Hyper Performance Outboard

[Darin Jordan]

The mount both tilts and goes up and down.

To further expand... I've made a picture...

[Darin Jordan]

I was told by a few different people that the Bullet Drive is the way to go. It was also the one recommended by Dave.

Have you used the angle drive?

From what I've been told, the Angle drive is cool looking, but the lift characteristics and such of the Bullet Drive makes it a more robust and overall better unit... Haven't tried the Angle to know for sure, but I've seen the Bullet's in action on both P-Spec and "Open" sized (7.5) tunnels, and they work exceedingly well...

[sailr]

Good to know! Thanks Darin. The angle drive is really a lot sexier looking than the bullet drive. I'd like to hear from those running it to see how it performs.

[sailr]

No, I haven't used it but have been considering it. The bullet drive looks clunky to me with a lot of "bulk" (drag) in the water when compared to the angle drive. But maybe it's more hydrodynamic than the Angle drive. We need to hear from those using the angle drive I guess.

I was told by a few different people that the Bullet Drive is the way to go. It was also the one recommended by Dave.

Have you used the angle drive?

[raptor347]

Generally the bullet isn't in the water much. There are applications for both styles of lower unit. I find that having the prop up tighter to the transom gives me better handling on my heat racing tunnels.

[AlanN]

Stock UL-1 System with a 5000mah 20C 14.8V Zippy. I'm on my 7th cable this year,,,if I count correctly.

Ah yes but what prop are you using?

I know Brian is happy with the bullet and it definitely looks good to me but I have been using the REK for 2 years and have had limited cable failure. Alot depends on how you handle the throttle, the weight of the model, the fit of the cable between the motor coupler and lower end coupler and the prop.

[BILL OXIDEAN]

I just wanted to note that its super important to maintain the shaft on a lower leg as well.

Broke shaft due to rust cost me a finish, pull the sucker out at the end of the day and grease WELL

[raptor347]

I don't grease the outboards. I use a 50/50 mix of Marvel Mystery oil and STP. ATF and STP works good too, but MMO smells better. Squirt a little in the oil port every run. Shafts last a long time. If you really want to be sure it won't rust internally, take it out at the end of the day and store it in ATF or CorosionX.

[BILL OXIDEAN]

I don't grease the outboards. I use a 50/50 mix of Marvel Mystery oil and STP. ATF and STP works good too, but MMO smells better. Squirt a little in the oil port every run. Shafts last a long time. If you really want to be sure it won't rust internally, take it out at the end of the day and store it in ATF or CorosionX.

Simply squirting the combo into the oils passage will do?
-cool, I'm not good about removing drivelines after runs LoL..

[BILL OXIDEAN]

Ah yes but what prop are you using?

I know Brian is happy with the bullet and it definitely looks good to me but I have been using the REK for 2 years and have had limited cable failure. Alot depends on how you handle the throttle, the weight of the model, the fit of the cable between the motor coupler and lower end coupler and the prop.

Happy holidays Mr. Nayman..

[Grimracer]

Being an OB racer for years I can say with some confidence that oiling the shaft (auto oiler is best) is far better then greasing.

Not so much for cable stablity or lasting but rather making the stub shaft last.

If you are using a K+B stub with the lead Teflon bushings however its not going to matter what you do. They just will not last long.

Having said that.. I have NEVER had a sloppy stub shaft cost me a heat win. I have however had one cost me a prop in testing.. That in its self was enough to make me rethink lower units on in my racing program.

After racing for OS motors for the last 4 years I can say with out a doubt that the OS lower unit is the best I have ever used. Dollar for dollar it with out question the best you can buy.. that is until a lower price unit of similar quality and features comes out.

Largest advantages to the OS lower

Japanese Metallurgy. Not as good as Italian but as good as we have in the toy boat industry.

The cast aluminum is not to soft and not to hard.. the skeg holds a very sharp edge.
Bronze stub bushing along with shaft harness.. second to none.
Motor mount system
Distance from center line of prop shaft to bottom of cav plate


Roll the bones

Grim

[sailr]

Mike,

I really like the OS unit but the price has been the deterrant. Where is the best source for just the lower unit?

Being an OB racer for years I can say with some confidence that oiling the shaft (auto oiler is best) is far better then greasing.

Not so much for cable stablity or lasting but rather making the stub shaft last.

If you are using a K+B stub with the lead Teflon bushings however its not going to matter what you do. They just will not last long.

Having said that.. I have NEVER had a sloppy stub shaft cost me a heat win. I have however had one cost me a prop in testing.. That in its self was enough to make me rethink lower units on in my racing program.

After racing for OS motors for the last 4 years I can say with out a doubt that the OS lower unit is the best I have ever used. Dollar for dollar it with out question the best you can buy.. that is until a lower price unit of similar quality and features comes out.

Largest advantages to the OS lower

Japanese Metallurgy. Not as good as Italian but as good as we have in the toy boat industry.

The cast aluminum is not to soft and not to hard.. the skeg holds a very sharp edge.
Bronze stub bushing along with shaft harness.. second to none.
Motor mount system
Distance from center line of prop shaft to bottom of cav plate


Roll the bones

Grim

[Grimracer]

Truth is i have found you really get what you pay for here.. The K+B lower is a great handing lower but.. that’s about it.. it is inexpensive however..

The hyper bullet is a nice unit and the skeg shape right on target with what we need. Price, its not too bad at all. The bound shaft/s system just does not justify the purchase for me (just me).

Lawless.. good BUT.. until the motor mount system changes the price is to high for what you get (having said this I still have that lower on my mod tunnel). Im going to use it as long as I can to get my money out of it.. (it has won some HUGE races for me).. Too much lift for me overall however.

As a good OS sponsored driver I have to say, Its best to contact your local hobby shop or ask Steven if he can get you a OS lower. I think they might be out of stock right now so that might sway your decision. If all else falls through, try Tower..

I like winning races.. OS lower units commit to the task as hard as you test to win.. PERIOD!

Grim

p.s.. I have not broke a OS brand flex shaft in over two years (FE or Other) (AND I AM LAZY and do not yank shafts.. Hell I hardly remember what they look like!) Add 2 or three of those to your total cost.. tell me what you get!

[Greg Schweers]

Tower OS LOWER UNIT LXCP 20

[Cat-Boi]

I am truly glad you said "not as good as Italian" !!! :)

got two o.s. units coming, they just look thinner and easier to work with.

hey maybe its time I design an Italian lower unit.....?! the only lower unit that curses back at you.