1/6th Scale Crackerbox - Ruleset

[BOZINATOR]

Hi Steve,
Thanks for your input on the dimensions and the choice of materials. The balsa is strictly for prototype building, in that I can modify it easily while outfitting the running gear.(that's just me) You got the math correct, indeed.....What is your choice for a boat length, now that you have "done the math"? I am looking to get a consensus or a pulse of the community at large before one or two people cast it in stone,...Then only those people will be happy.....others like me will walk away (again) from the cracker box racing. I hope that everyone builds their design and then shares what worked and what didn't work. I need to find a program or send my files to someone to shrink, for posting here on the forums. Please remember what I said about the bulkheads.......They should be the same size for everyone ( like Nascar) I am going back to work now on my prototype. More progress later

jim

[BOZINATOR]

see .

[blizard05]

OK'soo far I have built 3- 1/4 scale C boxes (gas) 4-1/10 scale (elec) now I have to build a 1/6 scale. Where do I start,who has the plans?? Could the Dumas SK Daddle be modified ?Looks close to a C box 27 by 10 3/4 and 8 1/2 at transom,,could square the last 2 frames. Do away with the tumble home (barel back) Larry

[BOZINATOR]

If .

[Hydromaniac]

The minimum size of a real crackerbox allowed is 13 foot 6 inches which equates to 27 inches minimum at 1/6 scale,

[AndyKunz]

Hi Andy,
While it is true that the crackerbox does fly at times...I don't think making wing skins will work in this application.

Yeah, I had one of those Dunlap 1/10th's and it was a bad experience. It spent more time floating on its deck than upright.

I didn't realize your goal was for new modelers. When I was kitting Pythons and Blitzers (intended for 1st-time builders but intermediate pilots) the wing skins were joined. It's not an "advanced" technique by any stretch, and doing it with thicker wood is even easier.

Making things self-jigging is really the key (pun) to simplifying construction for newbs. The comments on using ply are probably even better than my question. It provides the strength necessary and is less susceptible to a poor water-proofing by your target market, plus it comes in the sizes you would need. (Check out Aircraft Spruce as a better source than the usual hobby sources).

Best of luck in your venture!

Do you hate me now or what? LOL

Nope, never did, never expect to :)

Andy

[Darin Jordan]

From the real rules I could find... real Crackers range from 13'6" to 15'6". That's 27" to 31"...

That's a good range. Most real "scale" classes have a +/- as well... or 10%, or ???

Plenty of leway for various hull designs...

I'm thinking that the larger, and maybe even the heavier, the better... It's NOT like we are hurting for power with these power systems, and finishing the race is going to be the goal over speed...

[RandyatBBY]

Randy you always attack fixed struts no matter what hull, I get it, they are not as fast and are harder to tune, thats part of the challenge, I have built and ran surface drive CBs I can sum it up in one word BORING, Not where we want this to go, There are lots of guys on board so we might be on to something. So build one by the rules, then come to Colorado and show us how its done LOL.

No I do not attack under the hull struts on everything On 1/10 and 1/8 Scale Unlimited Hydroplanes I did not say a word becust they will work good.

I keep coming back to this thread. I must want to build one I can not race everything but it keeps drawing me. I have a Idea sence I feel I have something to prove doing it my way. How about I do it my way and only recieve 1/2 points as long as it is a surface drive set up in my boat. Would that satisfy the group? I really want to build a Cracker box I think?? I still have a lot on my plate with all the builds for new products and my own racing. But I might evan build a ABS 1/6 Cracker box with a stronger material than the stryene and go to real ABS with a laser wood frame. Styrene motor and model drivers.

[BOZINATOR]

Randy.:

[RandyatBBY]

Randy your back Show me a picture of what that set up would look like, if you have time. I believe that the straight shaft is going to be problematic with the power and rpm they will be turning. I know that making the prop parallel to the bottom made a big difference in the drive-ability of the boat(racing cracker boxes 1/4 size). But we could only hang the hardware so far behind the boat so we used a offset rudder. I was actually thinking about the drive line coming out of the transom just above the bottom...maybe a trailing rudder or off set I am not sure yet. Then the prop and drive line are not adding drag or lift at the back of the boat and the cavitation is mute in comparison. What do you need to get started?

jim

I am not sure what exactly I was going to do, I had goten so blown away from the no go attitude, I had not thought about it much more. What I had invisioned was to do about the same thing Gas boats did and just scale it down. I had wanted to do this this way becuse the 1/8 scale boats were about the same rules Gas or Electric. I was thinking more like a flex shaft just under the hull.

[Hydromaniac]

I am not sure what exactly I was going to do, I had goten so blown away from the no go attitude, I had not thought about it much more. What I had invisioned was to do about the same thing Gas boats did and just scale it down. I had wanted to do this this way becuse the 1/8 scale boats were about the same rules Gas or Electric. I was thinking more like a flex shaft just under the hull.

Randy you can run a flex shaft, but it needs to be housed in a straight stuffing tube from where the tube exits the hull and straight through the strut and the entire prop must be under the transome. Just about the same as the 1/10 scales. Also I would like to see you come out with an ABS 1/6 crackerbox.

[RandyatBBY]

Randy you can run a flex shaft, but it needs to be housed in a straight stuffing tube from where the tube exits the hull and straight through the strut and the entire prop must be under the transome. Just about the same as the 1/10 scales. Also I would like to see you come out with an ABS 1/6 crackerbox.

Did you not see my 1/2 points thing? You are pushing me away. Just let me try. If it is too weird or just un fair I will not run it at the Nats. But I could allways just run it in my district MY way and say screw the rules if I wanted. But I do not want to be a Prick. I am trying to meet you 1/2 way.

[blizard05]

I am not sure what exactly I was going to do, I had goten so blown away from the no go attitude, I had not thought about it much more. What I had invisioned was to do about the same thing Gas boats did and just scale it down. I had wanted to do this this way becuse the 1/8 scale boats were about the same rules Gas or Electric. I was thinking more like a flex shaft just under the hull.

I like that idea, make it like the gas C boxes, The straight shaft is a bugger to run I am going to modify the Dumas SK 2 to a C box

[BOZINATOR]

I .

[RandyatBBY]

Do Not get mad Jim, It is not worth it. What happend is about 8 or 9 guys decided to run the boats one way and I was against it and had no support. Now I have a few guys. We can build it a few ways flex shaft (Bent) or stright shaft . And I for one to make it fair will take 50% of the regular points. sence they want the stright shaft under the hull, this will make it fair in my mind. I do not want any one mad.