New 2004 Miss Budweiser T-6 Build

[785boats]

I find the simplest way, without heat or salt or sand etc, is to roll a couple of layers of masking tape around the 1/4" flex shaft to make it a slightly better fit into the tube. The tape only needs to be a bit longer than the bend you want to make.
Then insert it into the tube & form the bend with your thumbs & fingers, a little bit at a time while moving your pressure point backwards & forwards along the length of the curve that you want.

It works much like the bending springs we use at work to bend PVC conduits.

There are also any number of places that sell external bending springs for small tubes.

http://www.ebay.com/bhp/spring-tube-bender

[Tom G]

Steve has that covered :)
https://www.offshoreelectrics.com/bend-brass-tubing.php


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Thanks for the input
I had already had annealed the tube. BUT I had a brain Fart a local guy here reminded me to leave the flex in the tube

[Tom G]

I find the simplest way, without heat or salt or sand etc, is to roll a couple of layers of masking tape around the 1/4" flex shaft to make it a slightly better fit into the tube. The tape only needs to be a bit longer than the bend you want to make.
Then insert it into the tube & form the bend with your thumbs & fingers, a little bit at a time while moving your pressure point backwards & forwards along the length of the curve that you want.

It works much like the bending springs we use at work to bend PVC conduits.

There are also any number of places that sell external bending springs for small tubes.

http://www.ebay.com/bhp/spring-tube-bender

Thanks for the input
I had already had annealed the tube. BUT I had a brain Fart a local guy here reminded me to leave the flex shaft in the tube and slide some heat shrink tube over the flex shaft to help take up the extra space in the tube .

[785boats]

Cool.
I like the heat shrink idea. Sounds easier than rolling the masking tape around the flex.
I'll give that a go next time.

[Tom G]

Cool.
I like the heat shrink idea. Sounds easier than rolling the masking tape around the flex.
I'll give that a go next time.

Plus there is no chance of the tape getting stuck in the Tube. If the heat shrink stays in the tube for some weird reason just take a heat gun and blow hot air down the tube it will shrink the heat shrink tubing and it will fall right out of the brass tube

[Tom G]

A little more forward progress for the mock up. Add some CF reinforcement to the high stress areas of the rear wing vertical stabilizers.

Fab-d up the attachment point's for the upper rear wing stabilizer rods.

A little more tweaking to get all the angles right ,install some flotation foam & then epoxy the vertical stabilizer half's together and move on too the rear wing and front canard
IMG_1250.JPG IMG_1247.JPG IMG_1248.JPG

[785boats]

Hi Tom.
Looking good.

Could you give a few more details on how the fin braces are attached into the fins please. The photos you have posted won't enlarge when I click on them for some reason.
Where did you get the bits & pieces for the rods & attachments? I need to make up something for my U-3 Turbinator.

Also, in relation to your CoG. Have you measured it with everything in place including the fins & wing & cowling.
I ask this because your batteries seem to be so far back behind the sponson transoms in your earlier posts.
I need to get my batteries right up into the nose pod to get the CoG within an inch of the transoms. And the motor as far forward as practical. Again, that's allowing for everything else in place along the rear of the boat.

Cheers.
Paul.

[Todd Fleury]

That boat in the photo looks really familiar.

[Tom G]

Where did you get the bits & pieces for the rods & attachments? I need to make up something for my U-3 Turbinator.

The bracket is a piece of .065 x 1/4 x 1 1/2 stainless flat stock bent 90deg.s available from Octura for air plane rudder support hardware and held in place with epoxy on the inside an 2 ea 2-56 screws & nuts and washers . Available @ Micro Fasteners
IMG_1252.JPGIMG_1254.JPG


RC Boat Co sells the rest of the the hardware bracket and rods ect http://rcboatcompany.com/AluminumParts.html

Also, in relation to your CoG. Have you measured it with everything in place including the fins & wing & cowling.
I ask this because your batteries seem to be so far back behind the sponson transoms in your earlier posts.
I need to get my batteries right up into the nose pod to get the CoG within an inch of the transoms. And the motor as far forward as practical. Again, that's allowing for everything else in place along the rear of the boat.

The CG is close to what was mention as pictured all the hardware -motor installed and cowling just sitting on the boat. And balancing on a 1/4 dia rod across the width of the boat, 1 inch behind the sponson transoms. My 300 A ESC is quit heave @ 1 lbs .

With the battery's in the nose forward radio box location it's was quit nose heavy.

Hope that answers all Ur ??

[785boats]

Thanks for the info Tom.
I can easily fashion something up like that from all the Bits'n'Pieces I have lying around. Just needed the visual to kick my old brain into gear.
The rest of the brackets I can also make.
Unfortunately the cost & the exchange rate & the postage to Australia, makes them far too expensive to buy. The Egg pod & ram wings cost me a small fortune & the rear wing & fins were out of the question. That's why I'm making my own.
I'll just have to deal with the weight penalty


I guess the wooden boats are a lot heavier aft of the sponsons than a glass boat. Plus the fact that I am making the fins & wing from ply, makes them a lot heavier too.

I'll keep playing around with the weight distribution. A lifting prop & some negative angle on the strut will help of course.

Thanks again for your help.

Cheers.
Paul.

[Tom G]

Fab of the rear wing vertical stabilizer’s and setting of there camber angles done.

IMG_1258.JPG

Time to move on to assembling the rear wing and designing a method so adjusting its caster so is not a total pain in the butt.

I learned a lot on the Nitro boat and the Definitely not going to do the same design on this FE Hull

[Tom G]

The CF material I ordered for the rear wing end plates will not be here till Tues. (5 days to travel 500 miles come on USPS Priority Mail a Chihuahua could make the trip faster )

Since the replacement stuffing box tubing showed up Friday back to that project. So as to keep the build progressing forward. Racing season is stately approaching.

Installing some heat shrink tubing on the flex shaft to take up the gap between the flex shaft and the tubing, worked like a charm the S bent needed coming out of the thru hull tube and into the strut went off with no issues NO DENTS ,NO DINGS & NO KINKS and the flex shaft an heat shrink tubing all slide out of the brass tube LIKE BUTTER.

ITS HELL TO GET OLD AND FORGET ALL THE LITTLE TRICKS U USED 20 years ago LMAO

IMG_1264.JPG

IMG_1263.JPG

[Tom G]

Front Ram wings ,Rear wing and Canard mock-up completed.

IMG_1265.JPG IMG_1267.JPG

Made a design change from the nitro boats installation
Instead or a just a¼ inch elongated slot in the trim brackets.

I’ve added 3 brass inserts in the sponson & vertical stabilizer side plates in addition to the 1/4 elongated slot in the trim brackets to increase the available amount of canard and rear wing adjustment. ( unused holes will be filled with 4-40 stainless set screws when not in use)

IMG_1270.JPGIMG_1271.JPG

Now on to mocking up the Cowl , exhaust shroud ,and turbine tray

[Beaux]

Looking good.

[Tom G]

Installed the 2 under deck cooling water and discharge lines.
IMG_1291.JPGIMG_1292.JPGIMG_1297.JPG


Mocking up and fitted the Cowl & Cowl latches, exhaust shroud, and turbine tray close to being done. I just need to clean up and round off of some corners.
IMG_1288.JPGIMG_1289.JPG


Paint the Driver and Cockpit then I can install the cockpit floor pan and windshield in the cowling.

Then it’s on to the much hated body & fender work and paint.