Looking good...keep up the pics and build info...can't wait to see it wet. Speaking of shipping damage, I had a similar problem with fedex delivering a broken shovelnose. Entirely the shipping outfit was to blame, stacking my box....resulting in a completely caved in nose on this 1960s Dumas hull. It was easier to knife off the skin and fix the internal bracing, then start from square one rather than fix just the broken nose and work around blending the repair. I am in the process of reskinning the entire hull now...(its wood, obviously). Your boat is looking great, and its fiberglass which is very easy to work with...
BBY's 1/8 Pro Boat build
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The transom damage was from me removing the metal bracing for the POS strut. Not UPS faulght at all, they just cracked all four conors.
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If I want to run the boat in the scale class it needs to be whare I mounted it to be legal, All I will have to do is add wings to run in NAMBA.Originally posted by Rumdog View PostWhy not mount the strut to the transom?, Well, I mean the outside of the transom?
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Yes it has to be sealed. One of the reasons I hate the rule. I have thought for a long time to build a water proof box around it to seal it from the rest of the boat. But I just put RTV Sylcon all around the strut arm on the bottom of the hull, inside and out.Originally posted by Rumdog View PostAhhh, gotcha. Is it water tight? I'm assuming it's not since you'd want it to be adjustable. If that is the case then the rear area must be sealed from the rest of the hull, no?
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I do not have to adjust it much most of the time so the rtv has enough give .Originally posted by j.m. View PostSo when you adjust the strut you have to reseal it?
Or is the RTV flexible?
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Good build so far, I am building a 1/8th Bud' to run Nitro but would love to take on a build like yours!!! Keep it going!!!!HPR C-5009, Riptide48, PaynPak 1/12, Miss Budweiser 1/8 Hydro, Miss Freya (own design 1/8 Hydro), HOR 32, Twin 380 HOR 32, Magin one
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