For me "legal" means nada, zip, zilch, zero, nuthin, lol. I've been in RC for over 25yrs now. I tried the racing thing for a couple of seasons. Just not my thing, love to watch and help out though. I wasnt very good either. So, I am a confirmed "basher" although I very very rarely "bash" my vehicles. Thanks for this idea PC, I did a very similar deal to my motor, which is now for sale in the classifieds.
Blueprinting UL-1 Motor Wires
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ive been running the same ul-1 on my outboard tunnel for 2 years and a m445 never had a problem yet.....these motors are prob mass produced and i am sure u can get one that s not going to last as long as others....just my 2 centsMY RETIREMENT PLAN?????.....POWERBALL
74 vintage kirby clasic hydro, pursuit mono, mg, 47'' mono, popeye hydro...
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Today i opened up my UL1 motor and found one of these wires with worn away insulation. The wires had bullets installed so I just wrap wires using black electrical tape.
I also added an extra capacitor on esc for added insurance, since Fluid just recently popped Aquacraft's factory cap.
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I hope the electrical tape was "approved" by the governing bodies...Grand River Marine Modellers
https://www.facebook.com/search/top/...ne%20modellers
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Having converted my motors back to run at the nats This year. I seen enough that I believe its simply a matter of having the three wires touching via the one big heat shrink. To me it seems to create a hot spot at that point. Just cutting that shrink and separating them should help. Granted u gota be pushing stuff fairly hard to have a issue. And also to me monos and sport hydro seem to be the hardest on the motors . Riggers and tunnel not so much. Just my opinion
Jason sims
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Unfortunately that won't do much more than extra heat shrink since it would still need to be soldered to the hard strand winding wires.Originally posted by xlandguy View PostAquacraft should address the issue of cheapo wiring, why not beef it up, put at least 12g wire on there, and esc for cripes sake. Whats the use of upgrading to better connectors and stuff if the wires are only 14g?
Out of stupidity I burnt up 2 perfectly good non modified ul-1 motors because I over propped in a too heavy boat on a very hot day.
If you overload them, you overload them, there is not much more to them after 100 amps for a short period of time.
Nortavlag Bulc 
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Exactly. A hot spot is created where the three wires are bundled together. My guess is that AQ has put the shrink there to prevent chafing on the sharp edges where they exit. Solves this problem but creates another, unfortunately.Originally posted by line6 View PostHaving converted my motors back to run at the nats This year. I seen enough that I believe its simply a matter of having the three wires touching via the one big heat shrink. To me it seems to create a hot spot at that point. Just cutting that shrink and separating them should help. Granted u gota be pushing stuff fairly hard to have a issue. And also to me monos and sport hydro seem to be the hardest on the motors . Riggers and tunnel not so much. Just my opinion
Jason sims
Riggers run looser, and tunnels have the wires exposed to the airstream so less heat=less chance of insulation heat damage. The 5.5's provide lower resistance to the overall current stream, so the damage point becomes passed along to the wires just inside the endbell which become the next "burn site". I agree that the LTD motors need to be the same for everybody to respect the intent of the class so the current rule of leaving the motors "as delivered" accomplishes this and forces one to delve into the secret Oriental practice of " Too-Ning" to achieve competitiveness while remaining in compliance ( 'tho learning this has cost me a few motors.)
If you overload them, you overload them, there is not much more to them after 100 amps for a short period of time.
Apparantly Ray-San has discovered this ancient hidden secret and has generously shared the root cause
Thank you, Sir.
Last edited by properchopper; 07-09-2012, 06:11 PM.2008 NAMBA P-Mono & P-Offshore Nat'l 2-Lap Record Holder; '15 P-Cat, P-Ltd Cat 2-Lap
2009/2010 NAMBA P-Sport Hydro Nat'l 2-Lap Record Holder, '13 SCSTA P-Ltd Cat High Points
'11 NAMBA [P-Ltd] : Mono, Offshore, OPC, Sport Hydro; '06 LSO, '12,'13,'14 P Ltd Cat /Mono
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That knock on your door you'll soon hear will be the NAMBA Police.
Originally posted by G1ST View PostFinally did this mod today to my trusty old UL-1 motor. Should have taken pictures but mine was in much worse shape than yours.
The FE gods let it live
Thanks for the great tip Tony
Greg2008 NAMBA P-Mono & P-Offshore Nat'l 2-Lap Record Holder; '15 P-Cat, P-Ltd Cat 2-Lap
2009/2010 NAMBA P-Sport Hydro Nat'l 2-Lap Record Holder, '13 SCSTA P-Ltd Cat High Points
'11 NAMBA [P-Ltd] : Mono, Offshore, OPC, Sport Hydro; '06 LSO, '12,'13,'14 P Ltd Cat /Mono
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Originally posted by properchopper View Post
If you overload them, you overload them, there is not much more to them after 100 amps for a short period of time.
Apparantly Ray-San has discovered this ancient hidden secret and has generously shared the root cause
Thank you, Sir.
Unfortunately I am a bit of a blonde when it comes to the UL-1 motor and my PTSS. At Michigan I burned up both the motor and a 150A esc. I think the esc took out the motor but, whatever...
I now have a very stinky boat.
What prop do you suggest I start with my PTSS and a UL-1 motor? 642? Because, the M445 I tried fried everything after 3 laps...
Nortavlag Bulc 
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You should never burn up a motor with these props H-10, X442, 640 and a 42x55 . I have been liking the S-15 tooOriginally posted by ray schrauwen View PostUnfortunately I am a bit of a blonde when it comes to the UL-1 motor and my PTSS. At Michigan I burned up both the motor and a 150A esc. I think the esc took out the motor but, whatever...
I now have a very stinky boat.
What prop do you suggest I start with my PTSS and a UL-1 motor? 642? Because, the M445 I tried fried everything after 3 laps...
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Yep, the problem is that most everyone was running 445's, 545's, H5's, and I even heard of an H7!!! Tough crowd last weekend!! lol!!
I've been running this do-hickey for some time now and haven't burnt up any wires. No mods to the motor itself. Motor is as-manufactured. Just slips over the end bell.
BTW Ray - You've got yourself one heck of a great lady to put up with the ESC stink all the way home! My wife almost made me drop a boat hull in the garbage at the gas station one trip!
See ya!
Pete
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