Rivercat is Done

[Newboater]

Alright finished her up painted and decal work. Straight run on the rudder linkage with M4 bar and m4 ball link ends. When the weather breaks and the water is liquid this boat is going hunting for the Plum crazy road runner boat. You know who you are

[fweasel]

Clean build. How 'bout some shots of the inside!

[Newboater]

Clean build. How 'bout some shots of the inside!

I will post pictures of the inside later today. Did you notice I took your advice and ran the steering linkage straight out the back.

[Bp9145]

Nice clean looking boat. I especially like the skeleton finger(s). .:):)

[fweasel]

I will post pictures of the inside later today. Did you notice I took your advice and ran the steering linkage straight out the back.

I had forgotten about that. It looks proper now, that's for sure. Your steering response will thank you! My one other suggestion is to shield the cooling hose from the prop as best as you can when choosing your routing path. I would snake it through the rudder bracket opening and into the hull between the transom rudder standoff and the push rod rubber bellow. The cooling tube on my 27" mini zonda, setup much like yours is currently on the back end, penetrates the hull to the left of the transom rudder stand off. This makes the loop of cooling hose long and flexible and has been cut by my prop during a flip on more than one occasion. The first time it happened, the cut wasn't completely through, and it was almost a game ender for the electronics on board if another driver standing next to me didn't notice it.

[Linewbie]

Looks great Newboater, can't wait to check it out at the lake. Love the paint work, it looks really clean. Gonna need some internal pix a fweasel said. I'll be done shortly, and may use the SSS that came out of my Promarine if the Leopard I replaced it with works out in that hull. Turbo Dan gave me a stock Pursuit SSS motor to start with, so Ill be using that for starters. Talk to you soon.

[Newboater]

I had forgotten about that. It looks proper now, that's for sure. Your steering response will thank you! My one other suggestion is to shield the cooling hose from the prop as best as you can when choosing your routing path. I would snake it through the rudder bracket opening and into the hull between the transom rudder standoff and the push rod rubber bellow. The cooling tube on my 27" mini zonda, setup much like yours is currently on the back end, penetrates the hull to the left of the transom rudder stand off. This makes the loop of cooling hose long and flexible and has been cut by my prop during a flip on more than one occasion. The first time it happened, the cut wasn't completely through, and it was almost a game ender for the electronics on board if another driver standing next to me didn't notice it.

I would rather do the water line like they do on the Genesis hull through the top. I like to keep as few holes as possible that are at or below the water line.

[Newboater]

Okay internal pics like promised, water lines all installed and now we just wait for the weather to turn nice again

[Linewbie]

Interior looks nice and clean, really good. Paint looks nicely laid down in those close up pix. What are you using for the hatch gasket? I still have not ordered my material yet as I would prefer to score it locally and save the 10.00 on shipping.

[Newboater]

I am using Neoprene foam tape as it is listed as waterproof. Bought a role of like 30 feet so when you are ready I have enough. I usually buy it off Amazon. Depending on how you plan on doing it will determine the thickness you need. What I used there is .25 wide and .125 thick(1/8")

[Linewbie]

I wonder if 1/4in. will be wide enough? I guess if the hatch cant shift around at all you should be good to go.

[Newboater]

Both the hatches on this boat and the Silver fox only have about 1/16" of play. The 1/4" width was plenty wide. I try and keep the seal as close to the outside edge of the boat as possible so when you install the hatch you crush the seal down.

[Linewbie]

Cant wait to check it out.

[fweasel]

Will your motor mount allow you to rotate the water jacket so that the forward hose barb is closer to 12:00? Can't tell if the lower 90* barb would be able to live between the hull and motor mount side rail. Doing so will fill your cooling jacket with more water. Also, it's hard to follow your cooling lines, but do you have the motor mount plumbed before the water jacket? If so, I would recommend you cool the motor jacket after the ESC and before the motor mount, if the mount is even necessary at all.

[Newboater]

Water cooling goes to the ESC first. Then it goes into the front part of the motor mount, into the cooling can, and then out of the boat. That was a good idea with the cooling can. I will have to take a look at that to see if I have room rotate it.