P-Limited Motors - Im going to jump on the hot seat.

[Darin Jordan]

That's what I thought. You could have a 60mm can with windings that would fit in a 45mm can. I have some motors where the wind is shorter than the can and the rotor is even shorter.

Exactly. That's why I pulled the endbells off. The AQ endbells are much thinner than the ProBoat endbells, so the OAL of the motors can be deceiving.

From what I'm seeing, we've been running with 36x50 motors this whole time.

One exception may be the SV27 motor, which is a lot stouter than I think people give it credit for. I think it might be 56mm, but I'll have to carefully measure them all to know for sure.

I think THIS is the right way to go about figuring out where this class stands.

When I show you the pics of the rotors and rotor sizes, it'll be quite revealing.

[RandyatBBY]

yes jeff that was with the same m 445 prop..when I went up to the 447 it picked up another 2 mph..this was on my limited mono btw..so I went from a max of 44.6 to a max of48.9..4mph is pretty stout..and im sure with a little more tweaking on prop..or different prop,,could get a bit more

With my SS30 I run 52MPH to 54.6MPH with a 2030 that I bought in 2009. With the current 2030 motor I can not pull the same prop but with a smaller prop I do hit 52.8MPH. And Joe Slaney burns up motor until he finds one that will pull the prop he wants and runs about 55.6MPH in a dark hores shovel.

[RandyatBBY]

Exactly. That's why I pulled the endbells off. The AQ endbells are much thinner than the ProBoat endbells, so the OAL of the motors can be deceiving.

From what I'm seeing, we've been running with 36x50 motors this whole time.

One exception may be the SV27 motor, which is a lot stouter than I think people give it credit for. I think it might be 56mm, but I'll have to carefully measure them all to know for sure.

I think THIS is the right way to go about figuring out where this class stands.

When I show you the pics of the rotors and rotor sizes, it'll be quite revealing.

Bigger rotors cause more toque and smaller rotors cause more RPM

[RandyatBBY]

Need to know what you have before you can know where you're going.

I removed the endbell from an example of EACH of the current P-LTD motors. Will measure the stator to get a real idea of the current motor sizes. Have the rotors as well. I'll get some better pics for comparison/discussion later this weekend.

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One thing to note, can length can be very deceiving.

Very interesting! Thank you Darin for all your hard work.

[Darin Jordan]

Very interesting! Thank you Darin for all your hard work.

No problem, Randy. It's important enough to me, and my racing piers, to do this right.

I think once we understand what we already HAVE, we'll have a better idea of which direction to go, re: 36x60? 36x50? etc...

[ray schrauwen]

They also make this motor in TWO KVs...

Turnigy SK3 Fandrive - 3659-1900kv (90mm EDF)
Turnigy SK3 Fandrive - 3659-1600KV (90mm EDF)

Currently both in stock at Hobbyking for about $51.00.

From a Specs standpoint, it fits right in with the rest of them...

Seems like a consideration at least.

Thank you

[RandyatBBY]

When I tested the TP motor, I checked to see how it pulls off the corners, see how it pulls the top end, and how it comes out of the hole. The TP definitely pulls harder on the top end than the UL1. But the UL1 comes out of the hole better and pulls the turns better. If I had a choice for off shore, I'd use the UL1. I ran the TP in my Mono with a 545; it's probably the second fastest boat in the Club. So, I tried a 645, and it just couldn't pull it like the 545. Today I ran my whip with the Pro-Boat 1500 and an ABC 1915-17; the boat gps'd at 55. I'm sure it could use more prop. With a UL1 motor and the ABC 1715-17, the boat ran 57. Two days ago I tried a Turnigy SK-3 3659 1900 kv. I ran this with an H5, and it ran 56 mph. For the money ($50), this motor could be a good choice. I'll send this motor to Darrin. This year I'm running conservative on all my setups. I want to go a whole year without burning up a motor--10 races so far/0 burnt motors. Even if we have 20 motors on the list, we all know one's going to rise to the top.

Good Info. Thanks I would like to see the same thing motors for $50 that last for the year. So I can put more money in to my motor home and Keep the rolling ghetto on the road and running to races. If possible I might come up to the Nats next year. But that is another subject.

[Doug Smock]

Need to know what you have before you can know where you're going.

I removed the endbell from an example of EACH of the current P-LTD motors. Will measure the stator to get a real idea of the current motor sizes. Have the rotors as well. I'll get some better pics for comparison/discussion later this weekend.

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One thing to note, can length can be very deceiving.

Now you're getting to the meat and taters! Exactly what we need to be looking at!

Thanks Darin.

[Ken Haines]

And Joe Slaney burns up motor until he finds one that will pull the prop he wants and runs about 55.6MPH in a dark hores shovel.

That typo is pretty funny.....
Terry we could have fun with this after a few drinks

[madmikepags]

Hey guys how about we have a list of motors like you say, for urs mine or any club to use but for *!***!***!***!**s and giggles lets say the host club of a big event like a nationals picks a motor (from the approved list) and we have "hand out" motors?? they can pick the motor well enough in advance so you know what you're gonna get. build the price of the motor into the entry fee (if you tell any manufacturer ur gonna buy 50-100 motors and they'll give you a deal). Just a thought I haven't read this whole thread and maybe someone all ready brought this up. This is what we used to do years ago in car racing before brushless, it actually worked pretty well, the guys that knew how to tune motors well were faster, this will turn out the same way with the guys who know how to tune props, there's always someone with an advantage!!!

[Brushless55]

..

[jaike5]

Again, to keep a level playing for the less experienced, and the new guy with his outta the box unit...... woh, let me rephrase that ! With his rtr. A stock esc of one kind or the other or both will keep the prop mods to a dull roar. Or you will have p - limiteds like Larry's with high amp hvdra's with massive cap banks and other internal mods to be able to swing outrageous prop's. his p- limited whip is really quick should be in p, and be faster than most.
Cheers, Jay.

[ray schrauwen]

Could be, not should be. He has worked that same hull for a good 5 years and his props aren't that outrageous. His ecs is rated at 120 amps from Castle. You have that same hull for n2, just pull out the motor and have at him.

[Darin Jordan]

I received the TP3660-1950 and the Leopard 3650-1840 today.

The 3660 TP definitely has WAY more copper on there. I'll get measurements once I get test data.

[jaike5]

Ray , try and be factual. the 120 hydra may be rated at that from the factory. With the mods 4 x 35v, 470 uf Rub. caps external bec with the internal bec disconnected runs 10* cooler , we all know what that means. makes for a well over the rated 120 amps, larry boasts 240 amp.

Cheers, Jay.