Stiletto Setup Feedback - Post Your Setups here, guys!

[JimClark]

[GP73]

Very nice pics, I ran tonight with a Prather S225, I also moved the outboard higher a bit and gave it neutral angle. The battery was all the way down, touching the ESC tray.

CG is around 7" 3/4, bottom of the prop shaft (not the stub, the actual prop shaft) is 1 mm below the sponson and it's straight with the "setup board".

Maybe I'm just getting better at driving it but it felt a little easier to drive, still flipped on the first battery though.

Talking about setup boards, I'm just using the counter now since looks pretty straight to me, but I'd like to make one and I wouldn't mind some pictures of yours and some tips?

[vtomanov]

I hope to put the photos of my mod here soon. Just a text response that fightercat had a great idea to put a waterproof servo in the back to eliminate the cables over the battery tray. If Darin reads this, what would he think about removing the front electronic bay? The battery box is huge and everything should fit perfect. Is that legal to mod the boat that much if you racing?

[Darin Jordan]

The battery box is huge and everything should fit perfect. Is that legal to mod the boat that much if you racing?

Funny you should mention that... there are some things that are done to make a production boat that don't necessarily need to be done for a "race" boat...

I have a Stiletto that I'm going to remove the entire battery tray and radio box from, and make my own wooden radio box for, to see if I can reduce the weight a bit. While I would prefer to keep the servo in the back, I still feel that the battery needs to be able to be moved to the transom in order to get balance, and the battery is much heavier than the servo, so I'll deal with the cables.

I am also planning on trying the hull with a Lawless lower-unit. The stock lower is cool, and functions great, but is heavy. I want to see if I can get the hull down under 6lbs in RTR trim. Doing something different with the cowling may be required as well. It's TOTALLY cool looking, but is pretty heavy glass. Maybe I'll use one as a plug and make a mold of it, so I can reproduce them in carbon...

[awall]

Keep em coming guys. I'll post when I get mine on the water.

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[jamespl]

Darin what motor(s) are you running or have been running? Any info on motor upgrades would be helpful. Thanks

[vtomanov]

Pretty Stiletto Rear Drive Unit

Here's the official (or not) Mercury (or not) Stiletto PRo Boat Outdrive setup. Upgraded to a 2600KV motor, 5S - 6S, Seaking 180 ESC. I'm sure not legal to race. 20 hours on rear drive sanding paint and clear coat. Darins mod stuffing tube with rear oiler. From rear of drive you see 2 water outlets. The left one is actually the oiler, I use the Proboat grease gun to pressure grease down the rear into the stuffing tube. The right outlet and top outlet are both water outlets but only one is used depending on what motor i'm running. The top water outlet is best to see the water shooting out the top as the boat runs by so i like that one better if i can use it. The motor is too tall to house inside the top shroud but i like the look of the shroud so I cut a hole in the top to keep it on the boat.IMG_0969.jpgIMG_0970.jpgIMG_0971.jpgIMG_0972.jpg

Darin to keep this boat legal and to answer the above question about what motor would you use. If you were to race the boat what class whould it be under or sport or scale class? and do you have to use a factory motor like the UL1 or Proboat to race?

My 2600 is more to have fun and see how far i can push the boat, i'm guessing you would have to run a lower KV motor and stick with a 2 blade wouldn't you not?

Next update I'll show you the waterproof server mounted in front of the outboard to eliminate teh drive cables and finally possibly removing the radio box in front of the battery tray to reduce weight and increase the balance of the boat. Darin recomends the battery as far back as possible and the drive as low as possible to get the boat to track striaght around turns without flipping. Correct me if I'm wrong Darin.

[Griff]

Darrin if you were to make a lighter cowling would you be making a few to sell? if so I would be interested in buying one :)

Tom

[Griff]

fitted an Aquacraft UL-1 motor in my Stiletto and with the prather 220 prop I really noticed the difference, water was choppy, but was great fun skipping over the ripples, short vid, bad quality, cheap camera, but you can get an idea of what it was going like.

[rolling thunder]

what motor height,angle,and prop to use with stock motor and esc and where are the measurements taken from props back cut etc and speeds if known (4s 5000mah) thanks in advance

[vtomanov]

Stiletto Setup

I'm working on a few videos to explain the setup for a stiletto I'll post the link here soon. Some of the basics are:
1. Drop the motor on the mount to the bottom or a few mil's from bottom. You want the prop digging to help turn without spining out.
2. Angle of the motor all depends on the weight and placement of your batteries. If your running 2-2S flat on the bottom of the tray, I found running the motor with a little tilt down (deeper) to get the nose down is safe to get comfortable with steering.

You want about 8 inches of CG for this boat measured from the back of the fiberglass. Because of the heavy stern drive you may see the boat bouncing too much, either put both batteries on top of each other at the front of the tray, or simply tilt the motor down 1-2 mils to get it to stop bouncing. Basically your bringing the nose down so the back 1/3 - 1/2 of the hull is riding in the water. This is a mild setup for stabilty so you have some fun.

I tried to follow many of the guys setups here but it seems the weight of each hulls vary and it either spun out or bounced like crazy if the motor was angled up like I've heard some people use. No clue how they got it tamed. Better just keep the motor low and angled down a little is a good starting point. It will run low to the water, straight and smooth, but if your running close to 1/2 of the hull in the water tilt the motor up (toward the sky) to get it close to 1/3 for the fastest speeds. When it just starts to bob you know your close to top speed and close to the limit, that's when you either back off or push it and ride the wave hoping not to do the Stiletto submarine dance! (check you tube you'll see the boat go under water when it hit a wave! Real fun!)

[rolling thunder]

thanks for the info i dropped the motor about 2.5mm from bottom and angled it up not sure of the measurement i can check though and at full speed i have about 3-4 inches of the boat in the water with the battery all the way back it is a little touchy in the corners though will try with battery all the way forward before i start messing with the angle what would be a good prop to start with iam leaning towards a 3 blade to help with corner blow outs unless some one has a better set up

[vtomanov]

I found I had to bring the nose down by tilting the motor down, or like you said put the 2 batteries at the front of the tray. The 3 blade is definitely the way to go for controllability and power transfer. I tried 6s on the 2 blade and it was so stupid to drive, no turning, torque twisting so it was riding on one sponson and jumping out of control on every little bump. Dialed down to 5S with 3 blade, same with 4S, and acceleration was instant, steering improved leeps and bounds. Huge difference. For the stock controller X438-3 or X440-3 if your temps are not to high. Get a cheap chinease temp gun from eBay and zap the ESC after each run to make sure the beast isn't much over 120 degrees. The bad thing about the x438 and 440 is they have a tongue. I detongued the 440 and it runs great because there is less prop, less weight but good pitch and diameter. If you don't want to play with props try the grimacer AQUB9760 40 mil 3 blade it has a very small tongue and good pitch. This would be the biggest prop for the boat to enhance traction. Prather also has the 220 but again you would want to detongue. Hopefully this helps. If your spinning out or bouncing more than 2 times after a wave bring the nose down until it starts cutting the wave. I haven't taken mine out this year yet, your makin me itch! have fun.

[GixerGuy1978]

My stiletto seems to be doing good, UL1 power and X440/3 detongued, running the motor height all the way up and Nano-tech 4cell 5000mAh pack as far back as you can put it by removing the speed control tray.

updated vid link

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WwmOLJSaLE4

[brushlessfreak]

I decided to chop off the top of outboard cover and fit in a leopard 4074 2000kv with a seaking 180 on 5s and she hauls,runs beautifully in a strait line .i am still trying to find the sweet spot for motor height and prop angle as i am getting spin outs and flips in turns,it bounces a lot while turning too.i will say darins stuffing tube/oiler mod is genius as i have not broken a flex since the mod even with the 4074 in there i am however using hyperformance flex cables.i feel this boat has a lot of potential,i just need to dial it in,any advice would be great,oh also using s/b 642 prop.thanks fellas