Lightly cup the hopping prop near the outer edge of the blade.
OSE 10s rigger build
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Here's my 2 pennies; before bending on any props, I would try some negitive angle in the stut (prop end down). Assuming that you are currently at 0* angle (flat); it could take as little as -1* to take the hop out.Originally posted by Steven Vaccaro View PostStill dragging its tail. Seems once i get the tail out of the water it hops. Any ideas?
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We only ran one 2 5s packs in series. Next time out I'll run the 4 packs to make 10s2p. The weight and balance will completing change, so I'll be interested to see what happens then.Steven Vaccaro
Where Racing on a Budget is a Reality!
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Steve;
drop the strut aprox. 1/8" and keep it level.
With the ABC line of props they lift alot. keep the strut level.
if the back end still hops, you will have to actually adjust the strut positive by just a hair
to remove the hopping.
If you dont like the way the boat is running after that, then switch over to a 14 or 16 series Octura prop. (still keeping the strut level)
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sorrry Im not sure without testing some. I would say that I dont think I would run that motor on 14s. I think 10s, or even 12s would be good. Reason I say this is that Im not sure how the magnets will hold up under that much rpm. But good like and post your results.Originally posted by jasontodd View Postnice boat steve ..also using a 2028.. what prop for 14s?? :)
jason
[ATTACH=CONFIG]100436[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]100437[/ATTACH]Steven Vaccaro
Where Racing on a Budget is a Reality!
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14S is far too much for the CC2028, that's 40,000 rpm unloaded while the factory says not to exceed 30,000 rpm. Plus 40,000 is SAW territory, not for sport running or oval racing. If you want that kind of voltage, it's better to use a motor with a lower Kv. BTW you can't get NAMBA or IMPBA insurance for a 14S boat....
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