Feeler thread- FE 1/10 scale unlimited hydro class in IMPBA

[don ferrette]

Ok so I gotta admit the 1/10th scale FE class running in NAMBA has me intrigued. Some things I like- they are based on 4S power which keeps it affordable so people could run "the pretty boats" without spending a couple grand to do so. There are already kits readily available (ML Boatworks has almost 30 different kits and can do more) and ABS cowls as well. Things I'm on the fence about- P limited power choices but I'm leaning more in favor of it as again it keeps costs down and obviously not a records eligible class if it catches on nationally. Things I don't like- running counterclockwise. Yeah I get it the real boats run that way but we don't run 1/8 that way and everything else goes clockwise. No curved turn fins, personally I like the idea of better handling boats.

So.........

I'd like some POSITIVE and CONSTRUCTIVE input from IMPBA folks who might want to try this out and NAMBA racers who already run it and what they like about it. Ideas and thoughts are welcome BUT if there are any "pissin' and moanin" posts I'll ask mods to remove them immediately. I think we could try this on a district/local level and I'd have no issues with writing a set of rules.

So let's hear some thoughts and feedback.

[RayR]

Don,

my thoughts mirror yours, would prefer clockwise and stable handling. As well, a 36”boat is a lot easier to transport.

[T.S.Davis]

We love this class up here Don. We adopted a version of the NAMBA rule set with some modifications. I can send it to ya. We went with motor size instead of the list form NAMBA. We limited guys to 1700kv but rely on the honer system. We can do that locally. Everyone runs the same danged motor anyway.

Turning left makes it even cooler. It's something different. Honestly, the tuning becomes much like the real boats. You can't just throw power at them. Especially the vintage. Those old shovel get weird when pushed. So it comes down to strut adjustments, CG, prop lift vs pitch vs thrust cone, ride pads, wings actually do something. It's just a different thought process. Different challenges.

I think the coolest bit is that all of the boats are similar in speed. Nobody runs away with the class. They look bad a$$ racing too.

I believe the guys in Seattle run a number of different versions. Like a stock modern, stock vintage, and an open modern. They have the numbers to pull it off though. The stock class runs a motor list. Open is just that......go crazy. Those sound like expensive crashes though.

[raptor347]

Spec power is PLENTY for these boats. They're faster than most designs can handle. On the 1500 kV motor, 19xx and 20xx series ABC props are common.

Turning direction used to be very limiting due to prop selection. Not a problem anymore with all the RH ABC props available.

The vintage boats with the small skid fin tend to get together in the corners a lot. there are design tweaks you can make to the hull to get them to turn pretty well.

I'd skip the strait driveline rule, makes tuning so much easier. The strait shaft rule really leans toward the serious prop guys.

The boats are cool. The ML kits run great and there are some very good composite boats available as well.

Just my take after 10 years of exposure.

[don ferrette]

Good stuff, keep it coming. Here's something that got put out to me in an email- if we truly want to help keep costs down make it wood only hulls, no composites or glass. Hmmm......... interesting as it does keep the high dollar carbon, etc types out of the equation and that would help keep weight fairly similar I would think. Gotta admit I can see a positive side to that, anyone please feel free to comment on that thought.

[T.S.Davis]

For what it's worth......we have wood ML kits and multiple composites in our club. The Bradshaw boats look incredible but that doesn't make them win. We also have a NAMBA nats wining Snowman boat. It's probably the fastest composite in our gang. It's no match for the wood ML kit I build for Ty. I totally get wanting to keep the cost down but don't get hung up on composite vs wood. Doesn't equate to wins. I think (I could yet be proven wrong) that it would be tough to buy wins in this class.

Honestly, wins are a bonus. The fun of the class is them being out there together looking like the real thing. Two shovels coming out out of 4 together is just cool to see. You can almost imagine the driver gritting his teeth to keep from biting his tongue off.

[leonard feeback]

Another thing to think about is not everyone can build a wood hull. Now they have to have it built and the cost is back to wood and building cost equals composite. I'm with Terry, you still have to have a good setup and handling boat and a little luck to win. This class ISN'T a over powered hulls to get a win. Fun and close racing at a fun speed.

[don ferrette]

Thanks Terry and Leonard, point well taken. Also so far with IMPBA folks I've chatted with about this the vast majority want clockwise running to keep it simple for both racers and those running it, I'm basically on board with that myself as well but still in the discussion phase. Again keep the feedback coming as it's greatly appreciated.

[T.S.Davis]

I would avoid flipping the bird to existing NAMBA racers. If it ever did take off you want cross over racers. Think NAMBA 1/8 scale. Planning to run NAMBA 1/8 scale ever in yer life? That class is dead to IMPBA racers.

[don ferrette]

I would avoid flipping the bird to existing NAMBA racers. If it ever did take off you want cross over racers. Think NAMBA 1/8 scale. Planning to run NAMBA 1/8 scale ever in yer life? That class is dead to IMPBA racers.

They killed off half of their own FE 1/8 guys with that move but don't get me started on that one ...... again. Honestly I'm going to build mine (kit shipped today) with a backer behind both sponson heals so I can do a turn fin on either side. Even if we were to go clockwise a simple prop change, motor connection swap to change rotation and turn fin change and it'll go the other way. And I wonder how many NAMBA guys would actually cross not to mention NAMBA has flipped the bird to the IMPBA a few times (FE 1/8 scale, gas thunderboat, sport 40.....)

[T.S.Davis]

I get it but with FE we don't have a crap ton of racers to begin with. We need to not piss up each organizations legs if we can avoid it. Flipping the bird to NAMBA because NAMBA did is like two wrongs making a right. I honestly don't care about this organization/that organization. What ever gets guys to play toy boats and even better.....race em. Let's do that. Boats on the water.....racing.......yes please.

I think you would dig the lefties Don. It's something different and the boats that we're trying to emulate don't turn right anyway.

[don ferrette]

I get it but with FE we don't have a crap ton of racers to begin with. We need to not piss up each organizations legs if we can avoid it. Flipping the bird to NAMBA because NAMBA did is like two wrongs making a right. I honestly don't care about this organization/that organization. What ever gets guys to play toy boats and even better.....race em. Let's do that. Boats on the water.....racing.......yes please.

I think you would dig the lefties Don. It's something different and the boats that we're trying to emulate don't turn right anyway.

Agreed, in the end it's about getting boats on the water.

[T.S.Davis]

Heats.....even better

[785boats]

If our AMPBA here in Australia ever wanted expressions of interest for 1/10 scale racing, I'd be the first to vote yes.
I love the whole idea of emulating the real thing. Looks like bags of fun to me.

[don ferrette]

Regardless of what direction we decide to run in the thing that I think is gonna really give this a kick in pants to get going is cost. I've already ordered the motor, mount and ESC, once the ML kit gets here early next week I'll figure battery space and order what I need. Bottom line is I'll have less than $250 in the entire drive train, I've spent far more than that just for the motor in my FE 1/8 scales. About $200 will cover an ML kit, ABS cowl from Hydroscale, ply sheeting and glue. Add in some hardware, paint (you can even use rattle cans 'cause it's FE) and graphics and you can be on the water for as little as $800. Affordable, smaller and more manageable size of the prettiest boats on the water, I think we might have a winner here.