same brand primer and paint to prevent pealing when hatch tape is removed. I like regular Krylon primer and paint. If using automotive type paint be sure to use their matching recomended primer to prevent pealing.


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[T.C.]

I would suggest going to an Automotive paint supply store and buying some good filler.
You can buy it in small quantities that will adhere to the type of material you boat is made of, and it will be a very fine texture and sand easy.
I have used the lacquer type fillers and even the high build lacquer primers before and after a few weeks they seem to have alot of shrinkage.
I painted the hood on my 69 Chevelle and used lacquer high build primer, looked perfect after the primer was sanded, looked perfect after the Base coat clear coat was applied.
One month later I could see every stroke I made with the sanding block.
It's like it just shrunk up and went away ?
Very costly mistake as the Dupont BC/CC is not cheep, probably cost me $400. to reprime and repaint the hood.
Ya may even look a Summit auto parts , they carry paints in small quantities.
Hope this helps?
T.C.

[detox]

Nice car! I allways did like the 69 Chevelle.

Summitracing's catalized urethane primer/surfacer and urethane paint is what I used last time I painted a hull. This catalized urethane primer shrinks very little if any compaired to the lacquer type primers.

[Chuck E Cheese]

what is "p-spec" hydro class??? what kind of speed are you getting out of these riggers?
i am getting ready to dive into the jae 21fe and looking for tips on powering it. i am not a racer and will be using cc240 and 5000mah 30c 4s. i am worried about space, i think 36mm can is as large as will fit but wondering if i should just set it up as a ul-1 motor or would something like 6 or 7xl be a good choice. also what size props are you guys running on these riggers

[detox]

I think most everyone will be using the UL-1 motor/esc in P-spec class. Replace the UL-1 connectors with 6.5 bullets and add one extra 25v 1500 capacitor to esc. Speeds should be between 55-65mph. I know nothing about props, but I have a few that I will try. At first I will get the boat to go fast using a smaller size prop (40-42mm) to start off with then I will go bigger (43-47mm). I will use the Eagletree to check for the dreaded large voltage spikes.

[detox]

After setting up AOA and ride height I epoxied 1/8" G10 fiberglass to secure booms to hull (NO adjustment) . Booms are a slip fit inside 13/32" brass tube, but will be drilled and bolted thru to secure them. I will grind off ends of brass tubes so they will be even with outside of hull. Sponsons are not glued to booms yet.

This simple jig that I built using MDF board and scrap makes my job lots easier and very accurate.