Shocker 2nd Rebuild - Video

[kevinpratt823]

Yeah I've never tried to vent mine either, I've got a couple of Hyperions that will air swell the wrappers sometimes. I just deal with it and they return to normal when they cool.

It is not AIR that causes the swelling, there is plenty of info out there that will scare you out of doing something arguably reckless like I did. Give this thread a read for example-http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1258876

From that thread-"Actually, the gas will be Hydrogen, and possibly some amounts of Hydrogen Flouride, which is very nasty stuff. Hydrogen gas is flammable. Hydrogen Flouride gas is not, but it reacts with moisture (say on your skin) to form Hydroflouric Acid, which is about as bad as it comes."

Also-"Did you know that when outgassing it can develop a static charge which will create a "torch" flame."

[dmitry100]

Is it ever a good idea to tightly pack the lipos when mounting them in the boat? I've been using a bit of foam to pack them in between the sponsons.
I figured the lipos need some space to expand and started using less foam for more wiggle room and some velcro.... so that they aren't packed in too tight.

Definitely will need to get myself some lipo sleds...

BTW... So this lag I'm noticing is it mostly the doing of the SF Esc's ?
It did seem like the farther the boat went out the more lag I started seeing. It becomes barely controllable.

A radio that comes with some temp and voltage telemetry would be super useful to get the most of the lipos too.
What radios are you guys using that work well in distances?

[kevinpratt823]

Many have great experience with spektrum, and I love it in all my cars, but I finally caved because it would constantly cut out in certain areas at both ponds I run in. Switched to Futaba and haven't lost range yet, amd I'm traveling pretty darn far out.

[dmitry100]

Are you using the Spektrum marine receivers too? How you tried their telemetry before?

[tlandauer]

It is not AIR that causes the swelling, there is plenty of info out there that will scare you out of doing something arguably reckless like I did. Give this thread a read for example-http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1258876

From that thread-"Actually, the gas will be Hydrogen, and possibly some amounts of Hydrogen Flouride, which is very nasty stuff. Hydrogen gas is flammable. Hydrogen Flouride gas is not, but it reacts with moisture (say on your skin) to form Hydroflouric Acid, which is about as bad as it comes."

Also-"Did you know that when outgassing it can develop a static charge which will create a "torch" flame."

Yup, def has to be careful and knowledgeable to handle this stuff. I will do more reading. Thanks for the link.

[kevinpratt823]

Are you using the Spektrum marine receivers too? How you tried their telemetry before?

I was using marine rx's, my (4) MR200's are in the swap shop now if interested. Plenty of people swear by them, but there's just something funky in a couple little "holes" at my pond, loses signal in the same spot, but can travel twice as far in other directions...
Never really used the telemetry, and honestly never really cared to. I time my runs, usually 3 minutes, and check it all when it comes back.

[flraptor07]

It is not AIR that causes the swelling, there is plenty of info out there that will scare you out of doing something arguably reckless like I did. Give this thread a read for example-http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1258876

From that thread-"Actually, the gas will be Hydrogen, and possibly some amounts of Hydrogen Flouride, which is very nasty stuff. Hydrogen gas is flammable. Hydrogen Flouride gas is not, but it reacts with moisture (say on your skin) to form Hydroflouric Acid, which is about as bad as it comes."

Also-"Did you know that when outgassing it can develop a static charge which will create a "torch" flame."

Thanx Kevin, good read! I too had the same issues with Spektrum and no problem at all with Futaba on the same lake.

[iridebikes247]

Pack temperature is fine. Also it looks pretty warm where you're running the boat, leave the boat outside for 20 minutes with the hatch off and take a temp gun to everything you'll see stuff gets hot just being outside.

Anyway the boat looks great, sucks you had to go through that lengthy process of fixing all of that bs. When it comes to lipos swelling is normal, you have a high amp setup. Most of my batteries swell a tiny bit after a run but go down within an hour or two. If a pack STAYS puffed after a few days then you may or may not have a problem. When performance starts to suffer by more than a few mph then its time to retire a pack EVEN if it looks fine.

Nailing it from a dead stop is really hard on everything but seeing as you didn't have much room a dragster launch would probably be the only way to get good speed at that place.

[dmitry100]

So one of my stinger's stabilizer mounts got bent, screw from a motor mount got loose which resulted in some breakage in the flex-- which isn't bad since it didn't unwind and it's near the collet so I soldered that portion of it. Hopefully the flex won't blow up...

Got my Futaba 4PLS today so hopefully I'll have some better speed readings from some good distance runs.

[dmitry100]

Any of you guys have any idea how to remove the bushings on the 3/16 OSE drives?

Thinking to throw some Boca bearings on there... or would any potential speed or temp gains be marginal? What do you guys think...

[dmitry100]

My flex shaft just snapped like 1 minute into my run... was hoping to test out my new radio and gps!

I'm assuming these flex shaft assemblies aren't repairable with any loctite right? :/

[srislash]

I haven't had to try yet but I think you could clean up the parts and do over. I would clean them really well though. Without grinding. I think if you put them in the oven at the release temp(stated on product) and worked quick you could get it out(Loctite).

[dmitry100]

Guys... What kind of props should I try next? Some CNC 3 blade's perhaps or some decent B/S Octura x447 or m447's ?

[srislash]

If you go to 447's then adjust your drive positive a touch. Another option would be some CNC 1.6 props

[dmitry100]

Should I go with octura m447's or x447's ?

Currently I'm using the CNC 448's ... drives are neutral and I am noticing more lift overall than the 445's.
Why would it be better to adjust the drives positive a bit rather than adjusting batteries further up to keep nose down?

Though it seems like as soon as I start adjusting drive positive... things get a bit warmer.