Cooling brain fart

[G Doggett]

It's an interesting topic, but I can't help feeling you guys are attempting to solve a problem that doesn't exist. !
Graham.

[pescador]

There are also these thermoelectric Peltier coolers they use in aquariums and computers maybe somebody could figure out an application for them.
Keep your water tank cold electrically?

http://shop.ebay.com/i.html?_nkw=peltier+cooler&_armrs=1&_from=&_ipg=

[Simon.O.]

Another approach to cooling if you realy need a lot for overloaded setups is to pre cool. I do this with my 4S rigger. I have a window washer pump and bottle and hoses that circulates iced water to the motor prior to a run. I can also use it post run.
This is only for my big rigger.
All of my other setups get what water the need out on the water and as Jeff said a few moments on/in the water prior to pulling it out is all they need.

[sailr]

could one of those be used as an 'electronic heatsink' on an esc?

There are also these thermoelectric Peltier coolers they use in aquariums and computers maybe somebody could figure out an application for them.
Keep your water tank cold electrically?
http://shop.ebay.com/i.html?_nkw=pel...1&_from=&_ipg=

[Jeff Wohlt]

Yes they can. They begin cooling pretty fast. Just need a 12v source. Oh and when reversed they heat to 140 degrees...warming lipos? Heck yes!

[sailr]

Very interesting. I wonder if a small 3S pack would be enough amps to drive it. Hmmmm, might want to do some more detailed investigation. I have seen the little coolers that plug into your cigarette lighter at garage sales pretty cheap. Might be worth buying one and tearing it apart.

Yes they can. They begin cooling pretty fast. Just need a 12v source. Oh and when reversed they heat to 140 degrees...warming lipos? Heck yes!

[Jeff Wohlt]

Yep, but you can buy them for $6 on e-bay. They are a bit amp hungry.

[sailr]

Yeah, I saw where they say MAX 6A. I suppose the more 'exchange' of heat to cool, the higher the amp draw. I would think a 3S 2200 30C battery should drive it although it is below 12V which might drive the amps up even more....right? Interesting to think about anyway. May not be practical on anything smaller than a P mono though. If it works it sure would be an interesting concept.

Yep, but you can buy them for $6 on e-bay. They are a bit amp hungry.

[Jeff Wohlt]

I think it will work fine on the 3s. They have some volt spread and I think all the way up to 15v.

Sure would be an easy adaption. I was thinking 1 per layer...if they are ceramic coated then no worries about shorting if touching the stack above.

Can a person split a himodel ESC to slip them in the layers?

[Steven Vaccaro]

This is cool, but I have a another suggestion for sport running. Run a larger mass motor than needed. For example I fried the 380L motor in my delta 25 because of a simple leaf in the tubing. I switched to a 540L, same speed but dont even need cooling any longer.

[Ken Haines]

Spec classes

Hi Steve,
Certainly you are correct on using larger than required motors, ESC, Batteries etc. to lower all the temps, but I'm challenged by the LSO & LSH restrictions. Especially in LSO when a 4 minute run is required. Since we have a spec power system your current options all sacrifice speed. I'm not much for that so I blow up a lot of motors.
I do beleive that we are looking at a chemical coolant ie; freon or ice packs or an efficient electrical cooling system. Maybe someone will have an even better idea. I'm still concerned about the coolant loop volume. Even the water pickup sytems turn the water pretty hot, just feel thewater outlet water on most of your boats when you pull them out of the water. Sometimes than little trickle of water is even hot enogh to sting you. Cooling takes time and if the flow cycle duration is too short the heat transfer will not have time enough to occur. I do not think however that slower flow is the answer either, although some would challenge this physics would not agree with them.
Pardon me everyone I work at a nuclear plant, some of the same cooling theories apply, maybe thats why I'm so interested in this topic. Sorry to geek out !!!
This is good stuff from everyone lets keep this going.
Thanks, Ken

[paulwilliams]

Pardon me everyone I work at a nuclear plant

[Ken Haines]

My Photo

Hey Paul,
How did you get my photo ? lol.

Good one you got me.

Ken

[paulwilliams]

Hey Paul,
How did you get my photo ? lol.

Good one you got me.

Ken

Sorry Ken, couldn't resist that one! Many years ago, I worked on this:



UK's first (and maybe only/last??) PWR.

Paul

[pescador]

I think it will work fine on the 3s. They have some volt spread and I think all the way up to 15v.

Sure would be an easy adaption. I was thinking 1 per layer...if they are ceramic coated then no worries about shorting if touching the stack above.

Can a person split a himodel ESC to slip them in the layers?

One thing with these, they move heat, they don't dissipate it you still have to use some sort of heat sink.
Should be easy to salvage one from a pc or even teamed up with one of the little esc fans.