1/10th 8255 SCALE BUILD - U-100 MISS ROCK

[T.S.Davis]

There is another Alro outlet store on Groesbeck south of I696

Did not know that. Wonder if Metal Mart on Dequindre would have a scrap shelf of sorts.

I've used aluminum chunks for years but mine are small. Those are sweet.

[longballlumber]

Did not know that. Wonder if Metal Mart on Dequindre would have a scrap shelf of sorts.

I've used aluminum chunks for years but mine are small. Those are sweet.

"Ball's Bags" work really good for non flat surfaces, but a PIA if they break! Need a better mouse trap.

[T.S.Davis]

bahaha Didn't want to say I broke Mike's "Ball Bag" but I did. Steel shot went everywhere. Wait........."Ball's Bags" are made of steel? Yes. Yes they are.

The steel shot are great for other things though. I cut the finger off of a nitrile glove and filled it with shot to make very exact weights to use as ballast. Need 3oz somewhere? Make one. I double up the glove layers.

[T.S.Davis]

Now that I think about it........why not put the shot into nitrile gloves instead of latex balloons? Could work.

[Speed810]

That's a great idea Terry!! Sure a lot better than trying to put a bolt someplace..LOL

[Todd Fleury]

Use dive weights, they use lead shot. Also, you can buy them in any weight you need.

[T.S.Davis]

Not sure why I didn't think of it before. Just put the steel shot I already have in a sock. Tie a knot. Done.

[CraigP]

I did this with my mono. Fishing weights! They are taped to Velcro and applied in the boat. You can fine tune by snatching it out of there, add/subtract as you need.

[Speed810]

Morning all... Sorry haven't posted lately on the 10th scale build. You haven't missed anything....I been working on buddies 1/10th scale for the past few weeks. I'll be getting back to mine hopefully this week.

Had a question for you expert sealing and finishing folks.... Has anyone tried using the JD Total Boat penetrating epoxy system?
I am aware of the CPES system and seen some posts on that. Seems like it works really well. This appears to be the same type of system other than its a 2:1 mixing and its a bit less money. That CPES system is expensive, but I guess right on par with West Systems.

I have used West Systems for the past 5 years trying different thinning processes and just want to try something else where I can get away from all the clogging that takes place when sanding the hulls down. I have read some could reviews of guys using the Total Boat system on full size wood dingy type projects with very good results and hardly any sanding at all. They are usually mixing 50% acetone which makes it flash off and cure much quicker.

Appreciate any input you may have on this or different systems your using.

Thanks

[Navherc130]

Maybe I missed it above. What class does this boat (1/10) run that is "stupid fun, all boats are so close!" I wanna try!!!! Thanks forum members....

[T.S.Davis]

Just that. 10th scale. It's not run everywhere. I'm not sure any clubs on the east coast are doing it.

[Navherc130]

Copy all. Thanks. I know district 1 does not run those. If you do,I think you have to run as p sport or q sport depending on length??? Still learning.

[T.S.Davis]

It would be tough. We run the opposite way with our tenth scales. The ML boats are cut to turn left. If he cut one to turn right it would be subject the length limits for P. If it crested 34" it would become Q.

[Navherc130]

My Atlas is cut with centerline mounting and equal dimensions starboard and port. Think it makes Q. 34.5" tip to tail.

[cybercrxt]

I saw some questions in here I want to address...Left turning vs Right turning 1/10th hulls...My 1/10th scale kits are offered in both clockwise, and counter clockwise versions, which flip the frames so you can build it in either turning direction you need.

Next, addressing the quarter round on the bottom of the hull. I saw where Terry doesn't feel it really does anything, other than make the bottom look bad, lol. Nothing could be further from the truth. With that being said, I want to discuss a project I did with Don Ferrette years ago, which started all of this quarter round air dam being incorporated into many of my kits. I get a lot of people who feel they know better, and delete the air damn, or publicly say it does nothing. I love ya Terry, but you are wrong if you feel it doesn't work the way I intended it. Don set out several years ago, to break the 1/8th scale hydroplane FE SAW record which at the time, was in the 75mph range if I remember. Well, Don started testing, using the air damn technique, and he found his hull, which ultimately went 100mph with 10s and a 1527 Neu, would blow off in the 80mph range..So he added the air damn very close to the front of the bow block...and the hull stayed on the water and has never blown off during his 100mph runs. Fast forward the following year. Scott Liddycoat wanted to set a new 1/8th scale Nitro record, using basically the same hull as Don used for his FE record...The only difference, he had his quarter round about 4" back from the bow...and as fate would have it...he blew off in the 80mph range...the following trials, he came back, quarter round was moved to the front like Don's...His only hull change..and as you can see in the IMPBA record book, he posted a 93mph record. So Let me tell you, the quarter round works, it may be more subtle on a sport hydro, as I am able to make other aerodynamic features more correct for hi speed running, taking some pressure off the influence the bottom of the hull creates...but in the scale hydro world, you cannot change those curved deck features..The boat has to look scale...the only thing I can do, is mod sponsons, and center section bottoms...Having some features like this are important. Don has also run the 171 extreme 1/8th scale Elam kit in the 75mph range in heat trim, and he swears the quarter round bottom has made a difference. ML Boatworks works with many many top racers in the world, and has had those guys share a lot of secrets for the better of the hobby, and the chose me to do these because I listened. Believe in them, they are not just fancy hype! Sorry to rant, but I see a lot of people tell the mass public the things I do don't really do anything, and they are wrong.


Oh, and it was mentioned that Distance is the only thing that changes airflow speed...That is wrong. Diffusing the air with the air dam changes the time the air travels under the hull. It diffuses, rolls the air flow, slowing down how long it takes for the air to travel under the hull..That changes how long the bottom airflow vs. the top airflow take to travel. If that bottom time is longer than the top..guess what, you have a reverse airplane wing without the simple physics you normally see..You have to think outside the box!!