1/6th Scale Crackerbox - Ruleset

[Hydromaniac]

I have yet to get my ok-do-ky to view or post on rumrunners, so I haven't seen the prototypes. No matter......I can wait a little longer.
I don't think the motor opening should be so wide, since we are not putting in a weed wacker motor....just big enough for my fat little hands

Has anyone speced out the hardware or servo to be used?

I wanted to register my boat as "WISE CRACKER' P-39

jim Namba 39

Cool name, this class should be a riot, you should be cleared to get on Rum Runner soon.

[Jeepers]

Forget the 1/6 scale, I have a small block 350 in my shed!

[BOZINATOR]

Does anyone have the diamentions of Eddie Hansens 1/6 scale drivers? I am in the final stages of laying out the bulkheads and the size of the drivers will determine where some of the stringers go. I am headed out now to see if I can find a GI Joe that might fill the bill (12" tall Is what I think is right)

I have ordered my wood...I am going with balsa bulkheads (4" wide x 36") and 1/8" stringers (maybe basswood)

Maybe someone could post the pictures from Rumrunners on the glass boats being made by Donnie. along with the hardware Eddie found.

Thanks again
jim (Namba 39)

[Fluid]

It seems odd to me that a one-design class allows much lee-way in dimensions. The NAMBA Crackerbox rules clearly state that all boats must be within 1/8" of the design hull, yet here we are talking about 1.5" differences. 1/6th scale is about 31"....

Let's remember why 1/10th Crackerbox was started, and why it failed. The original idea (Jerry Dunlap's) was to have a cheap (ROAR motors, 6 cells) one-design scale boat that would attract newer boaters and be a class where driver skill made the difference in winning or loosing rather than deep pockets. The first few years in APBA (which first adopted CBox) were great, with over 25 boats at the Nationals. I know, I was there. But it became painfully obvious that this was not a good beginner's class, when over half the field failed to finish due to flipping.

My local club adopted the class and it was popular for about two years, then died off fast. Why? Because it was obviously an experienced driver's class, beginners had no chance. They lacked the finesse and experience in setup and driving to finish. I remember one season where two new drivers never finished a single heat - out of over twenty heats they entered! Great way to inspire newbies.....

The 1/6th scale class may do better, but the hull design is the same and the speeds will be quite a bit higher. I hope it fares better than 1/10th scale did. If anyone wants some tips on staying upright, I won several seasons of CBox racing....



.

[BOZINATOR]

In general all classes start this way. Some one gets an ideal, the next person does the math, the next person can't relate, next person can't afford, or you just plain can't see the attraction. We are in phase one of the discovery process, if you want to help us...you are always welcome for better or worse. I don't agree on the whole setup thing myself. mine will be 32" because it is 1/6th of 15'6"...no min no max just what it is. I don't agree with the motor choice because it is not more fuctional than a brushed motor in this applicatiion. The boat can only go so fast before it flys. I am building the crackerbox, first and formost, for myself to have some fun I also found out today that the 1/6 driver will not fit in the 28 or 30" size boats and still look half way decent. I will post the bulkheads based on a 32"size and it will be up you to make them smaller or let it be. I am going to try the MPI 500 motor first, since I have it laying arouind. I bought the building board and 90 degree brackets today, so I am going to go do that now. more later

jim (namba 39)

[Hydromaniac]

[QUOTE=Fluid;143923]It seems odd to me that a one-design class allows much lee-way in dimensions. The NAMBA Crackerbox rules clearly state that all boats must be within 1/8" of the design hull, yet here we are talking about 1.5" differences. 1/6th scale is about 31"....

The lee-way is kind of a scale thing but not too serious though, it is the same % amount allowed in the real ones, that and to allow for some fun experimentation in the process, allow some lee -way in the early stages to see what works best, Not for beginners for sure, its kind of a lets see what happens idea and from the looks of things many others are thinking along the same line. Perhaps a p spec package will bring it back to life. Just for the fun of it. Jay I know I speak for myself as well as others any advice or direction would be more then welcome. This will be a fun challenge but thats the idea.

[RandyatBBY]

It seems odd to me that a one-design class allows much lee-way in dimensions. The NAMBA Crackerbox rules clearly state that all boats must be within 1/8" of the design hull, yet here we are talking about 1.5" differences. 1/6th scale is about 31"....

Let's remember why 1/10th Crackerbox was started, and why it failed. The original idea (Jerry Dunlap's) was to have a cheap (ROAR motors, 6 cells) one-design scale boat that would attract newer boaters and be a class where driver skill made the difference in winning or loosing rather than deep pockets. The first few years in APBA (which first adopted CBox) were great, with over 25 boats at the Nationals. I know, I was there. But it became painfully obvious that this was not a good beginner's class, when over half the field failed to finish due to flipping.

My local club adopted the class and it was popular for about two years, then died off fast. Why? Because it was obviously an experienced driver's class, beginners had no chance. They lacked the finesse and experience in setup and driving to finish. I remember one season where two new drivers never finished a single heat - out of over twenty heats they entered! Great way to inspire newbies.....

The 1/6th scale class may do better, but the hull design is the same and the speeds will be quite a bit higher. I hope it fares better than 1/10th scale did. If anyone wants some tips on staying upright, I won several seasons of CBox racing....
.

I tried to tell them the same thing, they would not listen. You can lead a horse to the water but you can not make them drink! I was interested until they voted down the surface drive idea. No problem I have a lot's of other classes I want to run. No offence Guys.

[BOZINATOR]

Hi Randy,
Long time no see......We could use some of your knowledge and skill on this one. I know it is a little different from what you are use to, but never the less within your skill levels to help launch a new class even if you don't agree with the propossed rules" It is just for fun right now, so be a sport as you always were, when we raced togeter some twenty years ago. Youl can help design the running gear and vaccum form a driver (There is money to be made here and maybe somemore friends) It will grow on you...trust me

jim (Namba 39)

[RandyatBBY]

I knew that was you Jim, I really pick and chouse my battles theses days. I only have so much time to work on stuff. I am restoring my 1971 SS 454 El Camino on Saturdays and some Sundays. I really try to make it to Fremont on Sundays that it is warm enough or not too hot either. During the week I have a lot of work to do. I would love to run the Crackers like the Gas guys do then I could get into it, But I do not like to argue and gave up. I saw the 1/10 crackers come and go just like Jay said. I would Love to build it my way and show them how to do it and make it work. But the prop under the hull is a deal killer to me. Again no offence I just am not going to do it. I have seen way too many boats upside down at the starting line and in the field from this set up and I just cannot back it. I guess it is "In for a penny, in for a pound"

Now if they would let me do it as a exhibition run, since they are doing it as a exhibition class then it would be OK. But they did not want to have it.

[Hydromaniac]

I knew that was you Jim, I really pick and chouse my battles theses days. I only have so much time to work on stuff. I am restoring my 1971 SS 454 El Camino on Saturdays and some Sundays. I really try to make it to Fremont on Sundays that it is warm enough or not too hot either. During the week I have a lot of work to do. I would love to run the Crackers like the Gas guys do then I could get into it, But I do not like to argue and gave up. I saw the 1/10 crackers come and go just like Jay said. I would Love to build it my way and show them how to do it and make it work. But the prop under the hull is a deal killer to me. Again no offence I just am not going to do it. I have seen way too many boats upside down at the starting line and in the field from this set up and I just cannot back it. I guess it is "In for a penny, in for a pound"

Now if they would let me do it as a exhibition run, since they are doing it as a exhibition class then it would be OK. But they did not want to have it.

Randy you always attack fixed struts no matter what hull, I get it, they are not as fast and are harder to tune, thats part of the challenge, I have built and ran surface drive CBs I can sum it up in one word BORING, Not where we want this to go, There are lots of guys on board so we might be on to something. So build one by the rules, then come to Colorado and show us how its done LOL.

[BOZINATOR]

Gentlemen,
Today I have worked on the bulkheads for the 32" length model of the crackerbox. With the tabs for mounting to the building board the bulkheads are a taller than the 4"wide balsa I wanted to use. Sooo, in the interest of using standard materials (not to mention my sanity) I have choosen to shrink the bulkheads and tabs down so they fit on the 4" stock Does anyone feel that this could cause a problem? I can give the exact difference when I shrink them for printing, otherwise I could just print both if need be.
Has anyone figured out the power set-up?, ie drive componets and prop,strut andf rudder yet?

jim (namba 39)

[AndyKunz]

Why is narrow wood a problem? Don't you just glue to make it as wide as you need it? I've made 16" wide wing skins from 1/16" stock already. With CA it only takes about 3 minutes to join two sheets. A joiner, tape, CA, and kicker and you're in business. (And you don't need the joiner if you have good wood).

Andy

[BOZINATOR]

Hi Andy,
While it is true that the crackerbox does fly at times...I don't think making wing skins will work in this application. This is not for the accomplished modeler, rather a primer..if I may...to encourage new modelers without the burden of failure because it was too much engineering for them to see though to get to a finished project.
I only deal in the truth....not for godly reasons...it is how I was brought up..it has always served me well.
So the truth is the 28" boat has a smaller profile (side view) than the 32"boat even after me making the 3/16" height adjustment. I have thought this through, and have the only plausable answer to different length boats.
Make them 28" to 32" no problem...just use the same templates for the bulkheads. You will have the same frontal area and side area to deal with on an equal footing as everyone else. The cockpit (drivers place) and motor will be of the same design (opening size) as dictated by the stringer layout on the templates. What could be more simple? really!
Once I do post my templates....I fully expect to get help refining them (if you expect to be part of the fun, then be part of the help or just ask questions Please)
sorry..had to take my wife over to her sisters
Now...The hardware....In the same sprit as the templates..a kit from one source..The stuffing tube, teflon tube, flex cable, skegg, strut, rudder etc in one package approved by the class. (if you can help here chime in please)
Do you hate me now or what? LOL
jim

[chuckc]

Why Balsa, Why not plywood. I'm planning on 1/8th 3 ply for the inner guts and 1/16th an 1/32 for outer skins, with Mahogany laminated on the deck.

Sacrificing the buck heads to use 4" balsa seems like a neewbe way of changing design for the lack of width of material. Might want to check out National Balsa on line. The whole world might open up for ya.

I don't think Balsa is the right material, but who am I to tell anyone to use something else. I built one boat outta balsa and it didn't last the season. A couple of battles in the turns will take it's toll........

Jim, you need to follow the thread on RRR which basically is calling out everything your asking.

[chuckc]

I had rec'd the Dunlap plans yesterday from RCStores, and after doing measurements and calculating the blow up percentage 48% seems to be a magical size increase.

Given the dimensions of 28 min- 32 max, the Dunlop plans would be 31.08" Given the max dimensions from the Crackerbox APBRA specs of 15.6' a true 1/6th scale boat would be 31.20", we're good on length @ 48%..

The beam at the widest part on Dunop's plans are 7.12" inc by 48%, that brings it in at 10.54", APBRA specs says max of 5.83' or 11.66" 1/6th scale, inc by 48% the Dunlop drawing is 10.54" Good there also.

The transom by APBRA is 4.98', or 9.92" 1/6th scale. The Dunlop drawing is 6.12" or increased by 48%, bring it in at 9.06" with a spec of 8.25 min. Again within spec.

Just food for thought for you redesigning people. Boats most likely will be dimensioned if your running in a 1/6th CB Event. Have fun, and don't forget to register you boat name and # @ RumRunners forum 1/6th CB Registry. Sorry Steve